I have a Wilwood rear brake setup [140-7144-DR] that requires the use of green bearings on my 8-3/4".

I have an issue that I have isolated to the rear axle and believe I have excessive axial play in the rear bearings. Do you have any suggestions on how I could add more preload to the green bearings?

The number 2 retainers holds the snap ring in place, then once you start driving, the splines will lock/bind up and hold...just like a Ford 9”.

The design of the Wilwood kit sucks, but it works OK. Also, either you need to remove the center button/thrust slug from the differential...or, what I did, was have a precision grinding shop take off 1/16” off the end of each axle, still leaving a little chamfer.

But, if you have some free play, you will be ok.

Mark

The thrust block was removed from the differential upon installation.

The "free play" is likely what is causing my pad knockback issue upon cornering. I need to mitigate that.

With green bearings you'll only get play at the axles if the bearings are worn. The bearing itself is held in place by the snapring.

Do you have a residual valve installed in/near the MC for the rear brake line?

If the retaining plate [#2] from Wilwood is not up against the bearing well, couldn't the bearing move within the housing?

I do not have a residual valve in but was planning on putting one in the rear of the car, near the rubber line fitting. I have a 10# valve on the shelf.

Imho, 10# will be too much, I wouldn't use any rpv with disc brakes.

As stated the green bearings shouldn't have any play.

It's likely that they are sliding in the housing, no bueno they will wear the housing. Maybe see about some shims to sandwich the snap ring between the housing and retainer. Maybe a spacer sleeve to fit in the housing bore to hold the bearing against the retainer?