Here's the issue. 1992 Ramcharger 318 magnum-started fine all year until late October. Replaced fuel pump since the the cheap discount one I put in 2 years ago seemed to stop working after I ran the tank down. Still minimal fuel pressure at the rail. Started, but ran on 2 cylinders (it felt like). Gave it a tune up since the plugs were fouled(plugs, wires, cap rotor). Still won't start right. FuEl pump relay clicking on and off continuously-if I pump gas and hold the pedal down 1/4 it will eventually fire on a couple cylinders, and usually smooth out after a while. Afraid to run it since it died while on a test drive.

Replaced fuel pump, asd and fuEl pump relays, distributor pickup, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Where is the parasitic draw that is kicking that relay? What am I missing? I'm going nuts with this since I have to park it on the street and don't have place to store it yet.

Any gurus out there that may know something about electronic issues with theseveral old bombers? I have about 240,000 miles on it so far.

Check the fuel pressure of your new fuel pump. Its unfortunate, but these days, new does not necessarily mean its good. If the fuel pressure is low, it won't start or run worth a darn.

The next thing I would check would be where the fuel pump wires pass through the bulkhead connector. A little corrosion on those wires will cause a lot of problems. Dakota's of that era had a problem with the wire junction under the battery box for the wires that supplied power to the coil, crank sensor and dist pickup. That junction would be heavily corroded and the wires would break off giving a no start condition. Maybe the junction on your truck is just badly corroded and is causing incorrect readings for the computer. Gene

When you said rapidly clicking relay, I immediately thought of a ECM problem. For some reason on the 92-93 trucks a capacitor fails and creates a no start condition when under 55 or so. I've had 2 fail like that on my 92. Easy to test:
1.turn ignition on and see if check engine light comes on. it should as part of the test sequence of the ECM
2. Can also warm up the ECM with a hair dryer or similar- if it starts right up, you found the problem

Otherwise, a loose/corroded connection is next

Had one doing the same thing you're describing..it was the ECM.

The check engine light doesn't come on until after I crank it a whole bunch. Dunno if on-off of the ignition switch helps or not, but eventually the light lights up and flickers with the rapidly actuating relay. I hold the pedal down about 1/2, keep cranking, and eventually it starts, sounds like it's firing on 1 cylinder, and during each firing event, the check engine light goes on and off. Eventually it smooths out, the light stays off, and it runs fine, although it idles a little low. Craziest crap I've ever seen. Sounds like an ECM?

And a big thank you to everyone who replied! It all helps!

Textbook for bad capacitor in ECM. need to fix it or replace or use a hair dryer to warm it every day. Model years are 92-93 with 5.2. Can run 94-95 but it wont run right.

Somewhere on the net is instructions of how to fix it on a jeep site. not for the faint of heart or those who struggle with precise soldering

I agree about it being the PCM as I worked at a Dodge dealer for 24 years and seen the PCM do that a few times. Also make sure all the grounds are good and the PCM grounds. Good luck , Ron