Pat

what grit sanding discs are you using to get that bare metal look after welding?

Paul

Paul,
I finish up with 80 grit paper on DA, I'll try to do is a little better pictorial of the process from raw weld to finish panel in the next couple weeks.
Thanks
Pat

PS. Cool screening Name!

Where did you get that long vipe grip clamp? That could come in REALLY handy at times!

It is an awesome clamp that I purchased from a supplier at one of the Carlisle events. It's one of those tools that you don't use a lot but when you need it nothing else will work as good. Below is a link for the company that sells them.
Thanks
Pat

http://www.stronghandtools.com/stronghandtools/products/longreach.php

thanks!

I started filling all of the unused holes in the engine well and have the left inner fender and core support finished, so far over 50 holes.
Thanks
Pat

I’ve had a few people ask how I remove the paint, clean the metal and finish off the welds, so I thought I do little right up and some pictures on what has worked for me.









In the engine bay I have found a heat gun and wirewheel on a drill works great removing the paint and original primer from all the nooks and crannies. I like using a 12” quick change extension to hold the wire wheels. The advantage of the drill over a grinder is you can change the direction of the drill which allows the wirewheel to work more aggressively remove the paint and primer. With the heat gun I blister about 6”x6” of paint and while it is still hot I use the wirewheel to remove that section of paint, it goes quick and no fine dust.








Here is a before and after of the firewall using only the heat gun and wirewheel.












Here I’m welding over the wire harness plug hole. After tack welding the cover in place I grind down most of the welds before finishing the welding, this helps keep the heat down and make it easier to connect the weld as thickness of the metal is similar to the welds.

I like to use a 90 degree Die grinder with 2” 36 grit disc to take the welds down. Keep it moving and always use new disc when working small areas as worn disc will just heat the metal instead of cutting the weld down. When the welds are mostly cut down you can hammer and dolly the panel flat and then finish off the leftover weld with a 60 grit disc.





Note before hammer and dolly the panel you will need to grind down the weld on the back side!







The last thing I do is use a 6” random orbital sander with a ¾” foam pad and 100 grit paper to clean the metal.
Thanks
Pat

Hey there! First off, I just want to say thank you for the build thread. Very impressive fabrication skills. I do have a question though, I was wondering what thickness metal you use for body panel repair, and metal thickness for the sheet metal work your doing? Thanks, looking foreword to watching this build.

Justin

Justin,
All of the body panels I have matched the same 20 gauge steel that was used originally. For most of the structural components that I added to the bottom of the car I used 14 gauge to 1/8" steel and some 3/16". Thanks for following along!
Pat

this build is one of my favorites .!!! you and the srt8 roadrunner guy are over the top !!! I use the info from both of you !! your welding skills are so impressive !! THANKYOU !!!

The community of car guys sharing ideas and techniques is what makes these forums so cool!
Thank you!
Pat

I like that drill extension for the wire brush. Who makes that and where to buy?

Excellent build!

Larry,

I'm not sure who makes the extension but I bought it Home Depot
Thanks
Pat

The paint is removed and all the unused holes are welded up in the engine bay and ready for epoxy primer.
Thanks
Pat

I had a mold made of the front bumper guard mount so I could make a carbon-fiber version of it. The steel mount weighs about 6 lbs and the carbon-fiber replacement will weigh about 1 lbs. After I pull the 1st part I’ll post a few pictures and if anyone is interested I could make a few more? I think I will paint mine black to look original but they could be left clear to show the carbon-fiber if you like?
Thanks
Pat

You work with Carbon Fiber too!? What are you using for your molds? I have some vacuum bag material at home. I was planning on making some Carbon Fiber components for the Dart in the next couple of years.

Yes, working around yachts for over 35 years one can learn a few things along the way ;-) We have a large vacuum bag machine that is use to make the hardtop for our 55 Fleming. The green part in the pictures is the mold pulled from the original part.
Thanks
Pat

I'll look at it at home. I can't see pictures on my work computer. But very cool, regardless. My carbon fiber work was done in college not too long ago. I made body panels for a small off-roading car and created carbon fiber coupons for a test I did for my senior project.

I looked at these yesterday at Home Depot - the ones they had have a "quick connect" hex type chuck vs a 3-jaw chuck. I would like one with a 3-jaw.