440 electronic ignition occasionally shuts down for a few seconds on hard acceleration. As if you turned the ignition on and off for a second. Thinking it was electrical I replaced the coil. No difference. Replaced ignition switch no difference. Thinking possible fuel starvation put high volume fuel pump in. Still have the problem. Only thing left I can think of at this point is ignition module or distributor issues. Any suggestions would be great.

The carb is adjusted correctly?

Run it up to the same RPM in your driveway & mash the throttle & see if you have an immediate accel pump squirt/& of sufficient duration. there would not be the same (fuel) demand as on the road but it'd be a VG start especially to see how the AP is acting. & in your driveway with your light hooked up, floor it & see if it stops blinking. Holler back.

A bad ground to one of the electrical components could act that way. I chased one of those for a bit a while ago...

float level? fuel slosh? accelerator pump/lever adjustment? mechanical/vacuum advance?

It's vacuum advance. It's dissent do this all the time so it's hard to reproduce in the driveway but I will take your advise and check. As far as a ground goes....my amp gauge tends to jump around erratically at idle. Could be a bad ground effecting the ignition as well?

I'm with Dayclona in checking carb float level.

Will check it tomorrow and get back......thanks

hi
hi vol mech fuel pump may not cure starvation ,

depends on restriction to, before , fuel bump.

you may still need an elect pusher at the tank !

Check the connections on all the slide on electrical connectors for corrosion
Higher RPM demands more current to fire the coil and ECU which can lead to high resistance connection going open like a switch turned off Higher heat from more current flow has more resistance
Something on the ignition side is going open when held at WOT under a load long enough to create this problem
I've seen this before years ago on a race car that was stored inside from PA

Sounds like you may be describing a tip in stumble? Which is generally caused by a lean condition, lean conditions can be caused by carburetion or timing events.

Basics of tuning any engine is always Ignition 1st then carburetion.

Once it catches again does it haul the mail?

What Ignition Box coil combo are you running?

Is this a Vacuum secondary or mechanical carb? (brand and Part Number?)

Initial timing?

Vacuum canister hooked up? Which port, constant or Ported?

What does the idle timing come up to at idle when you connect the Vacuum can to the carb/manifold?

What's the total timing in the motor with no Vac connected and at what RPM?

Cam duration at 50?

Compression ratio?

Rear end Gear?

727 Trans? What stall speed on the convertor?

I had that issue once in one of my Chargers under hard acceleration once in a great while it would just cut out like you turned off the ignition. It turned out to be the bulkhead connector in the firewall. Engine torque must have pulled on the engine harness just enough to cause the issue. Once I figured it out pulled everything apart, cleaned all of the connections, dielectric greased all of the connections & put it back together. Been good ever since.

Fuel slosh as stated above. On hard acceleration gas in the front bowl will slam back toward the metering plate and vent tube. It will run up the vent tube and into the carb causing a massive bog, just like shutting the engine off for a second. Here's a pic of the cure, a hose connecting the front & rear tubes. This keeps the fuel from dumping into the primaries fixing your problem. Smart drag racers figured this out years ago.

^^^ & iirc you cut a notch in the hose at the top of the curve for venting.

Yes, you can see the notch in the top of the hose.

will that carb accept a baffle?

I agree with 6PKRTSE.. Please check the bulkhead connection at the Firewall First... Then Check your ECU...
My car did it at the track and another racer came over and we found the connection was poor and burnt.
I repaired it and on the next run my car screamed like never before.
I too changed everything you did.
Even tried different carbs, You name it.
Turned out to be simple connections at the bulkhead.
Many racers bypass the factory harness connectors and run a independent wire through.
Years later at the track a guy running a 4 speed Duster launched his car and it died. After getting it towed back I remembered what happened to me and went over and offered the advise.
He checked it and the chassis had flexed enough the wires where not touching!
repaired and it fired right up.
Before this he said it did the same as you described..
Just my input on this.
Of course check your ECU too...
Grant Eaton.