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#2453224 - 02/17/18 07:13 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
Biginchmopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 1278
Loc: Carson City, Nevada
Couple more pics


Attachments
9125BC6D-6227-4862-B2D9-C7BA4286F7AC.jpeg

3BD589BD-302B-4D37-A31E-E0531E78EAF7.jpeg

F34DE03A-55AA-41E8-8130-030A8C1B9F08.jpeg



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#2453387 - 02/18/18 08:10 AM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
Bad340fish Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 5921
Loc: Tulsa OK
Thank you for sharing
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68 Barracuda Formula S 340

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#2453440 - 02/18/18 10:16 AM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
Just-a-dart Offline
pro stock

Registered: 02/20/11
Posts: 1273
Loc: Glendora Ca.
Did you bolt a timing cover to it?

Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?

I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on

I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.


Edited by Just-a-dart (02/18/18 10:17 AM)
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#2453442 - 02/18/18 10:21 AM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
onig Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/09/08
Posts: 348
Loc: Canada
Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?
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#2453502 - 02/18/18 12:52 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: onig]
Biginchmopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 1278
Loc: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By onig
Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?

I used some lifters and did some measurements. I’ll reconfirm these once I get them to the shop with the fixture that we use to do lifter bushings.

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#2453503 - 02/18/18 12:55 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Just-a-dart]
Biginchmopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 1278
Loc: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By Just-a-dart
Did you bolt a timing cover to it?

Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?

I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on

I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.


Not yet, but I will soon (timing cover)

Studs and heads yes, gasket no

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#2453549 - 02/18/18 02:46 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: WHITEDART]
CMcAllister Offline
master

Registered: 12/30/05
Posts: 2621
Loc: Fulton County, PA
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage


I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?

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#2453698 - 02/18/18 08:42 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: CMcAllister]
Biginchmopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 1278
Loc: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By CMcAllister
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage


I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?


These blocks have priority oiling to the mains. The lifter bushings I’m going to use will have groves on the outside to pass excess oil by.

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#2454100 - 02/19/18 05:00 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
69 lawndart Offline
member

Registered: 03/28/13
Posts: 101
Loc: Kansas, Topeka
That's what I did with mine.


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#2454142 - 02/19/18 06:18 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: 69 lawndart]
RylisPro Offline


Registered: 06/18/07
Posts: 2350
Loc: NorCal
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!
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#2454326 - 02/19/18 09:56 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: RylisPro]
69 lawndart Offline
member

Registered: 03/28/13
Posts: 101
Loc: Kansas, Topeka
Yes sir it is.

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#2454399 - 02/20/18 12:07 AM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
SCATPACK 1 Offline
pro stock

Registered: 04/30/05
Posts: 1447
Loc: TN
Originally Posted By Biginchmopar
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
With the Limited oil return on the Block if you're doing a wet sump I would also recommend external drain Backs from the head to the oil pan this enables air to come up so oil can go down in other locations


Let me ask this, wet sump, what about drilling holes from the cam tunnel valley to the crankshaft, I know, I know, windage, it's an issue but is it really on a deal were you're not looking for every last HP?

I believe on a wet sump I would do a lot more work on oil return. I'll do that on one of the engines I'm going to build because it will be wet sump. I will look into all options but putting hole into the cam tunel to the crankshaft area would help. It might also help to return oil from the valley even though it is open in the back.

I will keep you guys posted.


What about drilling a 1/4 inch hole next to each main saddle. That way any oil that drains back would be down the side of the main saddle and not splashing around too much. Would require holes drilled next to #2, #3, and #4 mains.
HAH.
Never mind, i see you already handled the oil drain issue. Treed again.


Edited by SCATPACK 1 (02/20/18 12:14 AM)
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#2454423 - 02/20/18 02:30 AM Re: Ritter Block [Re: SCATPACK 1]
LA360 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 5587
Loc: Melbourne , Australia
They certainly look better, the rear cap is markedly improved.

I have a couple of XR2 blocks for P7 heads, they're earlier blocks. Once I've recovered from a recent surgery, I'll be measuring them. I have a feeling the lifter bores are out of position, based on my initial inspections.
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#2454630 - 02/20/18 01:12 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: RylisPro]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 31696
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Originally Posted By RylisPro
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!

Be careful of what you wish for tsk whistling work
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same shruggy
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#2454631 - 02/20/18 01:15 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge]
pittsburghracer Offline
"Little"John

Registered: 02/02/05
Posts: 13766
Loc: PA.
But the car won’t weight the same. Lol.
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Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr





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#2454633 - 02/20/18 01:18 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: pittsburghracer]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 31696
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy
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#2454637 - 02/20/18 01:26 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge]
J_BODY Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 04/30/03
Posts: 11690
Loc: aZLiViN
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy


....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it?

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#2454643 - 02/20/18 01:51 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge]
CMcAllister Offline
master

Registered: 12/30/05
Posts: 2621
Loc: Fulton County, PA
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Originally Posted By RylisPro
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!

Be careful of what you wish for tsk whistling work
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same shruggy


Which means they make more power. Ive been told by engine guys that you need to "get after" an aluminum block combination more so than an iron block. And then there's the extra expense. Some of us have a finite budget and want to spread it around past one engine or one car.


Edited by CMcAllister (02/20/18 01:51 PM)

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#2454860 - 02/20/18 08:52 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: J_BODY]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 31696
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Originally Posted By J_BODY
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy


....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it?

The car I'm talking about had ballast on the front bumper with the aluminum block, they moved it from there and move it further back to keep the front to rear ratio % the same for traction, they had to add over 400 lbs. to the car make the minimum weights shruggy
I wish I could afford to build a car like that, but I'm not whiney
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#2455141 - 02/21/18 01:14 PM Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar]
Biginchmopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 1278
Loc: Carson City, Nevada
The reason I didn't go with Aluminum is bore size, I believe the Aluminum Ritter Block is limited to 4.120 bore.

Look at the main caps between mine and the aluminum block , the front is the same but the rest are different. Maybe a change for the better? Rear cap is way better now.

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