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1958 Dodge Regent #2498310
05/20/18 05:36 PM
05/20/18 05:36 PM
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY Offline OP
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A good friend of mine selling a 58 Dodge Regent.... we made a deal and now I have another project on my hands soon I guess... lol
Canadian car, it's a Dodge front end and Plymouth dash and rear. The bodywork was all done and painted but it has blisters so needs to be stripped. He's got all the trim, bumpers etc and the seats are all there and the upholstery is even good. Has good door panels with a little bit of warping on back panels
Floors are rotten and need to be replaced but he already did inner and outer sills and left a ledge to attach to....
Glass is all good. No engine and trans.
Hmmmmmm

Regent1.jpgRegent2.jpgRegent3.jpg

CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498328
05/20/18 06:26 PM
05/20/18 06:26 PM
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It was a flathead 6 car..... no flathead going back in though....
Not sure if I should swap spindles and try to adapt 70's van mounts on the frame and install a 360 I have..... or Dakota frame splice or or or....?


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498447
05/20/18 11:50 PM
05/20/18 11:50 PM
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85086
moparpollack Offline
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Finish the coupe!!!!! runaway boogie shruggy

grin


56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498461
05/21/18 12:31 AM
05/21/18 12:31 AM
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Freeport IL USA
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My son is dealing with an original frame and suspension on a 57 Dodge wagon. If power steering is, or will be in play, do a Dakota clip. The original power steering is an unusual system that only fits a few years, and has little road feel. If you car has manual steering and you want to add power, you will have to deal with the original setup.

This day and age, finding a good Dakota donor that can still be converted to 5 bolt wheels (88-96) is getting tough, and depending on your motor choice, you really have to watch the motor height for hood clearance.

Fortunately, there is a lot of documentation right here concerning these cars. Read up, it can get pretty complex. Gene

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: moparpollack] #2498515
05/21/18 04:26 AM
05/21/18 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted By moparpollack
Finish the coupe!!!!! runaway boogie shruggy

grin


Ha! I actually love that answer!!
Every Thursday after work, floors almost finished..... smile


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2498516
05/21/18 04:29 AM
05/21/18 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted By poorboy
My son is dealing with an original frame and suspension on a 57 Dodge wagon. If power steering is, or will be in play, do a Dakota clip. The original power steering is an unusual system that only fits a few years, and has little road feel. If you car has manual steering and you want to add power, you will have to deal with the original setup.

This day and age, finding a good Dakota donor that can still be converted to 5 bolt wheels (88-96) is getting tough, and depending on your motor choice, you really have to watch the motor height for hood clearance.

Fortunately, there is a lot of documentation right here concerning these cars. Read up, it can get pretty complex. Gene


Strangely I've been collecting Dakotas..... lol I have a few sets of brand new front 5 lug rotor/hubs too.....
Thanks Gene!


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498549
05/21/18 10:21 AM
05/21/18 10:21 AM
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Mike P Offline
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Neat project, (love the color).


If interested I do have a spare pair of original V8 57-58 Dodge and Plymouth frame mounts. The round motor mounts the V8 cars used are still available, but the “cans” that go on the motor can be hard to find and are different than between the Poly/Hemi motors and the B/RB engines.


SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA by M Patterson, on Flickr


If using the original frame/suspension, you will need a 57-58 center sump pan and pickup is you use a Poly/first gen Hemi.




If you go B/RB and can’t find an early passenger car pan, a later B/RB pan will work if going the Big Block route, but it may need to be notched to clear the front crossmember.


I’ve done front disc brake conversions a couple of different ways on the 57-58s. 70’s A body Disc brakes were a popular swap 15 years ago (before their were kits using the original spindles). The spindles bolt on, but the tie rods and sleeves need to be shortened and the steering stop modified. I have also used late 70s C body brakes but that is even more work and requires modification to the spindles. I’m using an old AAJ disc brake conversion on my 57 Plymouth’s original spindles and am happy with it. I not sure if AAJ is still in business, but I think Scare Bird has a similar kit.


“…….If power steering is, or will be in play, do a Dakota clip……”

I absolutely agree with poorboy. If I was just starting to build my 57 Plymouth (or the old 440 powered 57 Coronet I used to have) now it would definitely be getting a later modle front frame clip.


The original steering boxes, both manual and especially power boxes suck on these cars. The way the box mounts and oil pan/torsion bar clearance issues make adapting something else (rack and pinion/modern steering box) very difficult is not impossible. I’m currently trying to adapt a 605 Saginaw box into my 57 Plymouth and if it is even possible, it’s going to be a lot of work.

In addition to the steering box issues, a couple of other shortcomings include:

The upper control arms are a 57-58 only item. They use very small control arm bushings that don’t like heavy engines (first gen Hemis or B/RB motor). Usually the bushings only last about 40-50K miles and are not pleasant to replace. They are also currently getting a little harder to find…..cost can run anywhere between $20 to$50 each (and you need 4).

