Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >
Topic Options
#2426427 - 12/31/17 01:51 PM The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ?
plumcrazycuda Offline
top fuel

Registered: 12/14/03
Posts: 1708
Loc: PA
I am finally ready to pull the trigger on my building. If you can tell me what you would of done different or what you are glad you did when building your building ?
_________________________


70 Cuda
73 barracuda
73 Barracuda
Looking for my build sheet or fender tag for my 70 Cuda Vin BS23H0B438517. Please look in your Blue on Blue Cuda or Challenger for the build sheet. My car was built in 7/70.

Top
#2426467 - 12/31/17 02:12 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
amxautox Online   content
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96508
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
Taller doors. To fit a high top van, or small motorhome. Higher rafters to clear the car lift better. The salesman didn't seem to know a lot about that when I asked.

Have heating installed along with the financing of the garage.

Also you might think about what I did. I had a car entry installed in the rear so I can drive thru without having to back up the 50' length of the building, which I did for 8 years before reducing the size of the puppy yard after getting Cherokee so I could once again drive around the house.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


Top
#2426480 - 12/31/17 02:20 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
Neil Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 12479
Loc: Eagle, Idaho
I once helped a guy out with the drawings for a garage/studio using pole barn framing and could not figure out why you would want to expose the wood support structure to the soil. If it ever rots how would you fix it?

In this area if you see anyone who has a separate garage or shop in the back yard it's typically built the same way the house is except it has a concrete floor slab instead of wood floor joists and a crawl space.

Also seen guys pour their own slab on grade floor and then buy a metal building "kit" and install it on top. Those go up fast, but don't know what the costs are.


Edited by Neil (12/31/17 02:21 PM)

Top
#2426516 - 12/31/17 02:49 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
astjp2 Offline
master

Registered: 01/18/11
Posts: 4128
Loc: Utah and Alaska
In floor heat using a hot water tank and lots of pex. Paint the floor BEFORE you move in. Insulate, insulate, insulate! Also build the largest building you can afford. I am trying to get a 50x80x16 in my back yard this summer. Tim
_________________________
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta

I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!

Top
#2426527 - 12/31/17 02:56 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
*Build as large as you possibly can, never too big, always too small
*Build a floor drain into the concrete
*Radiant heat floors are ABSOLUTELY worth the cost in a cold climate
*Highest and widest doors allowable (14' minimum will allow pretty much any motor home, etc.)
*Commercial trusses for safer second story storage weight and snow load capacity
*Commercial style walls (6-8" wide horizontal gerts) for deeper roll in insulation
*The most insulation you can afford on walls and cielings

That's the big stuff, when you get into finish work there's a whole other list
.02



Top
#2426579 - 12/31/17 03:43 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
topside Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 11941
Loc: So Near, Yet So Far
All good advice so far, having built several of them. Scott's place is a work-palace, very well done.
Agonize over, and plan, ingress/egress (drive-throughs are great if you have room), lift placement, storage vs parking vs parts space.
Measurements that take advantage of common or sheet sizes, less work & expense.
110V Power outlets along walls, maybe 8' apart. Multiple 220V outlets.
Ceiling fan to redirect warm air down.
Avoid snowfall coming off roof in front of doors if at all possible.
Haunt your local Home Depot for sales on windows & such; from cancelled orders you can get the stuff for a fraction of its retail price.
Air compressor placement that won't drive you nuts or bother neighbors, and proper wall piping & outlets will reduce having hoses all over.

Top
#2426611 - 12/31/17 04:28 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4115
Loc: fredericksburg,va
One thing I regret after getting mine built (40-60 National Pole Barn) was not doing a room truss. I had assumed only a 4-12 pitch roof was available, after it was done I mentioned the room truss, then the workers said, yea we have done quite a few. The company asked a lot of questions but not that.
They used plastic sleaves on all the 6x6 & 6x8 posts up to one ft out of ground, no dirt to post contact. Make sure the building is square, I had to rack mine back about 4 inches. I kept the cable tight till I had the 4x8 plywood ceiling up (I think 66 sheets). Make it at least 12 ft ceilings, 14 is better but harder to heat. Make the doors match up from end to end for drive through. Use good lighting. Two 110 window AC units cool in the summer and an 130,000 btu oil furnace for the winter. Got down to 32 in there yesterday, first time I left it on at nite ever (ten years). Get an alarm,motion detectors and cameras that hook into your I phone in real time. Nice to say, get the hell off my property, while you're at work.

Top
#2426612 - 12/31/17 04:28 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
savoy64 Offline
top fuel

Registered: 09/07/11
Posts: 1769
Loc: colorado
get a concrete grinder and polish the floor with it----better than any sealer or paint

Top
#2426633 - 12/31/17 04:49 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
Quote:
get a concrete grinder and polish the floor with it----better than any sealer or paint


A polished floor will still soak up oil, sealer helps but won't work on long term oil leaks etc. Use the best sealer money can buy. .02

Top
#2426643 - 12/31/17 05:01 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ruderunner Offline


Registered: 12/18/14
Posts: 1802
Loc: ohio
High ceilings in case you want a lift later

Ceiling fans to push the heat down

I went r30 in walls and ceilings.

