So have a 93 w150 with a 5.2 magnum, with the no start issue🤦‍♂️, seems these ecm are next to impossiable to get these days. Seeing how this is a obd1 and there is not much support for tuning would I be better off tring to convert to obd2 or a stand alone unit. I have a 96 1500 same driveline I could swap harness and computer from if it's a reasonable option. Just not much a fi guy so all new to me.

car-part is showing a ECM in connecticut. And while I would barely trust them since its cardone, rockauto does too.

Check for codes before spending bug bucks- Should get a 12 and a 55 minimum. If you get no codes, its bad wiring or bad ECM

You would be opening up a HUGE can of worms converting to OBD-2.But I could see it being done with FSMs for both 96 and 93. Seems easier to just find the problem first and spend 10 minutes if its the ECM.
EDIT: 94 and 95 ECM will run it, but it drive like you're running 5 psi on all the tires. I'm still working on the reason why

Was starting better warm but still hard, no relay click or check engine when crank and no start, relay would slowly start to click and check engine slowly light up and fire right up run perfect. Now no light or asd relay click on key or cranking. All new relays, dust pickup,and fuel pump and have ohm tested wires from computer, ground power and signal wires. Only get like .6 volts to coil and no spark. Crossed the cps and couldn't get it to sputter at all so all signs point to puter

100% your computer.

Got one coming from rockauto cardone only option guess I'll cross my fingers

So go to computer and started ran like a top, for 30 miles 😣 Started little hard but also has been below zero. Now I have spark from coil but nothing at the plugs, I hve the 2 sec power to coil on key then cranking I have power to coil, cap and rotor? The crank sensor would make it so it don't send power to coil correct?

So you're saying you have spark right at the coil if you hook a spark plug up direct but it's not making it's way through the distributor to the plugs?

Did you check for codes doing the key on/off cycling thing?

Yes plug in coil wire sparks plug at head will not, have check engine light with key on then goes out and key codes has none

Sounds like rotor burn through.

Sounds like its time for cap, rotor, and plug wires, maybe plugs as well? Gene

So new plugs,wires,cap and rotor and coil for good measure and still the same, cranks like there no plugs even in.

Could just be that the plugs/rings are fuel washed, pull the plugs and check 'em out. If they are wet, disable the coil and fuel pump or injectors and crank it over. It may be a good idea to check compression- after you've cleared the plugs out. Old engines can have other things go bad, like a jumped timing chain, so it's always good to verify compression wet and dry. HTH, Steve

Just baffling me ran fine and shut off and now won't restart

Computer should still show 12 and 55 as codes. If not, theres a problem. The cardones are not known for their high standards. I have like 9 ECMs from 88-93 lying around and they all have 12 and 55, some 33 and 37 and 45

I would check fuel pressure next- there should be a shrader valve for this on fuel rail

Double check fro spark. Visualize ignition coil- stock coil was wrapped in plastic- as the metal plates corrode, it will crack the plastic coating. Look for those cracks- usually hard to see.

I know its not fun working on these things in this cold. I have a tractor gelled up in the middle of the woods

Oddly with key even after computer I can't get it to flash

Fuel pump is Hooked to keyed power so not running threw ecm, tried some ether and wouldn't even start to pick up on it and ya -30 wind sucked changeing parts

Yes it is, but the ASD relay on these likes to die also. One more thing to rule out and be thorough, whether codes or not.

This is where I would be looking. With the key first in the run position, does the check engine light come on? It's supposed to as a visual check that the light is working. If you can't get the light on or codes to flash you have a problem. You should always be able to get the code 55 which means end of sequence. If not I would be checking at the computer to see if you're getting ground, constant power and switched power.

You're only getting 0.6 volts to the coil? I assume that reading was taken with the coil connected? The coil itself may be shorted. Those Magnum coils are notorious for failing here in the rust belt. Salt causes the coil laminations to rust, and as they rust, they expand. Eventually, the laminations expand to the point they crack the epoxy encapsulation of the coil. At that point, water gets into the coil and shorts it out. Carefully inspect the coil for cracks.