I saw on here where someone was discussing these, where can I purchase some plus do they make new pins-bolts? I like the idea of them moving and greasing. Thanks

First place I'd look is Energy Suspension. Sometimes you can find them on Rockauto.

The greasing deal is, if you don't grease poly bushings, they'll squeak. There are poly bushings that have lubricant built in, they don't need grease. But the greasing is not a positive attribute. It just quiets the mice living beneath your car.

R.

www.p-s-t.com used to advertise graphite infused poly bushings that were self lubricating. I don't know if they still do. It's been awhile since I've looked at their site.

I'd recommend PST polygraphite, I've used the Energy Suspension pieces, not impressed IMHO

If you decide to go poly on the LCA, use the poly strut/brake relay rod bushings so that the entire LCA assembly is pulled forward properly on the bushing/pivot shaft assy, generally I do the entire front end in poly, with the exception of using rubber boots on all the joints (tierod/ball joint/etc) as the poly boots end up tearing/splitting

Thanks, if not attached to the upper a-arm and shocks would they move up and down easy? Reason being I'm looking to use on my race car to get easy front end movement. The stock type isn't free enough and locks that shaft to the rubber. I want it to move (with grease if need be). I like the idea of the more solid strut bar bushings too.

The poly LCA bushings press into place by hand, and rotate freely 360 degrees in the LCA bore with little to no friction/resistance (so yes, unsupported/retained by the upper arm/spindle, the LCA would just drop completely), you must retain the steel outer shell of the old rubber factory bushing in the LCA bore in order to use/install the poly, most kits supply a new set of factory style rubber LCA bushings to install, then remove the rubber bushing to retain the steel outer shell if your LCA's are bare/void of existing OEM bushings, I mention replacing the brake strut/relay rod bushings with poly units, as the OEM rubber ones "push" the LCA further back, the poly LCA bushing moves the LCA slightly forward because of it's profile vs the OEM design, if you use the OEM strut rod bushings, it splays the LCAs rearward at an angle after install, and or allows for some forward/aft movement of the LCA on the poly bushing, often resulting in excessive wear, or alignment issues, or both...often the reason poly LCA bushings get a bad rap, from installation error...

depending on the LCA pivot shaft used, and the type of poly bushing used, you may also be required to leave/install the inner steel sleeve from the OEM LCA rubber bushing on the pivot shaft

I used the Polygraphite bushings in my 74 Satellite. They are not squeak free. Speed bumps or any suspension movement that is near full travel will squeak but for the stability and ride I wouldn't have it any other way. Under normal driving they are quiet.


I had to use Rubber Strut bushings because they didn't make Poly for the October 74 and later B bodies at the time. Prior to October they used the same as the 73 and older style.
My geometry hasn't been a problem but I can easily see the LCA moving back and forth on the shaft if it wanted to because if you leave the inner shell on the LCA, as Dayclona already pointed out needs to be done, the shell is the same size as the LCA shaft forward of the bushing. There is nothing but pressure created by Torsion bar tension to keep the LCA from walking forward or backward. Under hard braking with large tires it may slide.

Somebody used to make replacement shafts with a thicker area forward of the shell. I would look for them and add a grease fitting to them. a machine shop should be able to do it pretty easy.

I've never had any poly bushings squeak, my vehicles or customers installs, street, track or road course, and I've been using PST poly since the 80's, as well as assorted other mfgs, if you properly lube all the bushings before and after assy, as well as tighten everything installed at RIDE HEIGHT, you can avoid any squeaking that results from dry or improperly installed components, using petroleum based lubricants will shorten/degrade the poly as well

Whether they squeak or not definitely seems dependent upon the vehicle's suspension design. My Diplomat Police cars squeaked a little at first with the graphite pst stuff, but quit after a few miles of use. I read on the late model Charger forums that they squeak pretty bad and require regular re-greasing when using poly stuff, so suspension geometry seems to play a role too.

Thanks for all replys, squeaks won't be a problem with open headers on my race car. I'm just looking for free movement for front end lift. I made some bronze bushings pieces but I felt the strut rod up and down movement would bind and put to much stress on them. I also tapped threads in the end of the pin then used a large fender washer and cap screw to keep from sliding out. This will work on the poly bushing to hold it in place to. What lubricant can be used to not deteriorate the poly?

Purchase the correct lubricant from the Poly bushing mfg of your purchase choice, as every mfg has different grades/types of lubricant to accommodate the various grades of polyurethane they offer

I don't think any lubricants will deteriorate polyurethane, but I would use White Lithium Grease.