Is this the company?

http://kgengines.wixsite.com/kgengines

Exactly.

If there is 10hrs of CNC time on these heads, along with the other labor and all the parts........for $1500..... That's a tremendous bargain.

Was that with the OE type bias ply tires?

Yes, that's them.

Dwayne, the 12.48 was with Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro's; they were 28x10.50. They are a full treaded radial but, the side walls do wrinkle like a slick and the compound is pretty soft.

The tires were mounted on Weld Prostars however; I did put magnum's back on the car this year. The fronts are fully FAST legal (the wheels and the tires) but, the rears are 15X8's and I bought a set of American Racer tires to try; they're L60's which are 27.7x9.5 (a little smaller but, still not legal to run in FAST).

I've been switching things almost 1 at a time (with as much restraint as I can muster) as I'm interested to see the affects of the changes.

With the head swap, I will also be swapping intakes to a DP4B. Again, still not legal for FAST but, closer to a stock intake. As I know you are aware, the DP4B is only about 3/4's of an inch taller than the stock intake and looks very similar. Obviously the ports are considerably better and it's aluminum.

I took a stock intake to a local machine shop earlier this year and had them open up the upper plenum with a vertical mill but, that's as far as I've gotten with it. Most likely, you'll be getting a call within the next year or two to finish it up.

I think we have all seen some pics of a CNC machine eating aluminum. With cast iron, that machine must be moving slowly to remove the chance of chatter or breakage. That's a real accomplishment to get that quality plus the R&D that goes into a successful program.

Cheap? He's doing the porting for free! Unbelievable, literally.

I bet a cast iron head is 4-5 hours per head. J.Rob

I worked on the car this weekend and ended up getting everything painted and got the passenger side head back on; that's about as far as I got.

I still need to remove the driver side head, clean the deck surface, place the new head on and button everything back up.

Dwayne, I took a pic; I'll have to add it later. The valley pan slightly hung over on one side of the center divider of the ports and the bottom of the pan hangs over into the ports slightly. I'm confident that there is enough wiggle room to center up the pan from side to side on the ports and I hope that when the intake is bolded down that the pan will pull down slightly and everything will be perfectly aligned.

I've had a bum shoulder for about a year; it made things real interesting trying to turn wrenches. Trying to place the head back on the car was really fun; it took me 4-5 tries to hit the dowels. I'd get it close to being into place and would mess around for 20 or so seconds but, would have to lift the head back up and out of the engine compartment and put it down; my shoulder just couldn't take it/wouldn't do what I wanted it to do.

Maybe you guys can help me out. My guess is I'm adding 40-50 cfm over what I have now. How many jet sizes do you think I should add as a baseline?

none to start with.

Sometimes less jet as it's more efficient

Carbs self adjust. When more air flows thru carb the extra air pulls more fuel.

next time you have to put the head on get a coupe 6 in or so lengths of all thread or a couple o studs,the dowels will line right up.

I have 2 sets from KG. A standard CNC port set, and a Max Wedge CNC 906 version w/ 2.25" intake valves. The Max wedge set uses a custom valley plate that he provides to make them work. They both are excellent quality for the money. Dave will set them up for you with the valve spring of your choice so they are ready to bolt on out of the box.

Dave just finished my old used Indy SR's. They had several issues. I wasn't even sure if they could be saved but Dave got everything corrected. They flow 343 now. Really good people; of course I would recommend KG Engines.
I have a good friend I race with and he was looking for someone to work on his heads. He said he eventually called Ray Barton and they suggested he call Dave at KG Engines.

How does the program account for core shift which is in every one of these heads.

I got it all back together and fired it up tonight. I had some things fight me so; it took a little longer than I would have liked. With the new intake, I had some clearance issues with a few things that I had to figure out tonight and then I dealt with human error for about an hour (I crossed the ground and hot wire on the alternator).

I got it up to temp and set the timing in the ball park; I need to back it off a degree or two. My helper wanted to go in and take a shower and go to bed; man, fiancé's.

It's obvious that I need to mess with the carb; I had a stumble that has not been there before. I have not put new plugs in it for a few years and a couple spark plug boots/connections seemed a little questionable so; I think I'm going to try and get some Firecore wires overnighted from Mancini tomorrow if possible. I'll do all of this before touching the carb.

I jacked it up and pulled the oil drain plug and called it a night. I'll finish the oil change tomorrow. So; hopefully I can get the required parts in time, set the idle screws, check the float levels and make any other adjustments to the carb before trying to make it to the track on Saturday.

Oh, I checked for leaks too and everything was dry as a bone; one less thing to have to address or worry about.

It it was a good carb before, consider looking for a vacuum leak.

Will do. I should have my new plug wires, plugs and coil tomorrow. I plan on switching all of that out first and then it's onto setting the idle adjustment screws with a vacuum gauge so; I should notice any oddities with the vacuum at that time.

Some updates.

I got new Firecore 50 wires, new coil and new plugs installed.

I got a vacuum gauge on the car and set the idle mixture screws; I had the same vacuum reading as before; around 15hg. I did inspect all my vacuum lines and used a butane torch and moved it all around to check for leaks just to be safe; I found no issues. I also checked the float levels which were fine.

I took the car out for the first time a few nights ago and was not too impressed; it felt slightly faster but, I could tell it wanted more fuel especially at higher rpm. I had no detonation or temperature spikes but, the car just ran out of steam up top and just felt a little flat through the whole RPM range. I made two blasts and putted back home and pulled some plugs and confirmed that I’m way lean. Again, I have a bad off idle stumble too. I dealt with this issue when I first put the motor together; the thing likes a lot of pump shot which I gave it and it cleared the problem up (I think IAB’s and IFR’s need some tuning too but, I’m just trying to get this thing straightened out enough to make it to the track this weekend). Lastly, due to the shorter intake, I also noticed that my throttle pressure rod required adjustment.

I had 83/87 jetting to start; I went up to 86/91, added bigger pump nozzles and a 50cc accelerator pump to the rear bowl; the nozzle was too big for the 30cc pump to begin with but, I got rid of the bog without it in the past so; I never messed with it.

I took the car out again last night and the changes really woke it up. The bog is almost completely gone but, it still needs some more pump shot; I think I can get the bog out with some pump cam tuning now. I got the throttle pressure rod adjusted to my liking. The thing is still too lean and has too much timing based on where the line is on the ground strap of the plug.

So; before Sunday, I want to back the timing back 2 degrees to 36, check the idle mixture again and maybe up the jets a few sizes front and back and see how it runs and what the plugs look like. From there, if I still have the bog, I’ll add some more aggressive pump cams and jet it up more if it looks like I need it.

Hopefully Sunday night, I can post up some numbers from the track if everything goes good. They’re calling for some rain this weekend but, I think it’s supposed to quit early Saturday afternoon. I hope the track doesn’t decide to not open for some reason this weekend.

What are you hoping it runs this time out, and what is the goal for after it has the stock intake and bias ply tires on it?

Interesting about your carb needing so much jet.
Seems like a lot of these newer generation carbs need way bigger jets than they "should".

The FAST 511 I built was actually a tad rich with an ootb edelbrock 800AVS, took a little jet out...... Picked up a few hp.