Hey Guys, who are the go-to people these days for pot metal and brake booster restoration?

Thanks!
Randy

Booster Dewey for the booster:

http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

No experience with pot metal resto.

X2 on Dewey.

Booster Dewey as recommended, as far as pot metal, if it's pitted your going to PAY dearly! if it looks "unstable" to the plater, most will refuse to de-cromate it for fear of losing it in solution, never mind re-plating it, best to replace with NOS, or repro pcs if available as pot metal is expensive, if you want nice potmetal work, Advanced plating in Nashville Tenn, Steve and crew do the utmost in quality work and wrecking your wallet at the same time

For Pot Metal work I have used Pauls Chrome in PA. As mentioned above, the Pot Metal work is expensive, but the only choice when reproductions are not available. Even then, the quality and fit of repros is hit or miss. Nothing fits like original.

Thanks fellas !

I to have used Paul’s for pot metal, it came out great. They do give a price prior to completing so you get the sticker shock upfront, which is a good thing in MHO. I also have used booster Dewey. I did an exchange and the booster that I received was really nice.

Booster Dewey did one for me years ago, came back looking new, still does...almost. I don't remember what it cost but I do recall he sent a bag of M+M peanuts back with it...yum

Booster Dewey doesn't do master cylinders. Any recommendations for those?

Also, what color are you guys painting the boosters? Semi-gloss black? I think I may spray it myself.

Nu Chrome in Fall River, Mass destroyed some 69 GTX parts I gave them, and never made good on them..

I have had nice pot metal work from Pauls Chrome, also excellent work from Iversons Automotive http://www.iversonautomotive.com/, I think Advanced Plating in Nashville may do it too, never used them but always heard great things about them. I had a guy in Northern KY. do excellent work for me on Pot Metal too, I will see if he is still in business or retired yet.

I have had apple hydraulic do master cly.good job quick turn around time. thay will give you a est.
phone 631 369 9515

Friend of mine got burned bad by Apple Hydraulics. Had a hold off valve rebuilt and it acted like a one way valve letting fluid to the rear brakes but not back up to the master cylinder. Burned up his rear brakes and discolored his drums to the point they warped from excessive heat from the brakes being constantly on. Apple never made good on it.

Thanks guys!

Some members here have also been screwed over by Whitepost restorations on Master cylinder rebuilds.
Brake and Equipment Warehouse in Minneapolis is the go-to shop to use for rebuilding Mopar Master cylinders.
http://brakeandequipment.com/

For pot metal work, you must practically interrogate the guy as to his process. Some bumper shops will chrome right over the pits. Others say they will keep copper plating it til the pits are filled (along with any detail left on the piece). Some shops will, and I quote 'grind out the pits'. Some will fill the pits with real bondo or some other plastic. The best will strip the part, glass bead it to remove any dead/oxidized pot metal, then fill the pits with pewter or lead or some other type of metal, then into the copper, and so on. It's a lot like doing body work when it's done right, and that's why it's so pricy. The better your cores the less expensive the part is to plate. But don't be surprised if after they strip a pristine part they find oxidation or pitting under it.
This was the process back when I had a bunch of work done 10+ years ago. Materials may have improved or processes changed. Part of the cost is in the chemicals - not buying them when new, but proper disposal of them when spent. You just don't pour that stuff into the sewer, lest you want to create a Superfund site and poison water fowl and wildlife for many miles around, not to mention people's drinking water or fishing.