Page 1 of 11 1 2 3 10 11 >
Topic Options
#2342386 - 07/24/17 11:03 AM Starting to work on the Duster
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
This car has been sitting in my shop for the past 5 years gathering dust. I had it for sale for $4900 but didn't get any offers so I figured maybe I'll just put it together. I have the Car Craft 470 engine sitting on the stand (700 hp, pump gas) and I have a 727 trans. The car has a new S60 rearend with Ford disc brakes, split mono leafs and Cal tracs.


Attachments
DSC_0965 (Large).JPG

DSC_0936 (Large).JPG

DSC_0958 (Large).JPG



Top
#2342389 - 07/24/17 11:12 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
fullmetaljacket Offline
master

Registered: 02/04/03
Posts: 6217
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
After dusting off that Duster and getting it breathing again, the offers may start to pour in. But then again, you just might be having too much fun with 700 horses in a A Team body like that to be worth trying to get rid of it.

Top
#2342392 - 07/24/17 11:14 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
pittsburghracer Offline
Slowride

Registered: 02/02/05
Posts: 12551
Loc: PA.
I give you credit Andy as you still have the get up and go. I wish I could find some. Can't wait to follow your progress on this one.
_________________________
1970 Duster
Edelbrock headed 408
6.143@110.89 mph
9.73@135.05 mph shifting at 6700 RPM
422 Indy headed small block
6.001@113.27mph
9.44@138.23

Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr





Top
#2342398 - 07/24/17 11:28 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 16678
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
I would have love to buy it but I'm on the wrong side of the planet these days smile
_________________________

"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"

Top
#2342403 - 07/24/17 11:42 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ProSport Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 17530
Loc: Akron, Ohio
Very cool project
_________________________
Sassy Grass street Duster, best of 10.69 at 124 driven to the track with 3.23 gears, naturally aspirated on 93 octane.

Top
#2342404 - 07/24/17 11:45 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
That is a very nice looking ride. Nice to see that 470 going to use. Please keep us in the loop. I enjoy all your posts.

Top
#2342406 - 07/24/17 11:49 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The car is completely gutted so it would be a big chore to put it back together. That guy I got the car from had just started to build a race car when he ran into some personal problems and had to sell everything. Since I didn't take it apart I'm kind of lost in some areas.

But I figure it doesn't all have to go back together anyway. I'm just going to put it together enough to get it running. It will be very unfinished when I'm finished with it!

Top
#2342408 - 07/24/17 11:52 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Al_Alguire]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Al_Alguire
I would have love to buy it but I'm on the wrong side of the planet these days smile


I guarantee it will be back up for sale in the future. I don't really have the room (or time) for multiple car projects so once I get this thing running and driving I'll need to sell it.

Top
#2342412 - 07/24/17 11:58 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Thumperdart Offline


Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 18549
Loc: State of confusion
Nice lookin A-Body Andy............. thumbs
_________________________
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`.....Check me out on FB for stories, videos and lots of carb pics..........760-900-3895........

Top
#2342422 - 07/24/17 12:18 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4104
Loc: fredericksburg,va
What kind of inspiration did you get to start again? I'm 3/4s done on my 70 Duster and can't seem to get motivated either, maybe it's the heat and humidity. I just sat and looked at it for about a hour yesterday then went back in the house. Do we all go thru this as we get older? My hats off to you.

Top
#2342429 - 07/24/17 12:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudaman1969]
fullmetaljacket Offline
master

Registered: 02/04/03
Posts: 6217
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Sitting and looking is actually building in your mind. By that I mean, you are rehearsing the procedures and time line to start the project.
I call it a STUDY. A study is usually created in mind or on paper/canvas as a template for the actual painting that is to come.
Yes, being older does not have the urgency to things that a rambunctious youth is compelled to do. If anything, older individuals should be the ones in a hurry to finish off projects with limited time left. LOL.

Top
#2342437 - 07/24/17 12:43 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudaman1969]
JERICOGTX Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 7916
Loc: MN
Originally Posted By cudaman1969
What kind of inspiration did you get to start again? I'm 3/4s done on my 70 Duster and can't seem to get motivated either, maybe it's the heat and humidity. I just sat and looked at it for about a hour yesterday then went back in the house. Do we all go thru this as we get older? My hats off to you.


