the fuel system starts off Outback with a 4-gallon cell a - 10 to the pump through a filter to a dash 8

28 quick fuel 400 pump.. and then with approximately 10 or 12 ft of aluminum Hardline half inch to the to the regulator after that 2-6 lines to the carburetor.. basically the entire system is not up to standard for what I'm doing.. it will be getting upgraded shortly

As far as the carburetor is concerned.. it was built for c25... and set up for an engine that is completely different from mine.. then top it off I'm running oxygenated race fuel.. which just seems to piss the carburetor off...

That system should work........what micron pre filter and maybe the reg is acting up or something........... Is that a BG 400..........If so, maybe time to step up cos those have created real issues for most everyone I know..........

with all that said, it still ain't a slouch.

this is the run that went with that time slip

"I have to stay faster than my cylinder head guy. Because he has has too many gears."

I think you're both cheaters, one shift or two shifts......not enough! LOL!

Can't wait to get my little ol' truck engine done.

I see 12.5 volts do u run an alternator............

Nope 3 lb lithium

A customer recently dynoed a carb I did and at 6400 it started loosing fuel pressure and going lean due to the big pump needing more volts so he added an alt and haven't heard back.......If that 12.5 is the voltage at 7100 rpm's, then the battery isn't cuttin it imo............

that would be interesting Shiloh concerning that new battery. Does the voltage stay there during the pass?

I wouldn't be happy about that voltage either. 12.5 is about 50% charge, but it does seem to be working ok. You would see 13.8/14.2 w3ith a alt. Maybe time for two of those 3# bats just to insure enough reserve voltage.


But reguardless of that, Your car flys, your getting her Done!!

The pump and the MSD race ignitions can suffer from low voltage
Maybe it is time for two 16 V batteries or a big amp alternator
I saw a slight ET(.003 to .004) and MPH loss(.17 to.2 MPH) on my old M.W. stocker by turning off the alternator feed before the runs with a charged up battery on back to back runs three times
When your chasing every bit, a thousands can make a difference

considering I have set the bypass and the regulator pressure at that voltage
It should be fine.. I have a lot of sharp bins in the fuel line. And possibly some restrictive fittings..

I will check with quick fuel in the morning to see if I'm meeting the voltage requirements.. but they're definitely will not be an alternator on this anytime soon

I was reading the leaf spring thread from last year and you’ve definitely gotten things figured out seeing your 60’s in the sub 1.2x range. Congrats on the gains. What changes ultimately got you there? Thicker front and rear spring segments? Shocks?

Thanks again for sharing your progress!

Its not just the fuel pump/pumps you need to worry about but the ignition systems as well. At 12.5 volts funny things can start to happen. Your at the edge/cliff with that new batt, maybe that 12,5 volt reading was after several runs.

we're still running the lowering blocks and the heavier rear segment.. nothing has really changed except for shock settings. And more power.. however I'm in the process of getting rid of the lowering blocks and maintaining the same height

the ignition system in this car will tell me if there's an issue regarding low voltage.. it seems to hold very well at 12.5 volts..

Mickey Thompson's all the way around..26 fronts 29.5 10.5 S .. with tubes