I have another pair of front segments in the attic i could just drill another hole in as the hole in them is too far forward. The best option is just to drill the perches, way easier and less work.

If you move the axle back an inch you'll have other problems such as shock mounts, clearance with fuel tank, driveshaft length and brake hose length. Double check all of those things before you get too far into the project.

I made my own shock plates to work with CalTracs. It isn't easy to fabricate all of this stuff in a normal garage so be careful of how big the can of worms is that you are opening.

Absolutely, dont want to make this too difficult. I will check everything before i start, but 1/2" may be all i need and shouldnt cause any other issues.

I dont know many who hasnt replaced the upper shock mount because the oem setup is weak and fails with time. A easy adjustment if needed.

The as delivered calvert shocks are big diameter truck shocks where ones like the QA1-a are easily 1/3 less in diameter. Not sure what Dave is using.

To me the only real question is the driveshaft engagement but the way most of us measure for a new shaft is regularly much longer then needed at least if going to the rear.

Yes check everything but overall your not building the next shuttle your just building your car. Daves a smart guy and what hes trying to do isnt rocket science.

Andy, why did you have to make your own lower plates or did you make a copy of the whole calvert system? They are nice looking parts.

Beat the heck out of the front wheel well for clearance, every Mopar stocker does that to get the 30" tire to fit.

Not the inner thats the problem. Its the outer wheel well lip. 3/4" of clearance and i'm getting 1" taller tires. I think tire would look better centered in the opening as well.

You will be able to see if the axle hits the chock.I have QA-1 shocks now.

I also moved the top bar back 1"+

Ill be sure to check that, but last time i was under there i didnt see any possible issues.

Sir, please step away from the BFH

Should have some time to get under there this friday and get it part and maybe finished if i can drill the perches. Using the cal vert perch not sure what they look like on the bottom.

Didn't really mean the inner, just a phrase. The lip is what I meant, moved mine 1-1/2 " foward at the rocker, on a smooth arc from the top, cut it out, slice it down, weld back. I used the rear lip of an old set of front fenders.

If you go ahead and drill the plate you may want to put a puck in the old hole to help keep the pin centered

Yeah. Been rethinking that. Think ill just drill new holes in the extra pair of front segments. Maybe i can sell the ones on the car now.

Measured everything up to get pinion angle. Looks like i have 1* pinion angle according to the spicer calculator. http://spicerparts.com/calculators/driveline-operating-angle-calculator
I only have a couple drill bits that will drill thru the springs. The larger bits will not. I'll have to take them to the machine shop to get them finished. The front segments on the car have a 1.5" arch and the ones replacing them have a 2" arch, so will the 2" arch spring set the ride height higher?

I would think it would raise it some [1/4"] but the pinion may only gain 1 or 2* nose down.

I have a 6* shims going in. Looks like i have plenty of room.

You got it drilled and in?cool!

Those pics are before i started. I was only able to drill up to 1/4", after that drills would not cut. Gonna go look for some different drill bits tomorrow. I'm stopped for now. I pulled these springs out not paying attention to what spring came from what side. mixed up now. are they right and left side specific?

If i could have got the springs drilled, I would be done right now and moving on to the engine.