Yeah too many opinions and too many oils to choose from.

This is what I run in almost everything https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/fuels/racing

HPR30 20/60

Did you know its now Driven - by Comp Cams...

You didn't say whether either engine has a flat-tappet cam and that's very important. This thread like others before it has lots of people stating their favorite oil without saying they're using a roller cam. Unless someone states that the oil they recommend was used with a flat tappet cam assume it wasn't.
Be very careful with the Valvoline oils. You'll find lots of posts saying they use "VR-1" but Valvoline puts VR-1 on the label of just about everything they make. I'm pretty sure the marketing wanks at valvoline wear VR-1 underwear at all times. If you want to run your flat tappet cam with Valvoline oil be sure to get the RACING version.

I agree, i use to run a roller cam in the 408 and i think most oil brands would work just find in that app. I now use a flat tappet in the 511 with 145/410# open pressure and use either Brad Penn or Amsoil just for the piece of mind. Also, because my oil tends to run hot i use the 20/50.

I now run JR1 Racing Oil JR 4.0 5/20W full synthetic. I began running it in my 5.7l G3 Hemi super stocker and then ‘snuck’ up on running it in my supercharged 354 stocker motor.

I have run many oils over my 37 years in all my various Mopar based race engines and sometimes wondered if there was a big difference as long as you stuck with a top quality synthetic with decent additives. In the case of this JR1, it consistently made 7-12 HP more on dyno pulls across the power band and after having made more than 20 passes with the supercharged 354, BES tore the motor down and called me to say I was lying ... it didn’t look Iike I’d made more than a couple passes. It’s good stuff and the cheapest horsepower I’ve found yet.

Oil, schmoil, your Stocker Drag Pak is bada$$!

I don't, unless you are talking about an OEM hydraulic roller. A stout solid roller still needs a better oil than typical passenger car stuff. Others won't agree with me, but they're not paying for my engines, either.

Is this post still going. It must be a slippery subject

Thats what some say, but i have not really seen that proven yet. I agree with the last part. On the other hand, I would never run $3.50/qt oil in any thing but the lawn mower.

The 1st number is what you get when you start the car, it contributes to cranking speed. It's not relevant if you live on Mercury or Venus, otherwise I'm guessing that your air temperature is below 180 degrees.
A missing (no ?W) or high 1st number (20W & up) is inverse to how many seconds it takes before the last bearing gets oil. Fewer seconds is better.
If you use "straight" 30 weight (W is winter, not weight) I suggest you follow the procedure they used in 1916 aircraft: heat the oil over a stove, and add it to the engine just before you start it.
Really modern engines can live with 0W and 5W, we can't. Don't.

Over the decades, many smart people (Norton Player team, Gene Berg) re-discovered than running asphalt in the pan breaks things faster than the original viscosity.

Car is solid flat tappet lifters.