Drywall that's been taped to keep the heat in.

Big doors, I went 10w*12h

Loft storage is ok but a hassle with high ceilings, I don't use mine.

Top
#2426648 - 12/31/17 05:12 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: savoy64]
peabodyracing Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/01/07
Posts: 1913
Loc: Minnesota
Top already mentioned snow in front of doors. Let me expand on that a bit based on my own experience.

Don't bother with sliding doors if you can avoid them. Tough to secure and seal well for heating and just keeping crap from blowing in over time.

If you have to go with a sliding door, and it's along the eaves side of the building, you'll find snow slides off the roof, freezes and renders the door useless till things thaw, or you go out and try and chip it free. Regardless of where it's placed, you're out there all the time trying to keep the snow from accumulating where the door needs to slide.

I had double sliding doors along the 'long' side of my last pole barn, built well before I bought the place. They were great for getting big things in and out. Once winter set in, there was no hope of getting them open again.

One July a very bad storm hit. Still some debate on whether it actually was a tornado or not. The winds blew the double doors in and literally lifted 138' feet of pole barn in the air, dropping the roof and one wall 300' feet away. It took out my barn roof on the way by. Took me forever to clean up the debris. I'm convinced had those doors not been there the building would have survived just fine.

Any time I'll build one in the future it will have good quality, roll up doors on it, and definitely one at each end.

Pay attention to how the builder secures the trusses to the poles. I've seen some very well done and one where they literally just nailed the truss to the side of the poles. I wondered about snow load capabilities when it's just a bunch of nails holding things together.

Finally, I would insist they use screws with gaskets to secure all panels on the outside. Years back I had a builder who insisted on nailing the roof panels but use screws on the sides. After 2-3 years I round myself walking the roof every couple years to try and reseal nails that have moved over time, allowing a leak. I wish I'd insisted on his using screws.

Just thought of another caution: the ridge vent approach. If you're not sealing the place up and heating it, you may be tempted to go with the clear plastic (or the opaque)vent a ridge. Selling point is lots of natural light and great ventilation.

If this is the case, I went with the clear plastic which was supposed to last forever, and the foam vented seals running along the gap between the cap and the roof sheeting.

The place has been up 10 years now and the plastic is failing badly. On windy, snowy days, snow makes it in through the foam seals and I find a line of snow the full length of the barn from 1/8" to 1" deep depending on total snow fall. This tends to get me excited when I've cars parked down the center of the building.

In summer, on warm days, the sun beating in builds up more heat inside the building than I'd like. I find myself keeping the cars covered to protect them from UV, even though they're inside. Seems stupid.

In spring I am tearing it all up and redoing it with something better.

Good luck with the project. Fun to watch them go up!



_________________________
Lead, follow or get the hell out of the way

Top
#2426671 - 12/31/17 05:45 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
1971 Gran Coupe Offline


Registered: 02/10/14
Posts: 1018
Loc: Washington/Las Vegas
Scott covered the major items for sure and I would definitely do what ever it takes to get in floor heating and can be used for cooling if designed that way. I would have put a man door on each end of the structure. I have 2 doors with a provision for a third on the one end, but neglected the small walk door.

Most codes require treated wood where it comes in contact with the ground, so that is an easy to do. Install the wall girts horizontal instead of vertical so you can flush the wall with the posts and have a full 6" of wall insulation.

Some cover the wall with OSB, some with drywall, and some use both, osb first for strength, then drywall over the osb for fire protection.

I did install a 2 ton mini split for ac and it works great. It is a heat pump as well, but when it hits around 35, it is not very efficient.

Top
#2426672 - 12/31/17 05:48 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
LTDan Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 12745
Loc: Gloucester,VA STOP MOVING HERE
I put my building up about 10 years ago, its a 30X40 from Carter Lumber.

I regret not doing high enough ceilings for a lift. As I'm aging, I realize more and more that crawling around underneath cars really sucks.

A water line would have been nice too.

I am really happy that I put enough power to run an exhaust fan, a welder and an air compressor
_________________________
69 Charger
71 Road Runner
71 Satellite sedan
77 Grand Prix
82 Delta 88
83 Malibu 9C1
87 Grand National
10 Challenger R/T

Top
#2426680 - 12/31/17 06:03 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
lilcuda Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/23/07
Posts: 330
Loc: Northern California
Spend some time on the Garage Journal forum. Tons of info there.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

Top
#2426684 - 12/31/17 06:07 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: Neil]
oldjonny Offline
top fuel

Registered: 02/12/07
Posts: 1905
Loc: Michigan
Originally Posted By Neil
I once helped a guy out with the drawings for a garage/studio using pole barn framing and could not figure out why you would want to expose the wood support structure to the soil. If it ever rots how would you fix it?

