having trouble with car only starting when key is turned back from start to on . turns over fine , but no ignition till in "on" spot on key switch. I can not remember for the life of me what the fix for this is, must be getting old. can anyone refresh my memory on this problem. was working fine when put away for storage last fall.

What car?

Generally this is a fault in the IGN2 circuit, the brown wire on the ballast. Check the firewall disconnect.

I had a 73 Dart Sport do the same thing.
Ending up being a bad coil.

Check the ballast and the switch. Coil gets full 12v on start side.

pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter & have a helper hold the key to "start" & you under the hood with your VOM see if the coil positive primary terminal and the blue (OE) or blue/yellow (MP) wire/terminal at the ECU are hot (plus the ECU red/green terminal needs to be hot if 4 terminal ballast/5 pin OE ECU). As said unplug/replug the bulkhead & the ign switch connector if not hot. Holler back.

Mopar Electronic Ignition?
Check that the battery cables are in good condition and the engine to firewall ground is connected.
Check that the Mopar ECU has a good ground connection to the engine block too.

also check the steering column connection to under dash wiring for melty wires or connection. i have repaired quite a few having your symptoms traced to that connection.

ditto, several vehicles the connection is slightly hidden, but generally resting on the column just in front of where column is bolted to bottom of dash.
Open up the connection, brass brush as best you can and put a little dielectric grease in there.

ballast

Had the exact same issue. Firewall connection. Hit with a small steel brush and compressed air. Vroom! Away it went (thanks to Moparts Members suggestions ....)

mopar electronic ign ?
if no wiring has been done and power is going to were its suppose to its always been the mag pick up in the distributor for me.

I'm with John on this one. There are other possibilities for sure, but most likely it's the brown wire that goes to your ballast resistor. It wouldn't be the ballast itself since the brown wire bypasses the ballast. Trace the power on that wire back from the ballast, to the bulkhead disconnect, to the big plug (7-pin or so?) inside the car at the bottom of the steering column & finally back to the ignition switch....my 2-cents.

I REALLY like rapidroberts idea of pulling the yellow wire off of the ignition relay during your test. That would allow a friend of yours to hold the key in the start position while you run your tests & not have the starter spinning the whole time & burning up