Running factory electronic ignition. Jumped white wire to battery to get it going. What do you suggest as a source for the white wire?

Thanks,

nd65
nd.neal@gmail.com

Depends if you have a ballast resistor or not. With EFI you should be using the ECU to run the ignition so in that case you don't need the ballast so you should be able to use J2 and J3 on the ignition switch.

Look at the wiring diagram for your vehicle and then double check with a volt meter.

I think the op issue is he is running the fitech for the fuel system only and factory ignition. So under the hood he would need to keep the ballast wires, today I will be checking under the dash to find another key source that doesn't lose voltage while cracking

Correct 540. Running factory electronic ignition, fuel only on the Fitech.

Andy, the car is a 65 Coronet 500, maroon w/white top. Very similar to yours.

Maybe if he stayed off the crack he could figure it out

Thought about running a seperate illuminated fused toggle switch to the battery for power. It would require me to flip this switch on and off at startup/shutdown.

Thoughts?

All you need to do is use the run line and the start line, tap them both through a diode and use that for your connection.

It is not rocket science.

Use the diode to prevent back feed from one source to the other.

Yep, diode is the easiest way.

Thanks Supercuda,

John, thank you very much for the drawing.

Did a little research on diodes and kind of getting it now. What diode would you recommend I get?

Thanks,
nd65

I get it now!!

Ignition 2 is the start mode and has 12 volts while cranking (brown wire).

Ignition 1 is run mode (blue wire). It has 12 volts when you let off the key when the engine starts.

The diode is basically a check valve. It only allows current to flow 1 way.

The diode gets wired from ignition 2 to ignition 1. This will allow 12 volts from the ignition 2 start (or crank) mode to flow to ignition 1 run mode. When the engine starts and you let off the key the diode (or check valve) prevents the 12 volts from ignition 1 from flowing back to ignition 2. Thus, ignition 1 always has 12 volts and the Fitech is happy.

I used this

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Pack-Of-10-Schott...a-/381734805254

Thanks CNXT

1N4000 series are great for this. (1N4001, 4002, 4003, etc) and you can buy a bunch for a dollar.
Craig

Thanks Craig.

I could not find anything in the archives on this. Perhaps this could be moved there.

nd65

UPDATE.

Thanks for your help guys. The diode wired to the ballast resistor wires works. I used an IN9004 from Radio Shack. There are still a few of them open in Indiana.

excellent

Correct... the Diode keeps working the ballast to the coil in run correctly with the decayed power.

there was a nice discussion about this couple of months ago. A relay can be used too allong with diode, but makes a bigger and "complex" installation. Not required if the source needed is mainly just for triggering, and not for sourcing more than the stock system

I'm wondering about the posibility of a modified ballast to hide this diode jumping job, cuting the ceramic on back with a dremmel enlarging the groove and solding to the existant ballast ends on groove... would be an interesting job!

Of course, prongs will need to be labeled to plug Ign 1 and 2 on the same position allways

I thought about trying to hide the diode, ibut the diode was pretty big and didn't see a clean way to make a channel on the solid ballast.

if using a single ballast, would a duel [four pin] ballast work using the unneeded section [after removing that section's guts] as a place to hide the diode ?

That is a great idea, I found this pic that looks workable.
Problem is all the new ballast seemed to be completely sealed, not sure how well you could cut that ceramic material, seems brittle?

a deft hand with a dremel type tool should work, with having the ballast clamped in a stationary position, to remove the unneeded ballast. but remember, the duel ballast has two different values, but i can't remember off hand what the resistances are. that is why there are locating pins on the plugs, to index the ballast slot. pick the side with the resistance you need, then gut the other side. hope this makes sense.

primary resistor uses to be between .5 and 1.5 ohms

secondary 5 ohms.

several ppl has got success modifying the ballast ( per an idea I posted once ) to the ballast bypass replacing the resistor with a jumper wire on ceramic groove to those ign system doesn't need the resistor anymore ( such as FBO and some others ). In that way you don't need to hack the wiring and still keep the stock look on firewall, and get it back to stock just replacing the ballast again remaining the wiring untouched. The white stuff is simply epoxy, easy to remove.

now, using a dual ballast in place of the single ballast just to hide the diode, Dunno if will look right a bigger ceramic piece and unused prongs there. Simply wouldn't look right. If you already got a single ballast, is better just install parallel the diode between ballast prongs ( solding or using dual male/ single female spade kind splicers ) and protecting with shrinking tube. I think would be less noticeable than the weird uncomplete bigger ceramic stuff. My idea came on if already using a dual ballast with double plugs on engine harness

thanks for reviving my old memory on the resistance values natcho ! my idea of using the dual ballast was to hide the diode in the unused cavity, then use spades [factory tabs through the ballast] and re-wire the dual plug to connect the single ballast to the diode. it wouldn't look totally factory correct, but similarly correct, as you would be using factory terminals and a factory ballast. i guess it would come down to how the final appearance looked, and it's position on the car. hope i'm somewhat clear in projecting my thoughts on this idea.

yes... could be nice too... One groove with the resistor, the other groove with the diode. Just would need just to jump out on dual ballast plugs on both sides. Blue wire is already done actually from factory on existant dual ballast setups, just would need to jump the brown side between both prongs straight at the same plug like blue wires are already done.



This is of of course you are using a 4 pins ECU, not 5 pins. You would be sacrifing the secondary resistor what feeds the unexistant pin on 4 pins ECUs

and as mentioned ALLWAYS conecting same plugs on same side of ballast, never reversed like being just a resistor doesn't matter.