Gents!

This question is meant to asses all the possibilities, it is not an expression of "can or can't it be done".

So here is the subject: with a factory block ('74 360) and main studs, should I use factory main caps, or should I cut down the MP #P5249675 4-bolt main caps down to just 2-bolt setup?

In other words, based on what I understand the general opinion to be, it is not a good idea to try to put the 4-bolt main caps into a stock block. I accept that as-is, no further points to discuss.

....But...given that I already have two sets of the MP 4-bolt main cap kits, should I have the machine shop cut one of them down to just the 2-bolt configuration and run those instead of the stock caps?

Do the MP caps offer better iron over the factory stuff? Will this introduce any additional strength into the build?

Intended use is (M-body in the sig): weekend driver, not a drag racer, a typical street/light-strip car. W2 based 408 stroker, forged crank, H-beam rods, 10.5:1 CR, hydraulic roller cam, 6500 max RPM, 4k converter, 4.10 rear end ratio.

Thanks everyone,
- Dariusz

I'm running a factory capped 416 right now..
most of my blocks are factory caps except
1 which has a 4 bolt main with the 1/2" bolts
and 3/8" bolts(all 340 blocks).. the 416 is a
w-2

I just beat the piss out of a .030 over 360 block with stock caps for years. I rebuilt it 3 times and it was in need of its fourth rebuild when a bearing went and broke a rod. The block is still good but I’m throwing it on the scrap pile and starting over with a fresh block. That engine started out running 10.20’s and ended up going 9.60’s with a roller cam

Gents, thanks for the feedback...stock caps it is then!!!

New main bearing caps: line bore = $$$