In this area if you see anyone who has a separate garage or shop in the back yard it's typically built the same way the house is except it has a concrete floor slab instead of wood floor joists and a crawl space.

Also seen guys pour their own slab on grade floor and then buy a metal building "kit" and install it on top. Those go up fast, but don't know what the costs are.


EXACTLY...there is a guy here in Michigan that makes a living fixing pole structures where the wood has rotted out below grade. It cost more, but I did block walls 4' up and then stick built. Did not want to deal with a rotten structure. The 'quality' of todays treated lumber would definitely make me not want to use it.
_________________________
Never, ever argue with an IDIOT. They will drag you to their level and then beat you with their years of experience

Top
#2426695 - 12/31/17 06:27 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: 1971 Gran Coupe]
amxautox Online   content
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96508
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
Originally Posted By 1971 Gran Coupe
Scott covered the major items for sure and I would definitely do what ever it takes to get in floor heating and can be used for cooling if designed that way. I would have put a man door on each end of the structure. I have 2 doors with a provision for a third on the one end, but neglected the small walk door.

Yup. 2 people doors, one on the back end. One on the side sorta in line with the house door. I don't need one on the front end.

The 2 front vehicle roll up doors are 16' wide each. They take up almost all of the 40' width of the building. The 1 rear roll up door is 20' wide. There is plenty of room in the corner for the bigger air compressor. Also along that side of the building is where I have all my big equipment - sand blaster, drill press, solvent tank, table, shelves. The smaller air compressor is in the corner where the people door is. The people door is right next to the vehicle door, leaving the whole corner for stuff and junk, refrigerator, and shelving. That side of the garage is where I have shelves, desk, tool boxes on rollaways, etc.


Attachments
inside 1.jpg

rear.jpg

outside front.jpg




Edited by amxautox (12/31/17 06:39 PM)
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


Top
#2426704 - 12/31/17 06:36 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
Agreed, I have two 18' wide doors, one at each send inline with each other, and one 12' door on the long wall facing the house so you can drive straight in from the street. I use the street facing door the most but having both ends openable makes a HUGE difference when needed.

Top
#2426708 - 12/31/17 06:43 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: amxautox]
amxautox Online   content
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96508
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
I also wired the 2 lights over the vehicles in from the front doors on their own switch. When the doors are open, those lights are worthless, so didn't want them on when the 'second bay' lights are on, which I use almost all the time, but very seldom use the 2 lights over the vehicles in the first bay. The center light in the first bay is wired into the second bay's lights. Each bay has it's own switch for the lights.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


Top
#2426735 - 12/31/17 07:13 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
justinp61 Offline
master

Registered: 10/01/03
Posts: 9409
Loc: W. Kentucky
I built mine in 07, 36 X 54 with 12' walls, two overhead doors 10 X 10 and 10 X 12w and two man doors, small bathroom and office, 26 T8 4' lights in the shop area on four circuits, plenty of receptacles. It's insulated but has no ceiling, the overhead doors are insulated steel industrial quality. It also is heated and has A/C. I also framed up 8' walls between the posts and covered with blandex that is painted white.

Things I would've done different.
Installed radiant heat in the floor.
Installed a ceiling, white metal.
All receptacles would be 4' off the floor.
Added welder plugs on the other end of the shop
Built bigger!

I'm thinking about adding 24 X 36 and it's going to cost almost as much as the original building cost in 07. I have the roof metal to build a 20' shed the full length of the building but haven't done it yet.

Top
#2426737 - 12/31/17 07:13 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4115
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Use conduit wiring, easy to change or add on. I have 36 4 gang recepticals around the walls #12 wire, all on ground faults, either# 8 or 10 for the 220, welders-compressors. #4 (might be bigger) going to the 50 hp roto-phase converter for 3 phase (made a panel box for that). Vepco wanted $34,000 to run me 3 phase, not! from a 10,000 volt 3ph line on my property 250 ft away! Make sure you have at least 200 amp coming in with its own meter, not off the house.


Edited by cudaman1969 (12/31/17 07:17 PM)

Top
#2426755 - 12/31/17 07:28 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
grancuda Offline
super stock

Registered: 04/28/06
Posts: 809
Loc: Central US
Built mine right at a year ago & had a 30x40 built.

It's got concrete floor
10' walls
3 scissor truss on the south side for a future lift
16' door centered on one 40' side
10' door 5' from the corner on the north on the opposite 40' side
40'x 10' concrete pad on the 40' side with the 16' door

Only thing I would change is the 10' door, I would like it to be 16', pulling thru with a boat at any angle is tight thru that 10' door.

