loose torque converters (especially with hi-torque engines) and chassis dynos aren't always a good mix. stock rockers can give too much preload on the tappets and I don't think those edelbrock springs are up to snuff for that cam. you probably have a coupe of, if not more, issues to look at.

Are you using the valve springs that came with the heads? I had a problems and after trying so many things I pulled off all the valve spring and had them checked. I had at least 4 that were really weak. You might want to check valve springs and if weak go with a better set recommended for the cam you are running.

It can very well be the springs.. when I dynoed
my engine it had about 6 weak springs.. I changed
them and got my power and rpms back... and I checked
a few before I put the engine together.. but the ones
I checked were OK

His converter isn't too loose. If anything it's too tight.

I just watched a video of monza from street outlaws with his car on a wheel dyno. You can hear it go up on the converter.

High torque and chassis dynos are done all the time. It's not the dynos fault.

I am putting one of those kit together right now. They used a 1.865 ch piston, and a 6.700 rod. I had to take .040 off the block to get to 0 deck. If you are .040 in the hole and have 80+ cc heads your compression could be way off. What was the parts used in your kit? What was your assembled c.h.? Example 10 cc for the deck vol. 8 cc for the pockets 10 cc for the gasket and 84cc for the heads =112cc at tdc. 1035cc swept vol.
1147/112 = 10.24cr. ok still seems down on power. What is the intake close at .050. Could way down on dynamic compression.

Are you shore that you have the cam were it is surpose to be.... it must be of ! A classic mistake is to degree it on the ext lobe ! Just my 2 cent if the cam is made corekt and i hope you sort it out.

That graph/chart shows what valve float looks like on the dyno. IF you are using the Edelbrock springs they are NOT suited to that camshaft. The Comp XE grinds are really aggressive and need a pretty serious spring. I know, I know that they are supposed to be good for 600 lift. Horse puckey. I have a 5 gallon bucket full of them that we only use on really mild stuff (like 480 and under lift). That cam is 564 lift. I would use a Comp 925 with the right retainers and locks. Not a huge fan of the super big hyd cams either for this and other reasons. I would also advise against a cam like this as a single bolt cam either. Comp will grind the same (or any) single bolt cam as a 3 bolt (you just have to order it like that). Hey the Hemi and factory six pack motors are three bolts for a reason. Now please send all the "i have ran single bolts and edelbrock springs for years" posts to someone else. Also of note is what part number lifter are you using? 822-16 or 867-16? It matters. Also stock rockers on this cam profile will most likely lead to pushrods being pushed through the sockets in the rockers in the not so distant future. Pull the valve covers and have a looky loo. Pop one or two springs off and look at the bottom of the retainers and the locks. Are they shiny? Are the locks already showing wear? The eddies do not use a great lock. Upgrade to some 10 degree stuff if you change the springs.
Todd

Either valve springs or a fuel delivery issue.

I had pulled the motor today just to dissect to find the problem. I’m going to send the heads out to have the springs and valves checked. While it’s out I believe I’m going to change the cam to a solid. Any recommendations on a cam? It’s just disheartening to have high expectations from this motor and my wife’s car has more power than mine.

You don't need a very big cam for what you are trying to accomplish. The old Mopar .528 solid will work fine or use something similar from your favorite cam vendor. Comp has a 294S or a XS282S. I'm sure Hughes has some cams that will work just fine. If you want to go custom then call Porter Racing Heads and have Dwayne spec you a cam, lifters and valve spring combo.

Honestly there is nothing the matter with the cam you have... if anything it probably needs more valve spring, but it will make power just fine.

Double check everything, including the rocker to spring clearance, and rocker pattern.

On the dyno you looked at o2, so fuel starvation is out because it would show up going lean. You double checked the timing (although the balancer could be way off), so sort of ruled that out. It could have weak springs on it, but even if they are weak, I would have expected it to run clean a lot higher RPM then it did (but you'll double check that now).

Honestly though... That being said, if the motor sounded like it ran good (no ticking or anything crazy), I wouldn't be surprised if the coil was junk (new or not).

Are you going to do all the checking you can on this motor now?
If so please recheck the cam timing to make sure EXACTLY where the intake lobe center is
I've used the same Comp Cams grind in more than one pump gas street motor, stock stroke and 4.25 stroke motors, all of them did good on the engine dyno and in the car
I do use adjustable rocker arms also on any of my halfway serious motor, especially on hydraulic lifter motors to get the lifter preload correct
I set the heads up with between 140 to 165 Lbs. on the seats and from 325 to 360 Lbs. open pressures
I use to know John Deanna(SP?), Hot Rod, Car Craft, Motor trend writer and publisher a long time ago, and buy parts from him. I have seen many articles written buy other writers at Pertersen Publishing in those magazines that where dead wrong on a lot of the details and parts use on cars they did articles on some of my friends race cars Same thing on technical build articles that some of shops fed them bad info to test how smart the writers where
My message is do NOT believe every thing you see in print or pictures
Please let us know what you find on this problem, YOU can find it

you never answered if you were using the springs that came with the heads?
Sounds like you're doing way to much when you could of taken off all the valve springs and had them checked while the engine was together and still in the car. Sounds too late though but if you haven't taken the engine apart yet, that's what I would do.

Yes, I did not change the springs. From box to motor. I took it out because I want to check everything and it’s a lot easier when it’s out. Besides I can put it on an engine dyno and check it when it’s all together.

Everyone is giving great recommendations here. That being said let me give my take on this. None of the parts are realy wrong but maybe just not right for combo. Maybe some not my choice but should have still made way more power than it did. when the veh was brought in it was brought in mostly because he was having a spark knock issue so the first things checked was plugs and timing. found there was the wrong plugs in it. It had short reach j style plug when it needs long reach n style so plugs where changed timing was locked out at 34. Doing low speed runs found the carb was very lean so a jet change was made. Full pulls where found to be lean but not in the danger zone. Still my thoughts thou where the tuning was not going to make up for that much lose in power. Tried to add some jet and it went crazy and didnt like that at all. My thoughts are I would have done adjustable rockers and different springs. I have never had much faith in those springs that come with those heads. Also it seam like lifter preload may have been to tight without knowing what the adjustment really was when assembled with the none adjustable rockers. Also if cam was not degreed in just the power band would just been off not that much of a loss unless it was way off,but he said it was dot to dot. watching the graff the converter was going to about 3700 rpm so that wasn't way out. now that the motor is out I would get the heads set up get the rockers. Not a big fan on spending the money on new cam that cam is fine. On another note car was done very nice and the customer and his son and friend that where there where great to talk to

Was the exhaust open or closed? Did you check for excess back pressure? I had a muffler come apart once and partially blocked the exhaust. that car couldn't get out of it's own way.


Joe

Using advertised cam timing event your dynamic c.r. could be as low as 6.4 to 1 with excess lifter preload on a hydraulic would make it worse. mabe start with reducing preload to almost 0.

Ok
Red flag to check.
You cannot degree a cam by going dot to dot on the timing chain. It could be anywhere. You need a degree wheel and find true TDC. Just going off what I read here.

Bingo