Where does the oil return from the cam/lifter area?

I haven't seen the phrase "pressure test" used, yet. Given the Ritter block's history, wouldn't that be a must-do operation before doing any machine work to one?

What is the lifter angle and deck height on these?

Woops, you beat me to it, 48*.

I haven't seen the phrase "pressure test" used, yet. Given the Ritter block's history, wouldn't that be a must-do operation before doing any machine work to one?

What are the three holes beside the oil pump mounting on the rear main cap?

On a factory cap there is a slot there. It's to get oil out of the back side of the main IIRC. With out going out and looking at a cap I'm going off memory.

Where did the older ones have problems? What should I be looking for, any idea?

Verify.. every bolt hole is in the correct location and proper angle.. verify both the coolant side and oil side of every Passage.. if you're doing a Max effort deal verify the correct angle on every lifter.. hours were all over the place.. actually had to increase the lifter diameter to correct the issue.. oil drain backs definitely going to need to be improved.. if you were doing a wet sump
. But like I stated earlier from what I can see they definitely look better

It returns the front bay through a drilled hole that goes to the timing chain area and the other bays by a hole in the rear that returns to the oil pan area. What I mean by bays is the cam bearing saddles kind of create a bay in between each cam bearing saddle.

#2 through #5 have a channel that directs flow to the rear.

I'll try and take a picture this weekend.

With the Limited oil return on the Block if you're doing a wet sump I would also recommend external drain Backs from the head to the oil pan this enables air to come up so oil can go down in other locations

So, what’s the deal with the r3 blocks? Jegs lists a 9.025 deck 48 degree dry sump block for $2900. Says it will ship on the 23rd of this month. Is this not really available? Or is it just an undesirable configuration?

Where does the oil return from the cam/lifter area?

Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?

Did you bolt a timing cover to it?

Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?

I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on

I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.

On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage

I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?

Let me ask this, wet sump, what about drilling holes from the cam tunnel valley to the crankshaft, I know, I know, windage, it's an issue but is it really on a deal were you're not looking for every last HP?

I believe on a wet sump I would do a lot more work on oil return. I'll do that on one of the engines I'm going to build because it will be wet sump. I will look into all options but putting hole into the cam tunel to the crankshaft area would help. It might also help to return oil from the valley even though it is open in the back.

I will keep you guys posted.

I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!

Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights

Be careful of what you wish for
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same

....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it?

Be careful of what you wish for
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same

We did exactly that... we opened up the cam tunnel to increase drain back. We are going to run a similar setup as White Dart using a Daily wet sump.

White Dart is a great source of help and information. I will be starting a thread as soon as ours starts going back together! Hopefully will be posting pictures in a few weeks good luck and if you need any help let us know.

And for those that know about honing

They made a substantial investment (around $100K) in their honing equipment. Definitely a higher end machine shop

Hard to go wrong with the QMP crew

I think you meant to say hone head and diamonds .. and actually I think that was only for the old head and stones.
They have substantially better stuff than that now.. I think if you have a Target temperature that you can operate the Motor Inn he can hone the block at that temperature..

So one guy say's he thinks the aluminum XR2 will only go 4.1" bore. And everyone repeats it.

There is no reason this block in aluminum can't go at least 4.185". After all the other aluminum blocks with this bore space go 4.185".