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Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462592
03/07/18 03:05 PM
03/07/18 03:05 PM
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RustyM Offline OP
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mocking up the seat- poly seat.
best/easiest way to install race seats/ figuring distances?
Using a new steering column as stock was shot thus, wanting to get mock up done as easily as possible.

sooo far behind!
argh.

thanks guys.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462593
03/07/18 03:07 PM
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also- perhaps some pics/ideas on mounting shifter would be really helpful time saver.
thanks again.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462597
03/07/18 03:16 PM
03/07/18 03:16 PM
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Cotati, CA
Dave Hall Offline
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Check Andy's thread...

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462613
03/07/18 03:44 PM
03/07/18 03:44 PM
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Slide the seat in with the new column and steering wheel in place and sit in the seat, move it around to where you like it and mount it there scope up
I like to move the seat as far as comfortable to the center and as far back as my legs will safely reach the peddles of the car for two reasons, one is moving weight to the passenger side and the other is more arm room from those dang, pesky door bars work
Think twice, modify once grin
Same thing on the shifter, put it where you like it up

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/07/18 03:45 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462646
03/07/18 04:29 PM
03/07/18 04:29 PM
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I have some extra seat brackets for a Kirkey, not sure if they'll fit your seat or not. I made several brackets for my car so the extras are just sitting here.

DSC_1190 (Large).JPG
Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2462702
03/07/18 06:20 PM
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I'm interested Andy.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480623
04/10/18 06:06 PM
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need help- bad as I hate to say it!

car finally back from getting a simple 8 point put in.

Mocking up drivetrain:
AR engineering motor plate, empty 413 bock with main caps, empty 727 case, stock 72 Duster trans mount bracket and rubber mount for mock up.

Problem 1 : I didn't pull pull old trans out, have mount in with "lip" to the rear as it seems like being toward the front limits access to speedometer drive ( but not cable- we wont be using anyway, so doesn't matter)- plenty of clearance on upper trans bolts for a ratchet wrench or open/box wrench- is this correct?
if mounted the other way, engine moves back another 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

Problem 2 : I used a 1 1/4 inch piece of tubing ( thanks Andy ) through the mains, through trans case to help align engine to rear pinion - not going well it seems.

motor plate has to be all the way over against drives side inner fender on frame rail to get real of trans aligned with pinion- im still off to the driver side approx. 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
How much play "right to left" on alignment is within good tolerance?

pinion angle ( verticals) I can get, no problem, its the horizontal plane thats giving me grief.

trans to firewall looks square, engine though looks like its angled from front drivers side to rear passenger side.

It "looks like" i need to modify trans mount hanger, move trans toward passenger side and then motor plate to passenger side to everything can be straight side to side , back to front.
This would also put me closer to TTI specs on split.
right now the difference is 2 inches instead of 2.5
I'm 14 1/16 from pass side frame rail to crank center line.
I'm 16 1/16 from drivers frame rail to crank center line.

I'm way, way behind on this car and- frustrated.

Rear housing is square to the car on all measurements.
there is no way for me to hit pinion nut to front of crank center unless i move rear of trans.
Right now motor place is sitting half on and half off passenger frame rail as we cut off all of the folded up area on that rail.

Install just looks all wrong- goofy, not square.
yes, Im aware engine sit to passenger side- just don't want driveshaft/u joint issues etc.

swimming in it in Texas, sheesh!

Rusty

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480641
04/10/18 06:38 PM
04/10/18 06:38 PM
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Any chance you have the motor plate on backwards? The motor plate has the correct amount of offset built into it so it should drop in and be really close side to side.

Here is what mine looks like at the moment.

DSC_2318 (Large).JPG
Last edited by AndyF; 04/10/18 06:40 PM.
Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480644
04/10/18 06:43 PM
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Move the motor over to the passenger side as far as you can get it safely with the parts you have, same thing on the rear tranny mount, move it as far back as you can and still hook everything up up twocents
I did all of that with my last Duster street car build, it had right at 50.25 % weight on the front tires with me in it with a full tank of gas in the stock gas tank boogie grin devil
That rascal would flat hook up in the middle of a rain storm in a mud puddle whistling grin AKA, that car flat worked well, it exceeded my expectations a bunch shock shruggy
Plan ahead and then build and enjoy it forever up

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/10/18 06:44 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 72 duster [Re: AndyF] #2480669
04/10/18 07:26 PM
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have engine side toward engine Andy.
Im fixing to pull the stock trans mount bracket to see if there is any offset to it at all.
Motor plate is also square to core support - same distance on both sides.
Seems it has to be some sort of trans mount issue.
I just dropped plumb bobs on both sides in rear and rear housing is centered and square to car.
Im just pivoting on trans mount - near as i can figure- I have a problem there.

As you stated-" If i was a chassis builder i would go broke", on top of that, lose my mind- grin!

