Re: Electrolysis
[Re: 340SIX]
#238347
02/28/09 02:35 AM
02/28/09 02:35 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
I was told to use catapiler antifreeze since it has something in it just for that. That lots of machines and trucks have that problem so thats what I used.I went ahead and got the premixed one it is red in color.
I'm certainly no expert, but hot water heaters have a "sacrificial anode" for this purpose, and trucks have chemically treated water filters and other chem additives for the cooling systems. I don't pay attention to trucks anymore, so I don't know if many use aluminum radiators or not
|
|
|
Re: Electrolysis
[Re: 340SIX]
#238348
02/28/09 02:51 AM
02/28/09 02:51 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Quote:
I was told to use catapiler antifreeze since it has something in it just for that. That lots of machines and trucks have that problem so thats what I used.I went ahead and got the premixed one it is red in color.
I just use a anode like posted above since we cant
use anti-freeze in racing. I havent had any problems
at all and the radiator looks like new
|
|
|
Re: Electrolysis
[Re: David_in_St_Croi]
#238352
02/28/09 09:37 PM
02/28/09 09:37 PM
|
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 446
oregon
savoyracer
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 446
oregon
|
Quote:
If it is electrolysis the problem is caused by stray current. If it is galvanic corrosion, that is caused by dissimilar metals. Both situations will eat the aluminum, which is low on the galvanic scale. Both can be treated with an anode. I suspect you have galvanic corrosion, not electrolysis. If you disconnect the battery do you still get the radiator building pressure? What time frame are we talking about to build this pressure? If you still get the phenomena with the battery disconnected you have galvanic corrosion. If you only get the effect with the battery connected you have a current leak somewhere (which I suspect is not the case).
Frequently people use the term electrolysis when they really mean galvanic corrosion. Cavitation and ventilation are frequently misused also, people call ventilation cavitation and they are very different. Boy, am I sounding like a pedantic engineer (which I am). 
........... 
|
|
|
Re: Electrolysis
[Re: Plumcrazyracing]
#238353
03/01/09 07:31 AM
03/01/09 07:31 AM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,414
St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
David_in_St_Croi
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,414
St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
|
Hi Plum, I doubt there has been any serious damage to your heads. A zinc anode on a boat usually lasts a pretty long time and that is submerged in salt water. As it sounds like the problem is caused by the dissimilar metals, which you can not change, I would go with the zinc anode or the coolants mentioned. You could also drain the system and refill using distilled water plus whatever antifreeze, water-wetter additives you desire. Distilled water is pretty much just H2O with no other ions so has less current carrying capacity. I know, it sounds as if I am talking about electrolysis again, but while not caused by an electrical current, galvanic corrosion is still an electrical phenomena. The worse of a conductor the fluid is, the less corrosion. For fun sometime stick an aluminum nail and a copper nail into a lemon. Lemon juice is acidic, copper and aluminum are far apart on the galvanic scale. Put a voltmeter with one lead on each nail, completing the circuit. With the meter set on the lowest voltage DC setting you will be able to detect a current. Several of these in series will light up a flashlight bulb. Okay, enough science. Now, go buy an anode and burn rubber.  
|
|
|
|
|
