I’m looking at a trans for my SS Hemi dart that should be in the 900 HP range. I’ve listed the details of the trans. Does this sound like a solid set up for what I’ve got? Anything you would change?


“billet input shaft & hub,alum drum,billet servo's,a&a 5 pinion planetary,a&a rear bearing support,a&a reverse pattern valuebody,a&a sprag,wide front band,all roller bearing transmission, spare case, carbon shield”


The current owner has ran it behind a stout hemi and wedge but his car also weighs 2-300# less than ours. Just looking for input, not a trans guy. Thanks

Go Billet steel front drum and Ultimate Sprag. red Alto clutches and steels

Call A&A or Protrans.

Over 800ft/lb ? I would go for a heavy duty/billet O/P shaft as well.

Mine runs 9.0-9.1@3350lbs. Just took it apart for inspection. Trans itself has over 600 passes. Currently at 350 passes. The only new parts this go round were a stator support, 2 rings and a filter. What parts are stock; case,pump,input & output shafts,3 pin planet carriers,and servos. Frictions and bands still look nearly new. What parts are modified; lightened sun shell,aluminum drums, aluminum rear clutch carrier, A&A super sprag, torington bearings. I would definitely run the steel front planet carrier if using a brake. I have damaged a stock one, but only one (no trans brake). Current stock piece working fine. If you run a sleeved aluminum front drum I would try Teflon rings on the stator support. Mine is not sleeved so steel rings must be run. The check-up revealed a damage stator support in the rear ring groove along with a ring that was half thickness. Red solid band, 5 thin smooth Alto frictions/Kolene steels in the high clutch. 15 springs set at .075". Rear frictions and steels are stock parts, 3.8 lever, early servo with inner and outer springs. It runs a old Turbo action rev manual valve body. We also run stock input/outputs in Dizusters turbo car with a brake. Close to 850hp@3750lbs on radials. It has broke a aftermarket drive shaft, pinion shaft in the rear axle, but never a trans part outside of stripping a stock front planet. You can build a reliable unit yourself.
Doug

No TQ will only be in the 630-640 range is say. It’ll be a legal nhra ss motor with an older top end..def no shoot out car.

DVW thanks for your input sound like you have awesome luck out of your set up and that’s the reason I’m considering this trans, I know the guy and know it’s not junk. We don’t have to squeeze every ounce of performance just want a solid reliable piece and he priced it super reasonable even if we have to make a few adjustments we will still be ahead

900HP with a 727. Good Luck!

Mines pretty close to 900. Have you broke one at this level? If so what part? By building my own I have paid attention to clearances, wear, and failures. Then adjust as necessary. It gets an easy 100 passes a year, not just the occasional blast. Going on year 6. Every automatic car I've raced since the 80's has had a 727. Only hard part failures I've ever had are a stripped front planet, worn aluminum clutch carrier, reaction shaft worn.
Doug

What part of KY are you located?

I’m in Elizabethtown

Grew up on route 222 in Glendale, many moons ago

I thought so, going to run any races in Paducah this year?

If the VB isn't LBA, I'd definitely upgrade to one.

Well I grew up in Sonora so very familiar with Glendale!

I doubt we will have the car ready this year, trying but going to be tough. And what exactly is LBA with the VB?? Like I said I’m not a trans guy lol

If you want top shelf stuff, you're going to spend 7-8K plus the converter. Less if you just want something to function and live. Either way, if I didn't know my way around one, I would talk to one of the shops that do them everyday. You can throw some good parts in one, get it put together pretty close and do OK for most applications, but you're in a little bit different situation depending on how up-to-date your combination is.

