How many feet of battery cable would you estimate for a 69 GTX? Just the positive running from the right rear of the trunk to the starter?

I'm just guessing here but i would think Approx. 30' feet, depending on how your going to rout it. Take a string and run it the path your going to use measure it and add some to the length for error?

I do believe there is something called a 'tape measure'. It's a measuring device known to be invented some 100 years ago.

Gee, way back in 1864 for the invention of the spring return tape measure;

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tape_measure

Thanks for the sarcasm but I'm sitting in a hotel room 1000 miles away from my car and I need to get the cable on order in the morning. I will buy extra but looking for feedback on other's experiences............

Ahhh, more information does help.

22 feet on an A-body, so maybe 24 ft for a B; That's from battery switch near R/R corner of car, up through existing drain-hole in trunk, along rt side crossing over behind rear seat bulkhead, running inside interior rocker trough, up through firewall to starter or power post. There's also the alternator-kill wire to plan for if you run it that way. Then there's the cable from battery (also @ R/R) to switch, which I usually buy pre-made, as well as the grounds battery/frame & engine/frame.
Depending on starter access, you might want to run essentially a pigtail from starter to a plug for the starter wiring.

Best is to use a piece of string or wire and run it the exact route you plan to use.

If you got 25' or 30' you'd probably be safe. It all depends on the approach you use. Running the starter load through a cutoff located on tail panel area is going to use more wire than a car running a starter solenoid at near battery box/mount.

Keep in mind..
When mounting a battery in the trunk, that U also need to have a matching gauge ground cable secured cleanly to the frame. Many times we see a heavy gauge wire for the positive lead (+) and a smaller gauge for the negative lead (-). Also the final gauge size depends upon the total amperage load of all connected components including audio, headlights, fuel pump. If <75 Amps #4 cable is OK, if >100 Amps use #2 or #1 cable...

Note that cables and terminals are available from Summit, Jegs or Mancini..

Just my $0.02...

Thank you!

I did consider running a smaller cable for the ground but right now am leaning towards same size for both. Might change my mind by morning.

Car is barely over than 16 ft. Firewall to trunk is even less. Run the cable to the fire wall and use this. Short lengths of cable on the engine side to alternator and starter. Another run on the interior side to your switch box.You can see the battery cable coming up from the right side rocker. The speedway stud is above the gas pedal. Can't quite see it in the interior shot. Done, clean, simple.
Doug
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bulkhead-Battery-Cable-Connector-Red,83539.html

I am on planning using bulkhead connectors.........

I'm in the process of moving the battery to the trunk on my 69 Dart and pulled the wire today. The cable goes from the starter through the firewall just below and to the outside of the master cylinder and goes along the sill on the drivers side to the trunk, then across the differential hump to the solenoid mounted behind the passengers wheel well. I bought 25' of 1/0 welding cable and will guess there is about 7' extra. I still have to make the cable from the battery to the solenoid and ground wire. There will probably only be 4' left over.

I would buy twice what your planning on using now and run the ground from the battery to the block as well as several other good grounds from the battery to the frame in the trunk area
All the current from all batteries leave on the negative side and return to the positive side post, hence the need for good "grounds"
The alternator current that charges the battery flows into the positive side of the battery also

Mine is grounded on roll cage studs at the rear, transmission to trans cross member, and under the dash. Voltage drop on the ground side is .1 volt. I also run twisted pair with ground shielding from the crank trigger and the ignition coil. Never had any electrical issues.
Doug

I just bought 25' of 1/0 welding cable for the '69 Coronet. Now I have to install it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD26HZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, got the stud ring ends to crimp on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLCLK7Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After crimping the ends on, I might solder the ends too? Is that overkill? I am thinking it might help prevent internal corrosion?

Solder and heat shrink is your friend for good continuity and protection

Last time I checked, DC needs the same gauge wire for both sides or you will limit the positive to the load carrying capacity of the smaller negative cable. I used to ground to the frame and never had any issues, but now I run a full length ground from battery to block. It may not be necessary, but it does not cost much and your starter will thank you.

A proper crimp should not require any solder at all. Should be no air space for the solder to flow.

Solder is less conductive than the copper wire...

I weld nuts onto the frame front and rear. Frame connectors ad roll bars are good for continuity. Never had an issue. Same size wire for engine/frame grounds. One from block to frame, second from battery to frame, third is a floating smaller wire ground near ignition box/dash.

My thoughts exactly

No. 6 sided 12 ton crimp with properly sized closed end lug and proper crimper die then heat shrink.

I know quite a bit about cable connections and grounding. I have been in many facilities around the world working on and correcting grounding issues in industrial facilities.