I had been getting burned out with my project, but then a friend said he wants to see it ready this time next year, so lately I've been working my tail off to get stuff done. A deadline helps the motivation.
_________________________
69 GTX 68 Road Runner

Top
#2342446 - 07/24/17 12:55 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Nice ride Andy. Like the color on that car.

Top
#2342449 - 07/24/17 01:02 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
bubby440 Offline
super stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 972
Loc: North Central, Indiana
NICE up
_________________________
72 Plymouth Roadrunner

Top
#2342457 - 07/24/17 01:13 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ZIPPY Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 14865
Loc: S.E. Michigan
Cool beans. I forgot you had that!
_________________________
11.0 @ 123 so far

Top
#2342466 - 07/24/17 01:28 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudaman1969]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By cudaman1969
What kind of inspiration did you get to start again? I'm 3/4s done on my 70 Duster and can't seem to get motivated either, maybe it's the heat and humidity. I just sat and looked at it for about a hour yesterday then went back in the house. Do we all go thru this as we get older? My hats off to you.


It is a long story but the short version is that I need to get some projects finished or sold so I can downsize in the near future. The city is going to annex our property and I'll lose my shop. So if I'm going to get stuff done I need to get rolling on it now. I hauled a couple of pickup loads of stuff to the swap meet at Woodburn yesterday and sold most of it so that frees up some space and some money. I'll recycle that money into the Duster to finish it up so I can sell it before I lose the shop.

I was just going to sell the Duster but it is gutted and incomplete so most folks are scared off by a project that big. I'm pretty sure that if I hit it full time I can have it running within a few weeks and then it will be easier to deal with.

Top
#2342497 - 07/24/17 02:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudadoug Offline
master

Registered: 08/22/03
Posts: 3029
Loc: Between a rock & a hard place
I was really, really, REALLY tempted but don't have the room without infringing on some friends shop space. When you took the ad down, I thought "Good, the temptation is gone". Gutted or no, seems like a good deal for $4900!

How come the windshield bars are cut? Just curious...

Top
#2342539 - 07/24/17 03:01 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
I prefer drag type street cars anyway. I was also tempted.

Top
#2342541 - 07/24/17 03:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
dustergirl340 Offline
Chicken Little

Registered: 09/20/04
Posts: 22833
Loc: Chicken coop
I like it, looks all business.

Top
#2342554 - 07/24/17 03:27 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudadoug]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By cudadoug
I was really, really, REALLY tempted but don't have the room without infringing on some friends shop space. When you took the ad down, I thought "Good, the temptation is gone". Gutted or no, seems like a good deal for $4900!

How come the windshield bars are cut? Just curious...


The guy that did the cage screwed up the front bars and made the car really difficult to work on. They were too far back and got in the way of everything. It was kind of the last straw for the guy who sold the car to me. He had saved up his money to build a race car but the guy who did the cage ruined the car. So his money was gone and his car was worse off than before. He just gave up and sold out.

I'll have to fix the bar somehow. I haven't figured it all out yet but I think I can cut off the front bars and just run the rear 6 point cage and be legal at 10 seconds. I need to research it a bit more to know for sure. Worst case is the entire cage needs to meet the whiz wheel and I start over with a new 6 point setup. I do not intend to make it 9 second legal.

Top
#2342561 - 07/24/17 03:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Just to get a starting point I put the car up on the scales. Obviously the car isn't complete so I added weight to estimate where I'd end up. I put a battery in the trunk as well as the fuel pumps and then added 35 lbs of ballast for the fuel. I put weight in the driver seat for a driver and I put the starter, water pump and stuff like that in a box on the front fender. The radiator is in place but it is dry. The car is missing a driveshaft and the torque convertor so I'm light there.

Anyway it comes out to 2800 lbs as is so I'm thinking I should be able to go down the track at less than 3000 lbs. I need to add wiring and plumbing and a front windshield so I know I'm light, but I don't think I'm more than 200 lbs light.

Interesting thing was the weight distribution. Looks almost perfectly square front to back and side to side. I'll keep an eye on the corner weights as I build the car. Love to see it go down the track with a 50/50 weight distribution. That should help it hook......