I have no insulation & no power. I ran (4) 4' LED shop lights off 1 power cord to a $500 RV style quiet generator. I may be out there 1 day a month working on stuff so I just thing running power out there & putting a meter in & the cost of wiring is just a little much for how much I work out of it.

Here is a video I put together if it going up.

https://youtu.be/1uRi4dbS3YU
_________________________
1967 Barracuda Formula S 383
1969 Dart Custom 2dr HT 440
1972 D1oo SWB 360
1980 Macho Power Wagon LWB 318
2010 Ford Raptor 6.2L

Top
#2426779 - 12/31/17 07:43 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
OhioMopar Offline
master

Registered: 08/17/03
Posts: 8086
Loc: Mt.Gilead, Ohio
1) Make it big.
2) Finish it before winter hits.


Attachments
garagemahal01.jpg


_________________________

Looking for my original 383 block. Last seen around the Atlanta area. 7449 are the last 4 of the VIN.

Top
#2426826 - 12/31/17 08:29 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
plumcrazycuda Offline
top fuel

Registered: 12/14/03
Posts: 1708
Loc: PA
Lots of good points so far. What I am planning is a 50x80x16 with 4 12x14 doors on the long wall . I would love to have it a drive through but the land will not let it. I would have to go much smaller and it still would be tight. So with the door on the side is there anything I can do to make it better? With the heat in the floor do you have to run it all the time? I was thinking I would put the radiant over head heat.
_________________________


70 Cuda
73 barracuda
73 Barracuda
Looking for my build sheet or fender tag for my 70 Cuda Vin BS23H0B438517. Please look in your Blue on Blue Cuda or Challenger for the build sheet. My car was built in 7/70.

Top
#2426894 - 12/31/17 10:47 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
4x4 Roundup Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/06/10
Posts: 395
Loc: Middle TN.
Use 2x6's laid flat on top of the trusses to attach roofing to. Most buildings are built with 2x4's toenailed upright on the trusses leaving only a precarious 1 5/8" to hit the center of to attach roofing metal. And keep in mind that the 2x4's continue to warp over time. That is the main cause of leaks and the insulation makes them even more difficult to find. I've got one done both ways and the additional expense is small in the total scheme of things IMO. wave twocents
_________________________
WANTED-- DEAD or ALIVE:
'70 Duster VS29H0B274908
'79 Power Wagon W14JE9S137761 or 763

Top
#2426896 - 12/31/17 11:05 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
1971 Gran Coupe Offline


Registered: 02/10/14
Posts: 1018
Loc: Washington/Las Vegas
I would not have the roof perlins laid flat, there is no strength for any snow load at all, and it looks like you are in the PA area = lots of snow. On both of my buildings, 2x8's were used with joist hangers.

Also, have your vehicle door on the gable end. You don't want the snow to slide off in front of the door. Yes, I have seen some who have done this.

Floor systems can use a mix of water and glycol base for freezing areas.

Top
#2426899 - 12/31/17 11:11 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
Kidsixpack Offline


Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 5646
Loc: Detroit
Lots of great ideas listed I’m still working on the list snide but I can tell you that LED’s are the way to go. The price has come down quite a bit.
KID


Attachments
39941AD4-DF83-4206-8E16-0F1549D7E4A9.jpeg


_________________________

www.sixpacksuperbee.homestead.com

This pic. is before the resto.
V2 Hemi orange 69 1/2 Super Bee black buckets console 4spd radio delete.
1989 Turbo Trans Am
1987 Buick GN 11,000 miles

Top
#2426906 - 12/31/17 11:21 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
Mr. Smurf Offline
super stock

Registered: 03/08/07
Posts: 943
Loc: Mid Michigan
Not a fan of 8' or 9' truss spacing, the 2x4 purlins stood on edge will sag. I've seen it on older Morton buildings.

Menards does the 9' spacing and their trusses have no overhang, you have to build it. Takes a lot of extra labor. The wide truss spacing is also a pita for people to move around in the attic when building.

My parents put this up 2 years ago, I've been slowly finishing off the inside.
36' x 40' with a 10' lean-to.

Ed


Attachments
20161012_152251.jpg



Top
#2426907 - 12/31/17 11:22 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
astjp2 Offline
master

Registered: 01/18/11
Posts: 4128
Loc: Utah and Alaska
Hire it done! They will have to meet all codes and permitting requirements, it pays for them to have the headaches. Also if you are in a fire zone, have they put sheet rock on the roof...2 layers of 5/8 before the outer sheetmetal is put on.
_________________________
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta

I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!

Top
#2426911 - 12/31/17 11:30 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
Mine has a door on a non gable end, and it did indeed pile snow in front of the door, added sno brakes this fall and it fixed the problem.

Top
#2426916 - 12/31/17 11:40 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
amxautox Online   content
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96508
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
Snow???

