Within the next few weeks I will be pulling the 360 motor out and getting ready for a stroker W2 build.

I am hoping to learn a few things by taking my time to do a proper tear-down. What I mean by this is: watch for tell-tale signs of oil starvation (bearings, piston scuffing, etc?), signs of detonation, ring wear, as well as regular engine wear.

What I am curious, given that my previous tear-downs have always been of the "get it all apart ASAP, all amateur back-yard stuff", what are the recommended things to do, is there a specific disassembly order so I can measure and/or diagnose things?

This engine has only racked-up a mere 5k miles since a completely new re-built. But, since it's a weekend only driver, some 6 seasons have now gone by, the factory iron heads are somewhat tired (previously had exhaust cross-over coolant leak that has been epoxied) and well, I wanted to really try the W2 stroker build.

Would love to hear your recommendations on the "best-practice" type approach, or what you have found to work well. By all means, if there are on-line references I should review toss 'em at me please.

Thanks!

.The crap on the port walls can show oil control/fuel tune.
.2nd ring wear across the face, these are tapered and if worn across entirely are gonzo.
.condition of the molly face on the top ring. the rings can take a beating if the bore finish was too ruff.
. piston skirt/ring grove condition
.cap walk
.cracks
.bearing condition
.oil contaminatess
.bore condition, taper and roundness

just some thoughts.
also I like to undo heads in a reverse torque pattern.

Takes a bunch of pictures, of everything, bearings, anything that looks different. When in doubt take a picture.

Depends on what is going to be replaced. If you are going to do a stroker with, I assume, a new reciprocating assembly and new heads, what comes out of it is not a whole lot of use if the block is the only thing to be reused. I would at least look at the bearings for wear and the caps for fretting caused by walking. And for cracks.

Anything that is going to be reused should be cleaned first. Sloppy, oily parts are not easy to check. Then inspect; visually for any signs of wear, damage, cracks or oil starvation, and measure for any wear. Rocker gear, lifters and cam, any wear surface, etc. Disassemble, inspect and measure the oil pump clearances. Die penetrant or magnaflux can be used to check for cracks.

Intended use - RPM, horsepower level, etc., will determine what modifications or work may be wise to do, even if there appeared to be no problems in the last combination.

@ 5k you're not likely to find many problems.

Rather than use your existing engine I'd build a core motor and sell the one you have to help fund the project. Keep driving it until you're ready to o the swap then pull out the old engine, remove whatever parts you'll reuse and button it up.

But that's me.

I'm kind of along Medlocks thinking.... you're changing the whole top end, cam and probably pistons with the head change. I don't think you be in too deep to simply build another engine. That way you can keep playing with the car, and when the others done sell the current one, or keep it for a "backup plan".

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

This motor has a bunch of quality parts in it, so I'm not inclined to sell it all off, unless I do a short-block only type of a thing as that is mostly stock stuff and pretty generic.

Since this stroker build is going into my M-body ride I will have to go TTI headers for the W2 setup and I just don't know how everything else will literally fit. Therefore, my plan is to yank the old motor out, do some basic test-fitting with the "naked" block/heads/exhaust setup.

For example, I have a Milodon #30940 oil pan (8qt, deep pan, LOW PROFILE). But I have read on-line that the bottom of the pan flare-out design may be an isse with the K-frame in the F/M/J-body cars. Now if you add the TTI tubes into the mix...well, will it work, or won't it??? Good news is that TTI says the pan and their W2 headers will work (TTI Header #340W2 1-3/4" W2 STEP HEADERS).

So I need the engine bay empty as this stuff is coming together.

Anways, OK, I will take a bunch of photos, will update this thread if questions pop up or I'm seeing something unusual.

no issues with that oil pan. i did make a small notch in the k frame (passenger side) just for easy install but it wasn't a must do. i had TTI 1-7/8'' headers that fit perfect on my 79 Aspen. i don't know if your engine bay is the same

Would another block be of any use to you for your testing? Dad might still have the old one that spun a bearing.

79410aspenrt: Thanks, that's good to know. I am thinking of doing the 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" tubes, the 1-7/8" maybe just a tad too big for the car's intended use. I think the engine bay is nearly the same in these cars, short of maybe some tiny sheetmetal changes.

MarkM: I have a spare 360 short-block already (but thanks, I appreciate the offer), that is actually the one I want to prep for the W2 build, so I'm good for now, as soon as the current 360 is out I will test-fit the spare 360-block with the pan, no TTI headers at the moment though (boy, that purchase is going to hurt...LOL)

Right now I started my conversation with the machine shop around the W2 head work to get the guides setup for 11/32 stem, etc, etc...

when rebuilding an engine, every piece in the engine is evaluated on three things. Can it go back in the engine as it is, does and can it be reconditioned, or does it have to be replaced. To answer those three questions, proper specifications and proper measurements of the components is critical in working on engines. Some of the things I see people miss a lot is ring land to ring clearance, loose or tight ring lands cause a lot of problems. crankshaft warpage, valve guide clearance, deck and head warpage, proper endplay on crank and camshaft, alignment of rockers with valve tips, valve spring pressures and installed heights, proper pushrod length. Piston to valve clearance, and piston to head clearance.

What are these quality parts?

If you are replacing the heads, crank, pistons.

What out of the original motor are you using?

Seriously...LOL?

Not sure about you but I do not have a storage room fool of small block stuff to chose and pick from on-a-whim...I'm talking intake manifolds, rocker arms, valve covers, timing chain covers, etc, etc

So yeah, if I want to build another non-W2 SB motor you bet I'm going to use a bunch of this stuff again!