Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#2453726
02/19/18 12:25 AM
02/19/18 12:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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The black paint used on leaf springs was usually very thin. They were dipped as a completed unit all at once, are you sure they weren't painted black? Sure looks like little specs of black paint in your pics? Scott, When I stripped the top coat of Black paint off there was a heavy coat of White paint that looked brushed on, once I stripped that off it was bare metal, I see the specks of black your referring too but I assume those are left over paint on the white because there wasn't any large patches of OEM black visable. Were they always black ?
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: hemicar1971]
#2453835
02/19/18 11:26 AM
02/19/18 11:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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Likely a none axle package Cuda with an automatic. Close...its just a standard 3.23 S/G with a 4 speed.
Last edited by 76orangewagon; 02/19/18 11:30 AM.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: autoxcuda]
#2453837
02/19/18 11:35 AM
02/19/18 11:35 AM
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 892 MA
steve70
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super stock
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Wonder if that white is pastel pink? Seen that color on them. Here's a couple pics of an original T/A's leaf springs
1970 Challenger T/A 4 speed
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: autoxcuda]
#2453838
02/19/18 11:36 AM
02/19/18 11:36 AM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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Wonder if that white is pastel pink? Seen that color on them. I will try to research that a little more I don't have the greatest original marks to go off of and had to up the saturation levels of the color to pull what I have out...I'm just happy I found something to use but I do want to accurately reapply them. I know it's not what the original post should be but does anyone have a better picture of what the paint marks should be ?
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454136
02/19/18 09:11 PM
02/19/18 09:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,648 Hamtramck, PA
Alaskan_TA
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Fluffy Balladeer
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Evaporust can & will remove paint if the parts are left in too long.
Been there, done that.
So for marks / paint research, I learned to soak for an hour, check, photograph.
Check again in an hour, inspect, photograph, etc.
Repeat as needed.
The more rust removed, go with shorter times in between to soak, inspect & photograph.
It is amazing what details can be seen if caught at the right time.
Make sure that any parts are degreased first too, so the ER can work on the rust without fighting any residue.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454163
02/19/18 10:08 PM
02/19/18 10:08 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 18,880 -
RSNOMO
Moparts Torchbearer
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Seymour's Stainless Steel paint (Doesn't hold-up...
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454451
02/20/18 10:51 AM
02/20/18 10:51 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 591 Pa
koak
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Those weren't the OP's pics they were examples of black springs. There was someone on here who refinished "bare" springs using some gun bluing? They looked very nice and I would like to see them again with the process as I am planning on refinishing mine. Anyone? Ditto on the Seymoure's paint as well. Looks good, but I wouldn't use it unless on small brackets or with some serious primer underneath.
Last edited by koak; 02/20/18 10:53 AM.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: RSNOMO]
#2454464
02/20/18 11:31 AM
02/20/18 11:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,632 Nashville, TN
MOPARMIKE69
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Seymour's Stainless Steel paint (Doesn't hold-up... Really? I have a road runner convertible I did the springs with this paint 20 years ago. They still look great.
69 Road Runner vert 69 GTX hard top 70 Road Runner 4 speed 70 Hemi Cuda vert
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#2454635
02/20/18 04:20 PM
02/20/18 04:20 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
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Since they were painted as an assembly there will be very little black paint between the leaves. Either way, skip sand blasting them and soak them in a PVC pipe full of Evaporust. Once dipped any remaining black paint (if any) will be much easier to spot as the Evaporust won't remove it. Scrub off any remaining residue with a scotch brite pad and rinse them in thinner as opposed to water to clean up the residue. Once done you should have a nice natural bare steel. Originals that were unpainted had nothing on them, so anything you paint them with will be considered "wrong" at the O.E. level. If you don't care about that then there are tons of paint choices, use your eye to best match the natural color of the clean metal. .02 I agree. Instead of paint, before assembly I put RPM on on each leaf. They still look great after 2 years. BTW - I'm working on the set of springs I purchased from you back in November. Currently soaking in ER.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454936
02/21/18 03:29 AM
02/21/18 03:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,651 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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Natural finish on springs:
Spring leaves are a hot rolled steel product usually with intact mill scale when relatively new. After being produced at a steel mill as a flat bar, leaf springs are further hot worked to taper the thickness and heat treated to obtain desired properties. The end result is mill scale on the surfaces, an oxide of iron, usually almost black or very dark blue.
At any Home Depot, Lowe's or other building materials emporium, look at the hot rolled steel concrete reinforcing bar, square tubing, flat bars, angles, etc. All these hot rolled steel items have a very dark range of colors, such as dark gray or very dark blue. Not silver, not anything like Seymour's Stainless Steel paint.
What you are looking at is intact mill scale. Natural finish steel springs should be the same color as front suspension forgings, another hot worked steel part with mill scale.
The best way I know to duplicate the look of black or dark blue mill scale on spring leaves is gun bluing after rust removal with Evapo-Rust. As said above, wash off the Evapo-rust with mineral spirits, then apply gun bluing according to the bluing directions.
Notice the blue color of hot rolled steel in the bottom photos.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454941
02/21/18 03:37 AM
02/21/18 03:37 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,651 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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As said in the link below, mill scale, a combination of FeO, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4, is "bluish black in color". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mill_scaleThis photo from the link is loose mill scale pieces from hammering on red hot steel on an anvil. Mill scale on a relatively new and un-weathered spring leaf will be intact and tightly adhering.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2540627
08/23/18 10:03 PM
08/23/18 10:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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I thought I would post a finished example of my restored leaf springs, after much deliberation and trial and errors with my powder coater I went with a natural finish. After I soaked them in Evaporust We decided to glass bead them and coat them in a Matte Clear powder for durability. I'm happy with the finished results and I reapplied the paint Daubs I found after the Evaporust did it's job.
Last edited by 76orangewagon; 08/23/18 10:04 PM.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: a12rag]
#2540643
08/23/18 10:58 PM
08/23/18 10:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,252 New York
rarefish
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Shouldn't the part numbers be one even and one odd at the end (44) . . . left & right ?? That was the case with 440 and Hemi cars...
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: rarefish]
#2540660
08/23/18 11:32 PM
08/23/18 11:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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Shouldn't the part numbers be one even and one odd at the end (44) . . . left & right ?? That was the case with 440 and Hemi cars... My broadcast sheet shows "044" for both left and right leaf springs for my 71' 340 Cuda but you are correct that most leaf springs seem to be different numbers.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2540669
08/23/18 11:51 PM
08/23/18 11:51 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 784 Florida
cbusters
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I thought I would post a finished example of my restored leaf springs, after much deliberation and trial and errors with my powder coater I went with a natural finish. After I soaked them in Evaporust We decided to glass bead them and coat them in a Matte Clear powder for durability. I'm happy with the finished results and I reapplied the paint Daubs I found after the Evaporust did it's job. Unfortunately the entire spring would have been dipped in the black paint. I left my leaf separators and spring clamps Zinc colored as well. Couldn't make myself scuff and paint them.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2540670
08/23/18 11:55 PM
08/23/18 11:55 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9,550 Sacramento CA
Morty426
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Shouldn't the part numbers be one even and one odd at the end (44) . . . left & right ?? That was the case with 440 and Hemi cars... My broadcast sheet shows "044" for both left and right leaf springs for my 71' 340 Cuda but you are correct that most leaf springs seem to be different numbers. 044 is correct and it looks like you did a great job on your springs.
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