Dec. 26th 2008 first picture. Dec. 27th other 3 pictures.


Attachments
Image001.jpg

Image003.jpg

Image002.jpg

Image006 pathway.jpg


_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


Top
#2426919 - 12/31/17 11:54 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23829
Loc: Oregon
Use radiant floor heat. Insulate it. Put in a bunch of lights and plenty of outlets. Polish the floor so it is easy to keep clean. Eaves on the sides and overhangs on each end make it nice for loading/unloading in the rain. An overhead crane is really, really nice to have. Enough height for a two post lift is also really, really nice to have if you are going to be working on cars a lot.


Attachments
DSC_7470 (Large).JPG




Edited by AndyF (12/31/17 11:56 PM)

Top
#2426928 - 01/01/18 12:15 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: AndyF]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4115
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By AndyF
Use radiant floor heat. Insulate it. Put in a bunch of lights and plenty of outlets. Polish the floor so it is easy to keep clean. Eaves on the sides and overhangs on each end make it nice for loading/unloading in the rain. An overhead crane is really, really nice to have. Enough height for a two post lift is also really, really nice to have if you are going to be working on cars a lot.

I'm ashamed to say mine is to dirty and cluttered to show, would you like to come clean it up? I'll even pay! LOL

Top
#2426931 - 01/01/18 12:22 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
I agree with Andy, polishing the concrete adds a nice feel to it and is easier to clean up, I sweep my floor with a micro fiber. Polish isn't high gloss, just polished to 200 grit (for better traction).


Attachments
20170301_183602.jpg



Top
#2426964 - 01/01/18 04:59 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
toplescuda Offline
I Whine

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 8550
Loc: poplar bluff mo.
Mine is a 30x50 stick built. I did a few things way diggernt...one was..
I had a 4 foot tall concreat wall all around. Then stick built on top
...i can power wash and don't have to worry ever about water on bottom of my walls....
2. I had my doors on the side instead of the end...inhave way more space then my buddy 30x50. That has to move cars around to get something out
30 foot deep will clear any car and most trailers if have to
Being that my doors are on the side. I did a split height roof. 30v30 of it has a 8 foot tall ceiling. 20c30 part. Is 12 foot ceiling for lift
Wall and walk in door separating the 2 "rooms" low side is very easy to heat
Trusses made for open floor and I can store stuff in attic
3. Have the floor ever so slightly back side higher so water if have to run out the doors (front)...no drain or squdgie needed
4. Floor at least 6 inches higher then outside grade. So pads cantapper even to ground. Hard rain wing back fill into the shop. My pads are 16 long with a 7 inch end to end different. And if down pour it still will seep under door seal
5 no windows. People can't steal what they can't see
6 insulate the [censored] out of it"think over kill" do it one time and never think about it again
7..wall outlets...ovet kill again
I have my 220 on decided wall with outlet on both sides. My welded or plasma will reach anywhere in the building from those 2 outlets
8. Light. As many as you can afford lol
9. Just me but I prefer light switches that have little light in them. Easy to see when it's pitch black
10. Motion light that comes on as you walk to your walk in door....when dark on walking ton and away from shop late at night....or nothen else easy to tell anyone/anything near your shop entrance
11. Make that [censored] as b8g as you can afford...Now.. as every single person has said. This will be big enuff...well everyone knows how that went
_________________________
1970 barracuda convert. 1 of 59
1970 pro street A.A.R. clone (panther pink)
1971 charger
2015 hellcat challenger. Redline red
2014 quad cab 4x4 ram 8 speed hemi

Top
#2426965 - 01/01/18 05:06 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
toplescuda Offline
I Whine

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 8550
Loc: poplar bluff mo.
Mine


Attachments
Screenshot_2015-10-18-17-20-47.png


_________________________
1970 barracuda convert. 1 of 59
1970 pro street A.A.R. clone (panther pink)
1971 charger
2015 hellcat challenger. Redline red
2014 quad cab 4x4 ram 8 speed hemi

Top
#2426966 - 01/01/18 05:08 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
toplescuda Offline
I Whine

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 8550
Loc: poplar bluff mo.
..


Attachments
2014-03-12_14.08.03.jpg


_________________________
1970 barracuda convert. 1 of 59
1970 pro street A.A.R. clone (panther pink)
1971 charger
2015 hellcat challenger. Redline red
2014 quad cab 4x4 ram 8 speed hemi

Top
#2426976 - 01/01/18 06:48 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
70HemiGTX Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 2088
Loc: PA
Don't use poles. Dig a footer and lay up a foundation. Get a course or two of blocks abovd the ground. Then use 2"x6" or 8" Studs. Make a box frame that is 4' wide and however tall. Go with 12' ceilings. Big enough for a lift. Nail the frames to together and you have a stronger stud than a pole or 4"x4". Plus pay attention as to how you make them and they won't twist or bend. Insulate!

