Hey gang..
I have a set of 4 15x7 steel wheels and before I go through the process of putting new tires on them, I want to make sure they are true.. Would a simple case of throwing them on a tire balance machine give me a good indication on this? I have one wheel on my Daytona that I know I'll eventually have to replace. So, when I get these 15x7 steelies ready for the eventual '70 Road Runner I'm getting, I want them to be right...

Cheers,
Troy

Easer than carrying them to town, jack the car up, install wheel, and put it in gear.

Or put them on the front and spin it by hand. It will not be perfect but then you can let the dial indicator be the judge.

FSM for tire AND wheel combo states .105 radial, and .080 lateral runout max. depending on the source, i have seen from .025-.080 runout on the wheels to be acceptable. new stuff states .010-.020 maximum allowable. the steel wheels i have modified [widened/narrowed, replace/change centers] usually come in at around .010-.035 runout, and balance out perfectly with no vibrations felt at any speed. i have also seen new tires mounted on good wheels with over 1/4" of runout balance out good on a spin balancer, and nothing felt going down the road. put the wheel on the front [if disc brake equipped, remove the caliper and suspend out of the way] and spin it around. pay attention to the bead seat area only. the outer edges are not very true to begin with, due to the stamping process. you will quickly see if the wheel is bent beyond being usable. if the radial runout [up and down] is useable [.035 or so - 1/32"], and the lateral [side to side] is off a bunch, you can use a very large crescent wrench or a dedicated "lip truing" tool to easily get the flange into position. it doesn't take much effort for this. hopefully, your wheels are good to go as is.