i have a later 727 i believe out of an 89 power ram?
since i got it its had a slow 2-3 shift when moved manually
it has been completely rebuilt, clutches bands springs etc,
received a tf-2 kit and some valve body modifications.
b and m shifter, b and m hole-shot 2100 stall torque convert, b and m extended pan.



all clutches, belts. valves, springs, are all new and hopefully adjusted properly.
park, reverse, neutral, drive, 2 and 1 all work beautifully.

1-2 is rock solid and grabs perfectly.
2-3 at part or mid throttle is fine. WOT revs up as if in neutral then grabs 3rd. (kickdown/overlap/pressure? issue?)
putting it in drive/3rd goes through up and down gears perfectly fine even WOT.

i do not have a kick down or throttle leavers.
they are just at a stationary spot. possibly one of my issues.

i do believe the torque converter is full and level is ok as dips in neutral show fine.




it is however intercooled, and i routed it to keep fluid in it at all times but didnt bleed it (thinking pressure will push it through) and may have air in system/torque converter.

is band out of adjust? do i have to adjust the pressure? need guru help!

pictures of what my the trans and leavers look like.





can i externally adjust the overlap from the external kickdown adjuster stud to 72 ft-lbs then back it off 2.5 turns?, or perhaps this requires adjustment of the throttle shaft?
or whatever lingo is proper for either of these.

and yes. it was rebuilt in 2005. put into vehicle in 2008 and first drove a month ago.



me breaking in the trans and trying to burp it.

it has about 100 miles on the rebuild.
had 700 miles on it when it was pulled.

total life 800 miles.
i dont remember all the kit names for the rebuild since it was well over 12 years ago.
i do remember everything inside was brand new but i redid everything and added better and additional clutches.

(for obvious torque reasons)

hi
a tf-2 kit requires throttle preasure to be full back at wot !

So the nob above the shifter leaver should be turned all the way counter clockwise?
Keep in mind I don't have a throttle cable to the trans.

You either need to block that all the way back or put KD linkage/cable on it before you knock 2nd gear out altogether.

You need either the throttle pressure lever hooked up correctly or a manual valve body before anything else. Transmissions don't need to bled. Any air in the servos or clutch pistons will work out after a few applications.

However running it without the proper throttle pressure will burn the front clutches.

will it cause any issue running it at full pressure?
i hardly ever put it in drive/3 and put around i manual shift down and up.
next time i have the pan open i will upgrade it to a full manual valve body. anyone have suggestions?

also i remember the rebuild kit company i used was TCI.
so i guess im partial to picking their valve body kit unless someone suggests otherwise.

For what your doing you would be better off just
pulling the pan right now and changing the valve
body otherwise your gona have issues with the
trans... the one thing that might cause you
a problem is the front vent.. in a M/V trans you
need to move the vent to the tail shaft and plug
the stock vent.. or it tends to spit fluid out..
on whos to use... there are plenty to pick from..
I have a turbo action in my junk.... OR just set
up a throttle arm with the proper ratio on the arm
to give you the pressure you need.. its simple

Do you want manual only or do you want auto shifts? Either way can be done, but as suggested above, you do need to change the way you have the throttle lever set up now.

On my last blower car which was primarily a street car, I started with a cable kick down which worked okay. But changed to a forward manual valve body. I usually like to shift the car manually anyway and the tranny just reacts quicker and more consistently with the manual valve body.

I even had A&A build a manual valve body for the 518 in my current Cuda street car. They softened the 1-2 shift and the reverse engagement so that they weren't banging all the time. It makes for a good combination on a street car.

Plenty of choices for you once you make the decision on which way you want to go.

i am perfectly fine running manual shifts only. looks like revised throttle bodies arent too expensive about $300. i may look into it for the new season. for now i just want it driveable. it hasnt moved in a decade and half. like i said everything works just annoying to have to back off throttle to have 2-3 shift nicer.

ill try running it at max pressure always. unless that will hurt things? the extended pan and cooler shouldn't let the system overheat. and technically shouldn't be any issue running full pressure?

i might get lucky and have money for a trans-brake version.

If you don't have proportionate shift strength, the car will be a PITA on wet pavement. I have full throttle pressure all the time (not 727) even though I have auto upshift, and the car will loop if the steering wheel is turned when it shifts.

so if i am correct it needs to go counter clockwise, should i make a leaver on it and tie it off. or will it stay where i put it?

Tieing the lever back will solve your full throttle upshift flare but as soon as you slow down below governor speed the trans will downshift to second automatically.

A manual valve body is your only option if you don't want the hassle of a kickdown cable setup. Doing neither is a guaranteed transmission rebuild in the fairly immediate future.

Kevin.

You can't just tie the throttle lever back because it won't shift until the RPM hits the governor shift point and then (as mentioned) will down shift way soon, too, In other words, you won't have much control over when the thing shifts.

Only 3 choices; a properly adjusted kick down, a manual valve body, or risk hurting the tranny.

Just put a KD on it.. you can get a Locar cable
and the rest of the stuff from them.. then it
might take a little time to get it right for
you.. then you can shift it or let it do its
job for you.. took me a little time to get mine
adjusted where I like it... that way you wont
tear up your trans.. all those soft shifts are
cooking the trans

ok ill pick up a lokar cable set.
where the hell can i find an actual lever?

I used this kit on my Dart project.

http://bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/589

Be prepared for some fabrication to make it all work right. If you don't find any levers close by, I think I have 1 or 2 lying around. There are different length levers which will affect how the ratios interact between the carb and tranny. I drilled extra holes in the lever till I got the correct action between the carb and tranny.

im trying to procure a lokar cable kit.
i do need a lower lever arm
one really cool guy offered to send me one.
if it cant be done ill take you up on your offer.

sadly im in the igloo country of canadah.
i am in no rush as the engine is down due to lifter retainer wire failure.

discussion about that is located here
board.moparts.org re-lifter-ok-to-re-assemble-or-should-i-replace

The upper arm is the throttle pressure. Try to get the shortest one you can (like the upper row in the pic below) for use with the Lokar.

Any chance of part numbers or manufacturer?