We’re just building a glorified bracket car with some 10 yr old fancy hemi heads/intake lol we don’t need a 7-8k trans. I think this trans with maybe some minor upgrades will do us just fine

LBA (low band apply) applies the rear band along with the sprag (low roller clutch) to help hold the rear drum. If the sprag lets loose the forward drum can go to 14,000+rpm. I have used both. I like the old style non LBA better as the 1/2 shift is cleaner. I would recommend a good aftermarket front drum either way. I've run both aluminum and aftermarket steel front drums. My preference is for the lighter aluminum piece. For me wear on the aluminum drum has been a non issue as well. Top shelf doesn't necessarily mean stronger. More like lighter and quicker.
Doug

Doug, i glad you had great luck. i've been thru aleast a dozen 727 trans, i have 200 less HP and a coan trans now. has been rebuilt several times.
I personally believe if you go more than 600+hp 727 Not the way. Im happy for the guys that have been.

1100 hp in a 3700lb car for me. A&A built 727 with a Dynamic converter. Had $5200 into trans/ converter. Had two failures. one transbrake solenoid, and broke a tailshaft housing when a rear end broke. Very trouble free considering the power and weight. Guessing around 200 passes before selling the car.

i'm at 1200+ hp and have a 727 with no issues

Someone needs a new tranny guy.

I agree! I know guys going 8.60's in full body cars with a 727's.

I will stay with the 727 because it's a streeter,I seem to be ok with iT?

Almost 950ft/lb here. Only time it's broke has been when we took some teeth off the ring gear (Dana 60). Broke the O/P shaft and rolled the sprag. It's got a lot of aftermarket stuff inside, nothing lightened just all the H/D steel stuff you can get and has worked great, although now I've probably jinxed it

Sounds like plenty of you guys are doing just fine and making lots of power with a 727

Who knows what used parts have been through before the average tranny builder reuses them
I like new good race parts from Dave Smith in all of my all out race trannys that he builds for me

That's half the battle building a good trans - knowing what's good and what's not.
Guys can buy the "build a trans" book but that only gets it assembled. Using parts on the verge of failure only gets you limited life - guys that know what to look for don't use those parts. Starting with a good core takes a lot of risk out of the build.

I'm at about 1100 hp w/ a 727 in a 3900 lb car. 8.90s at 150 mph.
Billet steel drum, TA transbrake (no LBA), A&A 5 pinion planetary, bolt in sprag, cast deep pan, your normal good clutches, etc. and that's it. The rest is stock stuff. Knock on wood, it's been good so far.

Exactly. There is a difference between a builder and aN assembler. This stuff is old. Some wear in the sealing areas, where rotating parts ride, etc. Most of the time the stuff us pretty good, but not always. Mine needed a reaction shaft support this freshen. Not broke, just worn in the sealing ring land.
Doug

Well I went and picked up the trans this morn, price was def right and he threw in a new case/tail shaft and several other small parts. I’m sure it’ll be just fine for us. You guys are making tons more power/tq and weigh more than we will so that def makes me feel better lol

..100% I have a few freshen under my belt (1 727,1 46h)both with good cores. I'm no expert for sure. I guess I out.

Back in the 60s early 70s most all funny cars used TFs, how much HP did a blown nitro Hemi make then?

I am more interested in how many blew the trannys up and how many drivers got hurt from that
Ask Don Garlits about using automatic tranny parts behind a Top Fuel Dragster
That was back when racers and tranny builders where making Clutch Flyte, Clutch 400 and Clutch C6, no converters either
Lenco did the needed research and development and took over that market on making safe drag racing trannys with clutchs

There is no question that a properly built 727 with even stock parts can withstand 1000HP and torque. The issue is the builder, the parts and how long you expect it to live.

We have several cars in the area making this power ( backed by dyno sheets not power calculators like Wallace ) that have lived long lives with stock parts.

As for funny cars back in the day - clutch is harder on the trans (clutchflite) but those cars were much lighter, tires and tracks are not what like are today. Starting line inertia is what kills some of the parts.

Pro Trans vote here. My is behind a 605” Hemi in a all steel 65 Coronet. Very happy with it.

They called them torchflites back then too lol.

I'd say about 2000hp back then