Im putting my dana 60 into the chassis that has the rear leafs moved in the inboard position. My question is where exactly does the drive yoke wind up.
Thank you.

Exactly where you put it
AKA aside, center the pinion yoke in the center of the tranny tunnel before you weld the new perches on the tubes and go from there Set the pinion angle up correctly before welding the perches on also
Good luck, welcome to the world of hot rodding and drag racing

If the rear was built for something else, it may not be configured correctly. Pinion offset, suspension mounting and wheel location have to be determined when the assembly is built. I see it all the time. Somebody gets a deal on a used rear axle and the driveshaft ends up running crooked in the car and/or the wheel location is different from one side to the other.

If the engine is in the factory location then it will be offset to the passenger side by 1.375 (if I remember correctly) and the pinion will need to be offset a like amount.

Engine offset is 1.250 on most A body cars but it might vary by the year.

If you really want to see what is going on just slide a piece of roll bar tubing thru a bare block and transmission. The roll bar tubing should point right at the pinion yoke.

If your going to be using a old OEM Dana 60 out of a original Mopar production car body the right side axle tube and axle will be noticeably shorter on the passenger side than the drivers side, this was done to center the pinion yoke in the center of the tranny tunnel that is offset in all Mopar production cars from 1962 and up until they quit making rear wheel drives cars that I know of
See my first comment on your results

The driver side tube on D60's are 1 3/8" longer than pass side to put pinion in proper mopar offset. Any good shop should know this... If they don't, might find a different provider.

The pinion offset is 1 3/16 to pass side.

A body engine is not offset as much as a B body. Just depends if you want to build the Dana 60 like a B body rear end, or have it line up exactly with the center of the engine and transmission.

On my Duster the center of the pinion is very close to be on the same line as the engine and transmission. On a race car with a big driveshaft you have to keep everything lined up or else you'll have clearance issues. On a bracket car it might not matter as much.

A and B 8.75's have same length axles on both sides, placing pinion in same location for offset in each model.

But this is the race forum not the restoration forum. The factory probably used the same length axles to make it easy for them but the engine offset is different between A and B body cars.

If someone is building a race car and they want the engine to point directly at the pinion they'll need to move it over a small amount on an A body car compared to a B body car. All depends how serious the effort is and how concerned they are with getting things lined up correctly.

The tubing through the engine block kind of throws a me off. I thought there was supposed to be vertical separation between the output and pinion, with the flanges at parallel angles? Pinion tilted down slightly from there to make up for acceleration.

That is the classic illustration but it doesn't always end up that way. On a car that has been lowered the engine and transmission are often slightly lower than the pinion so the driveshaft can run uphill. Sliding a long tube thru the engine and transmission case will tell you how your chassis is set up. Until you do that you might not know since it is really hard to measure all of the small angles.

If you are using stock location engine/transmission mounts on a backhalfed, big tire car, driveshaft operating angles are usually wonky to some degree. Never run a positive operating angle on the rear u-joint to get the pinion parallel with the trans output shaft, which is typically about 3* down with OE mounts. If the engine is being put in on motor plates this can be corrected, or at least made better, by lowering and/or dropping the front of the engine some.

We always stringline the car, locate the C/L of the chassis and make the driveline C/L parallel with the chassis C/L. Maintain the offset from the front of the crank to the rear u-joint.

I want to thank you all for the input.
Ted