So, I just finished restoring my 68 GTX a year or so ago and I carefully restored to pristine condition the 3 X 11 manual drum brakes, new everything...now... comparatively speaking to everything else I drive with either 2 or 4 wheel disc brakes...this thing stops like..."sheet"! I know it's not a fair comparison but jeez it feels like I'm stopping a semi with bicycle brakes. I am wondering if manual front disc would noticeably improve stopping? Since I've already made a bunch of "day 2" mods I not too worried about originality anymore. Couple of panic stops have cured me

Discs vs drums.

Where discs shine is in fade and water resistance. Today's cars tend to run seriously undersized rotors with aggressive pads, which is why rotors don't last anymore.

Dry, first time stop, drums can actually out perform discs due to their self energizing capabilities.

Since this is a "resto" you aren't still running skinny bias plies are you? Any brake system is limited by traction. If the brakes are locking up adding more brake will do nothing. If the brakes do not lock up then you have a brake problem.

All that said, I prefer discs and you have more options in regards to pad aggressiveness. I tend to run the factory based 11.75" setup for several reasons. It's cheap, it is well engineered, parts availability is great.

So, are you current brakes capable of locking up the tires?

Mickey Thompson P225/70R15 on the front, P295/55R15 on the rear, will lock up the brakes, just takes alot of pedal pressure and seems like in emergency braking situations it really gets your attention...if you know what I mean

Sounds more like a M/C issue than anything else. The manual drum M/C should be a 1" bore setup. What is your bore?

What Supercuda said, see what the bore size is (post it) & I'm assuming the pedal ratio is correct (sounds like all that was unchanged). In addition you might need more aggressive shoes & a bed in procedure (Google it) & does your brake shop arc in shoes?

actually I would think you want a smaller bore size if your complaint is amount of force needed to lock it up.
there will be more travel, but should be less effort.

Bore size is 1", good point on the shoe bedding process, the brakes were finished long before the car was driveable and I know now that I neglected to properly break them in...may be time to revisit that...

Power disc brake version is 1.125", manual drum version is 1", so yeah it's smaller. Got to eliminate all the variables to narrow it down.

Andrew is right, a smaller bore might be the solution & very few people actually do take the trouble to do a bed in, I just figured it was worth mentioning as it is helpfull. With the MC potential dealt with just me I would get some agressive specialty shoes, they wear out the drums faster but you'll be alive to enjoy it. (sounds like you are "alive" now with your near misses!)

I was thinking I was just spoiled from driving power disc equipped vehicles, maybe I'll try some new shoes and break them in properly this time before I jump to disc brakes. Or maybe I just need to slow my arsh down...

Don't do that (not in this lifetime).

You have 15 inch rims so the 11.75 factory setup should fit on there. Fairly easy to find the parts these days for the conversion. One phone call to Doctor Diff should get you knuckles and adapters and then you just need to swing by the auto parts store for loaded calipers, rotors and hoses.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks, on another note, if I converted to disc is there a big stopping difference between power and manual, would prefer not to clutter up the engine compartment with a brake booster if I can get away with it.

I went directly to 4wheel disc pro street kit from wilwood on my 69 Satellite but even just the front is going to help a lot in stopping and less worry about being adjusted,cracked drum or shoes.I did use a performance shoe on the front for a time but no where near the same as disc.

power mainly reduces the pedal input needed to generate a certain amt of brakeing output force so you're good there.

I went with the aluminum master cylinder (two bolt) conversion that Dr. Diff has, along with spindles from FMJ body . . . used calipers from 5th Ave - so they have the bleeder screw on top (as I have rear mounted calipers), and stainless steel brake lines (again from Dr. Diff.) . . . car is 70 Sport Satellite - manual drum to manual disc. Pedal feel is firm and not too hard, even with the disc's up front. Never had alignment or tire wear issue or driving issue . . . 15x7 "road wheels" - car originally had 14's, but wanted better tire selection (hence 15") - also the 15's are powder coated all way round for use with trim rings - not the FORD all chrome wheel . . . anyhow, yes there are those detractors about using the FMJ spindle - but it works in real world with no issues . . . have 10k miles on the car now ! . . . I am glad I went with the disc brake conversion . . .

Sweet! All good input, thanks gang

Manual brakes work fine with the 11.75 rotors. You'll need the right master cylinder size and you'll want to use a high quality brake pad but it will work if you pay attention and do it correctly.

Yeah, forgot how much fun this thing was to drive, I tend to lean on it from time to time

Will do, thanks again