Put radiant heat in the floor. Water heater or small propane furnace (what I have) works great. Beats hearing a loud fan from a blower heater.

Enjoy it.

Oh yea....put a restroom in it. Your wife will thank you many times over.....

Top
#2427017 - 01/01/18 10:08 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
Stanton Offline
master

Registered: 10/13/05
Posts: 6515
Loc: Ontario, Canada
I built a small washroom that has a laundry tub so I can wash large parts when necessary. It has a crapper but because of the length of the run and slope I don't want it clogging up so its for taking a leak only. The compressor is also in there so the noise doesn't drive me crazy in the shop.

When I crunched the numbers the cost of a pole barn versus standard construction was very close and I figured the inside is easier to finish with standard stick frame construction. I was also on a tight budget so I had to chose between a larger shop or in floor heating so I went for the larger shop. Didn't get heat in for a few more years! I used "attic" trusses which give me a lot of extra storage space. I initially installed a lot of light bulbs (budget) but a few years back I upgraded to florescents. The bulbs should just about be reaching their end of life so I'm considering replacing all those with LED fixtures which throw an amazing amount of light,last forever and cost even less to run.

Top
#2427070 - 01/01/18 11:23 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: 70HemiGTX]
hooziewhatsit Offline
master

Registered: 10/05/07
Posts: 2741
Loc: State of Jefferson
Originally Posted By 70HemiGTX
Oh yea....put a restroom in it. Your wife will thank you many times over.....


I know a guy who knows a guy... who just put a urinal on one of the walls. No walls around it, since he's usually the only one out there. smirk
_________________________
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.

Top
#2427092 - 01/01/18 11:39 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: hooziewhatsit]
oldjonny Offline
top fuel

Registered: 02/12/07
Posts: 1905
Loc: Michigan
In floor heat has been mentioned here multiple times. In my opinion, that is the ONLY way to go EVER. For me, I will never own another house or barn without it. Yes, it costs more, but functionally there is nothing better going.

Over the holidays we were in and out of multiple houses for family events. I can tell within minutes of being in a forced air heated house that it is not in-floor. I have it in my whole house (Main floor and basement, as well as the garage). I am in Michigan dealing with the bitter cold. 2450sq.ft. main floor, 2600sq.ft. basement and a three car garage kept at 52 degrees....total gas bill last month (I have a 21 year old daughter that takes tremendously long showers as well) was $97.

I have buddies that burn wood with hot water register heat and even they agree that for what I pay in gas, they also would not burn wood had they gone the route I did when I built.

Spend your money on insulation and a good heating system. You will not regret it.
_________________________
Never, ever argue with an IDIOT. They will drag you to their level and then beat you with their years of experience

Top
#2427270 - 01/01/18 02:56 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
SSAHfan Offline
mopar

Registered: 01/27/06
Posts: 624
Loc: B.C.
A lot of very good info in this thread.

Scott, what brand is the 4 post lift in your pic?

Top
#2427300 - 01/01/18 03:39 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
astjp2 Offline
master

Registered: 01/18/11
Posts: 4128
Loc: Utah and Alaska
The OP wants a 50x80x16, too big for an open floor stick built building, either a steel building or pole barn are the options. Tim
_________________________
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta

I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!

Top
#2427343 - 01/01/18 04:36 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: astjp2]
oldjonny Offline
top fuel

Registered: 02/12/07
Posts: 1905
Loc: Michigan
Originally Posted By astjp2
The OP wants a 50x80x16, too big for an open floor stick built building, either a steel building or pole barn are the options. Tim


Why? I did a 40x80x16 stick built. Why the limits?
_________________________
Never, ever argue with an IDIOT. They will drag you to their level and then beat you with their years of experience

Top
#2427420 - 01/01/18 06:57 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
astjp2 Offline
master

Registered: 01/18/11
Posts: 4128
Loc: Utah and Alaska
Cost
_________________________
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta

I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!

Top
#2427435 - 01/01/18 07:30 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: astjp2]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23829
Loc: Oregon
Mine is steel with a 50 foot span and the beams hold up the 1 ton bridge crane. You probably can't do that with wood unless you used a huge glue lam beam. I really like the bridge crane since I don't need to wheel a engine hoist around the shop. It added some cost to the building but not a lot since it was designed in at the start.

Top
#2427541 - 01/01/18 10:31 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8097
Loc: Rogue River, OR
As said above if you can afford it go steel truss. Unlike diamonds they are forever.