The drag link is also a wear item due to having joints on the outer ends. You can still find these rebuilt, but they are not real cheap.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2498714
05/21/18 06:26 PM
05/21/18 06:26 PM
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British Columbia, Canada
Old Ray Offline
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Originally Posted By poorboy
you really have to watch the motor height for hood clearance.


Gene is bang on about this, it sits high. I did the Dakota subframe swap last week and reinstalled the stock Dakota engine this weekend. Because the engine sits at the Dakota height (coil springs held with threaded rod) and where you have set the ride height of the original frame determines how much hood clearance. Looked scary so garbed the tape measure, should be just OK, but this is for a ‘56 and I think the ‘57 and up have lower hood clearance.

It was wishful thinking on my part, partly caused by something I read on the net, that the original Dakota engine location would work, NOT SO, needs to be 6 inches further back. Engine back out and mount relocating plates under construction today mad

,

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: Mike P] #2498773
05/21/18 08:51 PM
05/21/18 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted By Mike P

Neat project, (love the color).


If interested I do have a spare pair of original V8 57-58 Dodge and Plymouth frame mounts. The round motor mounts the V8 cars used are still available, but the “cans” that go on the motor can be hard to find and are different than between the Poly/Hemi motors and the B/RB engines.


SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA by M Patterson, on Flickr


If using the original frame/suspension, you will need a 57-58 center sump pan and pickup is you use a Poly/first gen Hemi.




If you go B/RB and can’t find an early passenger car pan, a later B/RB pan will work if going the Big Block route, but it may need to be notched to clear the front crossmember.


I’ve done front disc brake conversions a couple of different ways on the 57-58s. 70’s A body Disc brakes were a popular swap 15 years ago (before their were kits using the original spindles). The spindles bolt on, but the tie rods and sleeves need to be shortened and the steering stop modified. I have also used late 70s C body brakes but that is even more work and requires modification to the spindles. I’m using an old AAJ disc brake conversion on my 57 Plymouth’s original spindles and am happy with it. I not sure if AAJ is still in business, but I think Scare Bird has a similar kit.


“…….If power steering is, or will be in play, do a Dakota clip……”

I absolutely agree with poorboy. If I was just starting to build my 57 Plymouth (or the old 440 powered 57 Coronet I used to have) now it would definitely be getting a later modle front frame clip.


The original steering boxes, both manual and especially power boxes suck on these cars. The way the box mounts and oil pan/torsion bar clearance issues make adapting something else (rack and pinion/modern steering box) very difficult is not impossible. I’m currently trying to adapt a 605 Saginaw box into my 57 Plymouth and if it is even possible, it’s going to be a lot of work.

In addition to the steering box issues, a couple of other shortcomings include:

The upper control arms are a 57-58 only item. They use very small control arm bushings that don’t like heavy engines (first gen Hemis or B/RB motor). Usually the bushings only last about 40-50K miles and are not pleasant to replace. They are also currently getting a little harder to find…..cost can run anywhere between $20 to$50 each (and you need 4).

The drag link is also a wear item due to having joints on the outer ends. You can still find these rebuilt, but they are not real cheap.


Not sure which way it will go yet.... if at all lol I thin the original style might worry me because my blandest small block is a healthy hydraulic roller 360. I would probably go up from there as far as power goes and not sure I trust the original style mounts?
Pans and engine location doesn't bother me.
I might upgrade to a Dakota or FMJ clip but not sure yet.... I'll look at the car closely before I even think about it.


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498860
05/21/18 11:54 PM
05/21/18 11:54 PM
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I think an FMJ clip would be and absolute nightmare on one of these cars. The track width would be petty wide, and you would have to cut everything ahead of the firewall off. At that point, you might as well do a Dakota clip and get a more modern suspension.

Old Ray,
When I moved the motor & trans back on the Dakota frame in my coupe, I bolted in a 1/4" thick plate to the frame (on each side) where the original motor mount bracket bolted to, and then drilled holes and bolted the motor mount brackets to the 1/4" plate. For the trans mount, I welded in a piece of 1/4" thick angle iron to both sides of the frame behind where the original trans crossmember bolted to the frame. I maintained the same angle the original cross member was bolted on at. Then I drilled a couple holes in each angle and bolted the trans crossmember to the angle iron. Its been working for over 40,000 miles. Gene

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2498882
05/22/18 12:56 AM
05/22/18 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted By poorboy
Old Ray,When I moved the motor & trans back on the Dakota frame in my coupe, I bolted in a 1/4" thick plate to the frame (on each side) where the original motor mount bracket bolted to, and then drilled holes and bolted the motor mount brackets to the 1/4" plate.