Did you have room left for your trans cover or blanket- cant remember?
Im "really tight " towards top of trans tunnel at bell housing.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480677
04/10/18 07:43 PM
04/10/18 07:43 PM
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Fulton County, PA
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Plumb bob, stringline, locate the centerline of the chassis. The center line of the drivetrain, from the front of the crank to the pinion, should be parallel to the chassis centerline. If going in on stock mounts, it will be about 1 1/4" to the right. If using motor/mid plates, lowering the engine will help clearances at the bellhousing. Putting a hole in the floor with a removable tunnel to fix clearances and access to bolts will make life easier.


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: 72 duster [Re: Cab_Burge] #2480683
04/10/18 07:46 PM
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Thanks Cab: I'm set up to pull trans mount back off now.
It looks like this is where my problem is- did any of these early dusters have an offset in them?

Bottom line, i may have to modify it or, fab one up that will allow me to mover everything over towards passenger side another 1/2 to 3/4 inch to get everything lined up properly.

If i knew how to post pics- I would.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480685
04/10/18 07:50 PM
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Transmission crossmember should only fit on the car one way. The holes are not the same from side to side. However, over the years most anything could've happened to the parts you have. My car came with the wrong transmission mount and it took me a while to figure out the problem.

I have a CSR shield and it does not fit under the stock floor when the engine is in the location that TTi wants.

Do you have your headers yet? If you have your headers you should bolt them on the engine while you are at this stage. Depending on which headers you are using they can change everything. I had to start over once I tried to mount the headers. I had to move a bunch of stuff around and I still haven't quite recovered from that operation.

Re: 72 duster [Re: AndyF] #2480714
04/10/18 08:47 PM
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I have the TTI units you have .
I do have the Gerst front suspension that helps slightly in that i don't have the steering gear box- other than that- we are dealing with the same things.

1. yep- this trans mount only fits one way. That said, I'm wondering if its the slant six/904 unit, not that I know that makes any difference.
It does bolt up to crossmember and trans-mount base on transmission.

2. loosened everything up, slid motor plate back over pretty close to where it should go- everything lines up- but cannot attach mount to trans pad.
secondly, transmission is hugging passenger side of trans tunnel- not touching but, its getting pretty close.

Im wondering at this point if third member off-set is correct- sigh.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480730
04/10/18 09:18 PM
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Anyone know what the pinion offset should be from the spring hanger when springs are moved into frame rails?

I can make this work by modifying a mount and hugging the passenger side of the tunnel- If headers will fit.
Mock those up tomorrow .
Would be nice to know if rear-end builder got it right or- wrong.
8.75 - built- Mark Williams/Strange etc.
don't want to waste work.

thanks guys.

Re: 72 duster [Re: CMcAllister] #2480737
04/10/18 09:27 PM
04/10/18 09:27 PM
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Thanks CM: Its a motor plate, Rb Block/727 /8.75 combo.

at this point, it looks like i'm either going to be fabricating a trans mount and keeping everything a little further to passenger side ( if headers will clear ) or, have 8.75 re-cut.

Going to hang plumb bobs and see for sure- cannot find a spec for where the dang third member centerline "should be" from spring perch's.

Thanks for the help.

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480750
04/10/18 09:42 PM
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As far as I know the pinion offset should be the same as the engine offset. You might need to check with John Knukle or Cass to verify. Those guys know the rearend stuff better than me but I think the Mopar engineers moved everything over the same amount in the cars. Engine, trans and pinion are all moved around 1.25 to 1.50 depending on the make and model.

Re: 72 duster [Re: AndyF] #2480818
04/10/18 11:21 PM
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Thanks Andy.
I did as Cm suggested and im only off a tiny bit now- everything can be set at 1.5 inches off centerline to passenger side with a little tweaking.
will have to modify trans mount a little and man- headers are going to be tight on that side.

Going to look at it all again in the morning- i'm toast, 13.5 hrs today- enough.

Thanks guys.

Rusty

Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480826
04/10/18 11:38 PM
04/10/18 11:38 PM
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Center of the driveline should be parallel and offset an equal amount from the chassis centerline, from the front of the engine to the center of the pinion. If the springs are in the car correct, you can measure from inside of spring to the center of the pinion on both sides and that will give you a rough idea of the pinion offset. I.E. if the right side measures 17" and the left side is 19", that's 36" spring to spring with an inch pinion offset to the right. Another method is carefully straightedging across the mounting face of the axle to the pinion. 21" on the right, 23" on the left is a normal 44" wide unit with an inch offset.

I have seen cars with the shafts running back through the car crooked to a minor degree, without any real negative effects, due to the pinion being in the wrong place for whatever reason, BUT I would avoid it if possible, especially in a high power/speed situation.

Last edited by CMcAllister; 04/10/18 11:43 PM.

If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: 72 duster [Re: RustyM] #2480931
04/11/18 08:17 AM
04/11/18 08:17 AM
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MI, usa
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Ladder bars are cheaper and lighter than Cal Tracks. At axle set up for 4 link gets you half way there as well. I've had no issues with the stock front suspension on my B Body. Good shocks, set for zero bump steer with heim outer tie rods. Though it was pretty close stock. Car has been 1.24 on a foot brake on 10.5x31

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