Just an opinion like many but if you have a good running car you can drive as it seems you can with the money youd throw at it to still be slow in the big picture even older new style challengers are cheap and the performance options are endless.

But to your current question, wow 3.23 and BFG tires are the perfect smokem combo, when they start to spin they just keep spinning unless you back all the way off.

Knowing now your running a 3.23 gear id say you might be in the high 14 low 15 area, but it sounds like a car you can enjoy alot by just driving it unlike many of us here.

I don’t know guys, this seems like a 440-6+ build. Yeah it’s a mild cam but still better than a stock cam by quite abit. Yeah it might run low 15’s but you’d have to do everything wrong. Potential to run well into the 12’s.

Back in 1975-6, I can't remember for sure but my 1969 440 six pack with SS spring, 9" McCreary slicks, 5.13 Dana, 426 wedge street headers with a 3" exhaust snaking through the engine compartment and 24" under the car ran 12.5's. Was a stock eliminator car.

Pure stock 440+6 challenger making some runs....I'm sure there's some tricks done to make them run that good on polyglass tyres.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPbZLu8BgxM

13.50-13.80 @ 102-104mph.

May be able to squeeze a 12.99 with slicks.

Keep the 3.23's if it is a street car!

14.2 @ 100

Dizuster had 65 Belvedere. 3.91, stock 11 3/4" converter, Eddy heads, 484 purple shaft, stock 440 short block, maybe 8.0-1. With 255/60 BFG T/A's it would hook from 1500 rpm everytime. 12.90-13.0 depending on weather. Many different people raced it. All could cut .00x lights. Car was dead on. Best car in real street trim I've ever raced.
Doug

You can give two different people the very same parts and one guy can make it fly like a raped ape and one guy can't make enough power to spin the tires. Its been proven time and time again.

Back when they were new......

Popular Hot Roddjng tested a 71 440-6 Charger Super Bee with 4.10's/auto, it went 14.2@99.

Car Craft tested a 71 440-6 RR, also 4.10's/auto.....they got it to go 13.7@101.

I'd say those are the bench marks to shoot for.

Thank-You...


(Research what Tim Richards did with a lowly '71 GTX...

Why would a mild engine like that have aluminum rods??

A car like that with a typical driver will probably run 14's at the track. I see cars like that all the time at Mopar shows run 14's or 15's. Once in awhile you'll see a car that the owner is willing to beat on harder and they'll run 12's or 13's.

When I was in high school my best friend had a '70 RoadRunner with a 440+6. It was a four speed, Dana 60 car with air grabber. I don't know how fast it was in the quarter mile but we had a lot of fun ripping around town in that. It sounded killer and it pulled hard and it got a lot of attention.

Quit worrying and have fun you can tune it to the 13s if you are lucky Sticky tires are 12s less then sticky are 15s or higher Look at the trap speed that will tell you how much power you are really makingYears ago I ran a 16.2 at over 104mph

Not an apples-to-apples comparison by any means, but...

When I first bought my Challenger with the 440-6 on a stock '70 long block & MP 272/.455" cam, it was slippin' & slidin' to 13.7s at 101 on hard Goodyear 235/60R15s.

I put a set of M&H 275/60-15 bias-plies on spare 8" rims and it dropped to 13.2s at 103 simply due to better traction off the line.

The car had 3.55s and an OEM 2200-stall converter at the time. Too much gear and too much stall with marginal tires will just make it worse.

Headers or not?

Yeah, cheap 1.75", but still better than manifolds.

like everyone says, tires are the biggest problem.
If keeping the tires, switch to 3.23s or 3.55s, still will be hard to launch hard.
your 60 foot times will stink!
And you'd better have a good fuel system, or the top end will suffer.
With practice and a gear change I'd guess low 13s.
with slicks, high 12s should be easy,

Low 15's and mid to low 14's if its right with the right bite.

When I first got my heap running in 1982, I had a pretty mild 440 in it.
-.040 over 440 with flat tops .055 down the hole
-Crower "Monarch" 280H cam(224/224@.050, .460/.460, 110lsa)
-Stock 906's with upgraded springs
-ex manifolds with crimp bent exhaust pipes for a 383(no H pipe)
-Original Torker with a 650dp Holley
-12" converter
-3.23's
-g50-15 bias ply tires

At Sacramento raceway it would run low-14's at mid/hi-90's.
Best ever was like a 14.06....... And it never broke 100mph in that configuration.

I bought an A-12 in the spring of 69, one of the first around.
My buddy was a salesman at a Northeast Oh dealership.

Two other friends had Dodge A-12s, mine was a white RR with a black vinyl top, all 727s.

In pure stock we all ran pretty much the same, this with some re jetting, more timing and a pinion snubber (I know, I know).

At a local track, 13.6s, 106 with the Polyglas.

On mine, I did a multi-angle valve job, prestolite Ign. module, Hooker fenderwell exit headers, 50 cc pump, electric pump, windage tray w/6 qt. pan, more jetting and timing, 42* total on a recurved dual point, short point set for you guys as old as I am who remember that stuff, open headers.

Was able to run a best of 12.80s at 114, still Polyglas.

The trick to traction was easy roll-out and a slow mash.

Wish I didn't drive that wet cold January night in 1971 after a few drinks, my stupidness cost me week in the hospital and a totalled A-12.

Oh well....Joe

Edit.. forgot the SSH 25 Racer Brown hydraulic in the mods
Edit #2 160* thermostat, blocked heat crossover, my memory sucks!!
More, cool can, high vol. oil pump kit, 3/8" fuel line all the way to carbs J10 plugs, this is embaressing!!

It will come down to several key factors. How good are the heads really, is it truly 10.5:1 (pump gas won't work if it is), car weight, quality of your tune, driving skill, and DA on track day. Best- low 13 @ 106, worst 15.0 @ 100.

The cam is pretty small.