Well then I must be doing the right thing because that is exactly what I am doing. Mostly by accident, the only plate I had that was big enough was some 1/4 inch. I did the pass side this morning, drivers side tomorrow, did you gusset or put any extra reinforcement on, especially on the drivers side? There is one extra threaded hole on the drivers side that I will use as well. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2498921
05/22/18 04:32 AM
05/22/18 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted By poorboy
I think an FMJ clip would be and absolute nightmare on one of these cars. The track width would be petty wide, and you would have to cut everything ahead of the firewall off. At that point, you might as well do a Dakota clip and get a more modern suspension.

Gene

I went to look at a 1958 Plymouth for sale. It had a Fifth Ave clip. Guy said it worked absolutely awesome and he had done a half dozen of them with the FMJ front crossmember, said it was THE way to go. The guy who did it had tried Dakotas under these cars. He said the FMJ conversion was much preferred ...?


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2498986
05/22/18 11:15 AM
05/22/18 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted By CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Guy said it worked absolutely awesome and he had done a half dozen of them with the FMJ front crossmember, said it was THE way to go. The guy who did it had tried Dakotas under these cars. He said the FMJ conversion was much preferred ...?


.....if it's that great why is it for sale ? confused

Last edited by Old Ray; 05/22/18 11:16 AM.
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: Old Ray] #2499201
05/22/18 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted By Old Ray
Originally Posted By CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Guy said it worked absolutely awesome and he had done a half dozen of them with the FMJ front crossmember, said it was THE way to go. The guy who did it had tried Dakotas under these cars. He said the FMJ conversion was much preferred ...?


.....if it's that great why is it for sale ? confused


???

It was an unfinished car, no engine and trans. He said the fifth or sixth car he had done with the FMJ clip. He thought the best swap as far as he was concerned.

Why was he selling it? Never asked. You mean it's not good and he was lying because he was selling it or....?

He had a 1957/1958 Plymouth in Abbotsford. It was on Kijjiji for a month or so....


CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: Old Ray] #2499235
05/22/18 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted By Old Ray
Originally Posted By poorboy
Old Ray,When I moved the motor & trans back on the Dakota frame in my coupe, I bolted in a 1/4" thick plate to the frame (on each side) where the original motor mount bracket bolted to, and then drilled holes and bolted the motor mount brackets to the 1/4" plate.


Well then I must be doing the right thing because that is exactly what I am doing. Mostly by accident, the only plate I had that was big enough was some 1/4 inch. I did the pass side this morning, drivers side tomorrow, did you gusset or put any extra reinforcement on, especially on the drivers side? There is one extra threaded hole on the drivers side that I will use as well. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.


Actually, I will have to get under the car and look. I believe I may have added a little extra support on the driver side, but its been 6 years since I did it.

The bottom line is, if you think it should have extra bracing there, you need to add it. That sort of things tends to give a guy more confidence, and that often results in driving the car more. More driving adds to the pleasure of owing an old car/truck, and that is why we do this in the first place. Gene

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2499238
05/22/18 10:36 PM
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CrAzYMoPaRGuy, I suppose there may be advantages in cutting everything off the front and building mostly new. It can't be much worse dealing with the obsolete FMJ crossmember then its getting to be dealing with the 25+ year old 1st gen Dakota.

I was surprised how few choices of some parts (like brake pads) were available for the 5 bolt Dakotas a few weeks ago, when I bought the stuff for my new project. Gene

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2499269
05/22/18 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted By poorboy
CrAzYMoPaRGuy, I suppose there may be advantages in cutting everything off the front and building mostly new. It can't be much worse dealing with the obsolete FMJ crossmember then its getting to be dealing with the 25+ year old 1st gen Dakota.

I was surprised how few choices of some parts (like brake pads) were available for the 5 bolt Dakotas a few weeks ago, when I bought the stuff for my new project. Gene


I have a 1995 Dakota for a donor chassis. I just bought brand new 5 bolt hubs and rotors for it without any problem. Don't know which way I'm going but parts where I am seem pretty easy to find honestly


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Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY] #2499751
05/23/18 11:42 PM
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Yea, I bought hubs, bearings, and rotors too. What surprised me was there was only one choice for brake pads, but that might have just been just at Orielly's, where I bought the other stuff from that had the limited pad choice. Gene

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2503242
06/01/18 04:28 PM
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The only way the FMJ clip is better is because it is EASY. Bolt off, bolt on.
BUT,
It has basic geometry issues that cannot be remedied. It was designed during the depths of Mopar's lowest cycle. Cheap and crappy ruled the day, like the first Aspens and Volares proved. Bump steer is what I mostly remember. For every successful FMJ swap there is one like my friend's Ford pickup that took major rework before it was safe to drive at highway speeds.

The Dak front end has much better geometry and will give a better result.

R.

Re: 1958 Dodge Regent [Re: poorboy] #2503245
06/01/18 04:32 PM
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1987,dakota,3.9l+239cid+v6,1087343,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

Brake pads by the cartload.

R.

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