Top
#2427602 - 01/02/18 01:25 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
05dakota Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 17523
Loc: albany ny
here unless its hooked a municipal sewer you cant have a floor drain

quote=ScottSmith_Harms]*Build as large as you possibly can, never too big, always too small
*Build a floor drain into the concrete
*Radiant heat floors are ABSOLUTELY worth the cost in a cold climate
*Highest and widest doors allowable (14' minimum will allow pretty much any motor home, etc.)
*Commercial trusses for safer second story storage weight and snow load capacity
*Commercial style walls (6-8" wide horizontal gerts) for deeper roll in insulation
*The most insulation you can afford on walls and cielings

That's the big stuff, when you get into finish work there's a whole other list
.02


[/quote]
_________________________
66 ford mustang coupe. 01 mustang gt.06 mustang coupe .94 ford taurus sho.66 chrysler newport 2 dr .68 chrysler 300 vert .70 challenger r/t .73 dodge dart swinger. 74 cuda .91 chrysler lebaron vert.77 buick electra limited 5549 postonold board

Top
#2427628 - 01/02/18 07:23 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
DusterKid Offline
super stock

Registered: 01/02/05
Posts: 776
Loc: Keymar, MD
1. If you ever plan on a lift, make sure you make the ceiling high enough.
2. If you plan on heating or cooling at all, spend the money and have the building spray foamed. It cost about twice as much as batt insulation, but WELL worth the money. My father in law has a 60x100 with 18' ceiling. 1st year it didn't have the heat installed yet and we had a week straight of below freezing temps. We had a water bottle sitting right next to the door and it never froze.

Top
#2427651 - 01/02/18 08:44 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 41720
Loc: Spokane Washington
Floor drains are allowed here no matter what your sewer hood up is. That said I hooked my shop bathroom sewer to my house sewer via a Y connection (yes, you need to add a bathroom to my list!). It's legal to do that here and I did pull a permit to avoid any future flak.

If you do the radiant heat floor be sure to plan out and mark your lift leg areas out VERY well. I referenced the areas with marks on 2 walls so I could find them once the concrete was poured (double/tripple check your measurements!). You don't want to guess when drilling floor anchors. I went crazy and designed 2 foot deep 4'x 4' areas of solid reinforced concrete for mine.

Top
#2427686 - 01/02/18 09:49 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
MoparChuck Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/04/05
Posts: 225
Loc: Greencastle, PA
If you want a rally good builder at a good price call Franklin Builders 717-369-4833. They had my 40x118 building up in 2 weeks and did an excellent job. They don't take shortcuts and include all the little details that others leave out. My brother (EdB@Carlisle) had them build his big garage too.

I made mine with a clean/paint bay, work bay and a large cars/parts storage area. Insulate the garage well. I have a split system heat pump for the two bays. I used double doors between the bays and the storage area so it's easy to move large parts, engines, engine lift, etc. around. I have 12' ceilings. 14' required a special permit or something and I didn't need the extra 2'. I have a hydrant outside. I made the concrete thicker where I will put a lift. I installed a bunch of Champ floor pots so I can pull frames.

Chuck


Attachments
4.jpg

16.jpg




Edited by MoparChuck (01/02/18 09:52 AM)

Top
#2427692 - 01/02/18 10:00 AM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
DaytonaTurbo Offline


Registered: 02/26/03
Posts: 20731
Loc: Manitoba, Canada
Wider doors. I built mine with one standard 9' wide door. I figured here in MB winters can be agonizingly cold so less heat loss through a single, smaller door would be better. And since I don't use the building for parking daily drivers I could deal with the single door. However I am finding that backing a 8' wide trailer through a 9' wide door isn't a whole lot of fun.

Height. I initially built mine with only 8' ceilings because my last shop was 8' and it was fine for me and the lower height would help keep the heating cost under control. I decided after the fact that I might want to put in a lift some day. I used roof trusses that sit 8' on center so a car can be lifted between the trusses but a higher ceiling out have been better. If I ever buy a camper I won't be able to bring it inside to work on.

Top
#2427866 - 01/02/18 03:05 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
5thAve Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 2677
Loc: Posts: 4034 - Register...
My pole barn is 35-40 years old but was on a property I bought so I had nothing do to with building it. It's 40X80 and has large over hangs so I have not had much of a problem with sliding doors in winter but the areas do obviously need to be kept clear. There are a couple posts rotting at the ground that need to be replaced. I wanted to do that last year but didn't get around to it so that's a project for this year.
I had problem with snow and rain blowing into the ridge vent, the old seal was either gone or never done right to begin with so I had to fix that and replaced the nails with gasketed screws while I was up there. At the same time a large number of nails on the rest of the roof had pulled up a bit. I'm going to start replacing those with screws also.
It has been a bit of a learning curve with that building. When I put up another building I'd have to price different building types out and see what to go with, ultimately I do prefer something that has at least a proper foundation wall to avoid some of the issues that pole barns get over time.

Top
#2427928 - 01/02/18 04:36 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
65pacecar Offline
master

Registered: 12/23/03
Posts: 5373
Loc: KY
I have an insulated Engineered Steel building, steel trusses etc similar to the size you are considering. I have had great luck with it, as stated above the key is insulation, I have the factory option for insulation and it does a nice job, but I adding more before finishing the inside for good measure.

