Re: Manufactures
[Re: DusterKid]
#2483784
04/16/18 07:08 PM
04/16/18 07:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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I wouldn't touch an eagle, I don't do many BBs so no 440 source, the other 3 are all about the same.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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Re: Manufactures
[Re: DusterKid]
#2483792
04/16/18 07:29 PM
04/16/18 07:29 PM
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457 Washington
madscientist
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
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Every one you listed probably come out of the very same factory with a different name on them.
Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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Re: Manufactures
[Re: dvw]
#2483931
04/16/18 10:59 PM
04/16/18 10:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552
Rittman Ohio
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When I was building my 493 I had the opportunity to look at all those brands of rods and a few cranks side by side when I made my decision. The best looking rods were the K1's so I chose them because the first 4 out of the box were identical. I looked at the cranks and if you didn't label them I couldn't tell the difference I ended up going with the Eagle because it had been cut 10-10 and the radius was much cleaner than the others after a pro crank shop had cleaned it up. In all fairness I didn't compare an "out of the box" Eagle crank to the others I just didn't want to buy a "kit" online so I ended up with an Eagle crank,K1 rods,and Wiseco pistons and it runs solid for almost 7 years now. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: Manufactures
[Re: DusterKid]
#2484084
04/17/18 10:16 AM
04/17/18 10:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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IMO, they are all decent pieces IF the finish machining is good. Most all the cheaper stuff needs machining to be useable out of the box. People don't want to hear that their brand new $800 crank needs to be turned before it can be used, or that the rods need to be resized b/c the caps are cut wrong, but that's how it is. The guy that did my cranks always says he's never seen an Eagle crank that didn't need to be turned. He is anal as hell, so he's probably way more picky than most, but he's one of the best. DEI and RCR used to send him pallets of cranks to turn for their NASCAR cup engines. I say "used to" only b/c he's retired now.
I have never used anything from 440source, so I can't comment on them, but have used all the others. I agree w/ Mr Pbody, your list has them in the order I'd put them in.
I have a K1 crank and a set of Molnar rods for a 540" hemi in the shop that needed no extra machining when new to be useable. I used some SCAT rotating assemblies for some SB Chevy circle track engines I built several years ago that just needed balancing. Callies Comp Star is another reasonably priced line of cranks and rods that are good at this level.
After an Eagle crank has been corrected, it is a good piece. We ran an Eagle crank and rods for YEARS in a 434" SB Chevy running 6.0 index classes. Put a LOT of passes on that thing w/ no issues...making a lil north of 700 hp.
FWIW...my thinking is 750-800 hp or less, the cheaper stuff is all good as long as you check everything and correct what's out of line. Above that power level and you need to get the expensive stuff.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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