Hi Guys,

Bouncing around the idea of building a Mini mod for Pulling. Engine rules are:

All small block engines at 380ci max with either 671 at 30% overdrive or 871 at 20% overdrive.
Single turbo at 83mm.

Need around 1200-1300hp and try and keep the engine as light as possible.

What the best options here for us Mopar guys?


Thanks,

Doug

is the gen 3 hemi considered a small block? a 6.1 is 370cid and Mopar has an aluminum block.

What block are you using

This! A 5.7 .020 over with a 3.9 stroke. 379 cid.

That would be perfect for him... they are strong
and fairly light

Ok so can we make 1200-1300hp with a gen 3 Hemi and the turbo or blower set ups that my class is allowed?

And yes they do consider the Gen 3 hemi as a smallblock

Doesn't matter because i'm starting fresh. So what ever block i need to do what i want.

Ritter makes an AL. small block that can be configured for just about any available small block head that you want to use. It is pricey though. But It'll take loads of HP.

Dizuster talked to Rob Goss last year. We were told a stock block with good caps will live at that power level. I believe the stopck forged crank will live as well. If anybody would know it's him. He had a run of blocks done that are good to north of 2000hp.
Doug

Just brainstorming because I don't have the means or knowledge to build something like this.

For the shortblock you could straight up buy a 6.2 Hellcat shortblock from a dealership, but the powdered metal rods might be an issue at your power levels.

The lighter option would be the 6.1 Aluminum block and whatever combination of rotating assembly is the strongest.

Heads the Thiteks would be the top choice, or the 6.4 BGE heads. Hellcat heads have a different intake pattern and I doubt anyone makes a blower manifold.

No clue about which power adder, looking at the charts on the mopar tech archive http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/57.html a 20% 8-71 hitting around 25psi should be there, but I know there is more to it then that.

83mm will make 1300hp with its eyes closed...

Can you run a billet wheel? What other limitations?

Correct a stock 6.4L block with forged rotating assy. should hold up no problem.

Would a third gen make power power than say a 9.2 R3 Block?

I'm thinking big power turbo too but I got a 48 degree block at the ready.

I don’t know at what horsepower level Rob started having issues but I know he was sure splitting his share of them apart. If I was starting off with a clean sheet like you are with zero inventory I would jump into the gen 3’s and never look back. R3’s are to rare and the Ritter block have to many unanswered questions if you could get a usable block in a reasonable amount of time. Get the best gen3 block you can afford and build it from there

They have a 48Deg Deep skirt version I'm told might go to 2000hp.

At least its a proven item, and pricey

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P5007905AB/10002/-1

A8 block and a good set of W9's would be light! I would say with a cooler and turbo (35+ lbs) of boost you would be into the 2000hp range.

Just think of a Sprint Car Engine with a turbo.

Good luck finding one.. I had one but sold it about 12
years ago.. plus the timing gears and that set up is
even harder to find

The newer a8 blocks are not deep skirted, and from what I've found and been told they won't hold up very long at 1300 horse.

This one has been for sale for a while.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/pts/d/aluminum-small-block-mopar-a8/6405396627.html

There are a few Ritter Al. blocks around the country going together right now.

I agree with some other opinions posted, go gen 3 and don't look back. If I thought I could get a reasonable dollar out of my small block stuff I'd sell out and start over with a gen 3.

Alright... lets say boom were going with a Gen 3 set up..... there is no restrictions on the turbo all the rules say is limited to 83mm.

So what will a Gen 3 motor need then? Where do you go for the parts?

Oh should had mentioned that it can't be fuel injection. Good old Carb only.

I've worked with guys with Gen3's twin turbo's. Stock blocks seem to hold to about 1,400 before cracking the lower end of the bores. Had some issues with the high dollar cometics not holding up over 25 psi boost. With .570 stock lift, wasn't a stretch to get the valve train trouble free. Caps didn't seem to be an issue. But I'd rather see a bigger bore and shorter stroke. Start with a 6.4 block or an aftermarket block, if allowed. Stay away from the 6.1 block. Not as strong as first thought. 5.7 block ended up being the stronger of the two. I've seen a bunch of sheetmetal intakes exploded from backfiring, so I would stay with cast. Eagle or Apache heads would get you there, I think Eagle the better of the two for strength and availability. Bunch of aftermarket heads and intakes are becoming available now. I've used MSD Hemi-6 stand alone ignition. Works well once you understand the graphs.

sheetmetal intakes exploded from backfiring

If the cast manifold withstands the shock, the pressure will hold the intake valves open.

6.2 Helllcat short block, swap the rods out for Oliver or what ever you want as long as it's not stock rods .
a good set of 5.7 Eagle heads.. .
Ritter intake manifold, Inertia motor sports http://www.inertiamotorsports.com/ they have some great cams.

earlier this year , I built a 380Ci 5.7 , Molnar crank# 345-3900JA6F it's a 3.9 stroke, Manley H Beam 6.2 in rods with a 2 in pin and 3.937 bore Diamond 53007(think that was the #
Intake was bought from BDS, but the crankshop also has them http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/store/hemi-61-custom-intake-p-859.html

Comp cams 273 he runs a671 on top, I have no idea what kind of HP it makes
but the combo is easy to reproduce