Top
#2428318 - 01/03/18 12:14 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: 65pacecar]
cudaboy340 Offline
super stock

Registered: 11/28/05
Posts: 747
Loc: Carlisle, PA
Also being in PA I didn't want my poles in the ground where they could rot so I went with PermaColumns which are pre-cast concrete columns that go in the ground and have a metal saddle on the top and the wooden posts bolt to the saddle. I'm so glad I pushed my builder to use them.

FYI, I'm Mopar Chuck's brother and I also used Franklin Builders out of Chambersburg. VERY happy with them and their work!

Ed



Edited by cudaboy340 (01/03/18 12:14 PM)

Top
#2428366 - 01/03/18 01:39 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: SSAHfan]
hotairballoonpilot Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 5126
Loc: South Dakota
DO NOT PUT THINGS IN IT UNTIL YOU HAVE THE INSIDE BUILT. Dad built his 40x60 building back in 1997. Things went in there right away as he moved onto the property after grandpa passed away. He went from a 4 stall garage with cars stored else where too. Once things went in there the inside has never been finished off and it is just cold storage now. He also has others tell him build it bigger. He response was if I run out of room then I don't need it. Well he bought a roll off 2 stall deep pre built garage to house 2 cars and he still has a truck sitting outside plus his trailers.

corey
_________________________
Contact Me about AMD Prices or about my wife's maternity store elegant mommy in Sioux falls south Dakota

Top
#2428369 - 01/03/18 01:44 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
astjp2 Offline
master

Registered: 01/18/11
Posts: 4128
Loc: Utah and Alaska
One thing about wooden posts, they only rot in an area that is about 6" below grade to 6" above grade, that is where the bacteria thrives that causes rot. so if the posts are protected in that area, little chance of rot. Tim
_________________________
1941 Taylorcraft
1968 Charger
1994 Wrangler
1998 Wrangler
2008 Kia Rio
2017 Jetta

I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!

Top
#2428400 - 01/03/18 03:05 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: astjp2]
Neil Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 12479
Loc: Eagle, Idaho
So what do you use to cover the poles? The one and only pole framed building I dealt with had nothing specific called for to protect the posts. I just thought "this isn't going to last" the whole time I worked on it.

Plastic sleeves maybe?

Top
#2428404 - 01/03/18 03:10 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: astjp2]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4115
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By astjp2
One thing about wooden posts, they only rot in an area that is about 6" below grade to 6" above grade, that is where the bacteria thrives that causes rot. so if the posts are protected in that area, little chance of rot. Tim

The very reason the builders installed the heavy plastic sleeves on my post, they're sealed at the bottom and extend out of ground about a foot. Today's pressure treat lumber is no way near what it was just ten years ago. The stuff that made them work was removed with the new regulations. It's too dangerous, well duh, that's what killed the buggs.

Top
#2428453 - 01/03/18 05:19 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: Neil]
DaytonaTurbo Offline


Registered: 02/26/03
Posts: 20731
Loc: Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted By Neil
So what do you use to cover the poles? The one and only pole framed building I dealt with had nothing specific called for to protect the posts. I just thought "this isn't going to last" the whole time I worked on it.

Plastic sleeves maybe?


Mine doesn't have anything either. I've been around some old pole buildings and really if it lasts longer than I do or long enough for me to sell the property I don't really care. If memory serves, pole barns are said to have a lifespan of around 50 years.

Top
#2428484 - 01/03/18 06:17 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: DaytonaTurbo]
farmboy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/25/07
Posts: 357
Loc: kansas
I used white corrugated metal on the ceiling and walls. Love my tube heater, cheap, quiet, and comfortable.

Top
#2429209 - 01/04/18 07:36 PM Re: The do’s and don’ts when building a pole building ? [Re: plumcrazycuda]
Hemi_Joel Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 5509
Loc: Minnesota
I you get big snow, build a 6/12 roof pitch instead of the standard 4/12. The snow slides right off and you never have to shovel it or risk a collapse.
_________________________

31 Plymouth Coupe, 392 Hemi, T56 magnum

Top
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >

Advertisement
Sponsored Link
Forum Stats
25,260 Registered Members
32 Forums
189,036 Topics
2,204,632 Posts

Most users ever online: 882 @ 03/05/17 10:15 PM
Moparts Newest Topics
DATA LOGGERS
by 1DGEMAN
04/26/18 03:43 PM
Deck or not:318?
by roadrunninMark
04/26/18 03:34 PM
What's the difference of Y91 and Y92 paint codes
by The Black Car
04/26/18 03:03 PM
87 Dodge Daytona Drag Car - $9000 (Fargo, ND)
by bigdad
04/26/18 02:43 PM