Attachments
DSC_0967 (Large).JPG

DSC_0968 (Large).JPG

DSC_0969 (Large).JPG



Top
#2342593 - 07/24/17 04:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
roadhazard Offline
master

Registered: 04/29/06
Posts: 3674
Loc: Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
An honest 700 HP @ 3,000#
You may as well put the 10 point in and get it over with....

Top
#2342599 - 07/24/17 04:38 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rb446 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/17/15
Posts: 212
Loc: UK
Yep your gonna have to slow that down by around .5 sec to get into the 10's smile


Edited by rb446 (07/24/17 04:39 PM)
_________________________
1969 'Cuda 446ci, best 9.96@133.9 in 1990
1971 340 'Cuda, best 11.01@122.8 in 1987

Top
#2342603 - 07/24/17 04:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ccdave Offline
The Ultimate

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1734
Loc: Mopar Country, Mi
Looks like a fun project!!

Top
#2342618 - 07/24/17 05:14 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ZIPPY Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 14865
Loc: S.E. Michigan


After reading comments about downsizing and losing the shop over the last couple months, it's good to know what you were talking about. Really sounds like a sticky situation and I hope it comes out in your favor!

Top
#2342663 - 07/24/17 06:32 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4104
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By cudadoug
I was really, really, REALLY tempted but don't have the room without infringing on some friends shop space. When you took the ad down, I thought "Good, the temptation is gone". Gutted or no, seems like a good deal for $4900!

How come the windshield bars are cut? Just curious...


The guy that did the cage screwed up the front bars and made the car really difficult to work on. They were too far back and got in the way of everything. It was kind of the last straw for the guy who sold the car to me. He had saved up his money to build a race car but the guy who did the cage ruined the car. So his money was gone and his car was worse off than before. He just gave up and sold out.

I'll have to fix the bar somehow. I haven't figured it all out yet but I think I can cut off the front bars and just run the rear 6 point cage and be legal at 10 seconds. I need to research it a bit more to know for sure. Worst case is the entire cage needs to meet the whiz wheel and I start over with a new 6 point setup. I do not intend to make it 9 second legal.

Just like mine, 10.80s no quicker. Cut out the halo and front down bars. Do you have X side bars? I tied the front frame bar into those. If tens are doable then the down bars can always be put in rather easily. Can you really tell the difference between a 10.20 and a 9.70? Keep it slow and fun to get in and out of, no net, no cert.

Top
#2342667 - 07/24/17 06:35 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: roadhazard]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By roadhazard
An honest 700 HP @ 3,000#
You may as well put the 10 point in and get it over with....


Yeah but I'm sure the 727 and Dana 60 are going to suck up a bunch of power and the 700 hp was with cold air for the carb and dyno headers dumping into a very low restriction muffler system.

I also plan on driving the car to the track so that means street legal rear tires and the front suspension has to be up in the air a bit more than a pure drag car.

But yeah, if it ends up around 3000 lbs wet with driver even 600 hp will push it right to the 10.00 line. The car has 4.56 gears with 345/55-15 tires so it will go thru the lights at around 135 mph at 7000 rpm. Should be a fun ride if it all works out. We dyno tested the engine to 7000 rpm so it will pull it. The peak power was around 6800 rpm so it should pull to the stripe. Guess some of it depends on how good the converter is. I don't know much about torque converter so I'll have to study up on them.

Top
#2342689 - 07/24/17 06:57 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8097
Loc: Rogue River, OR
Please tell me the overhead crane is staying!

Time to move farther out of town I guess.

The duster looks nice, I like white.

Sorry to hear you are losing space your shop always impressed me in various pictures over the years.

I'm thinking the duster needs a stick!

Top
#2342704 - 07/24/17 07:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
It is a manual shift car with the manual shift pedals. I suppose I could pull the Doug Nash out of my Coronet and put it in the Duster!

The Doug Nash is kind of a crude tranny for a street car anyway. But I think that is way more work that I'm interested in. I'll just swap out the 4 speed pedal box for an auto pedal box and be done with it. Besides, if I put the Doug Nash in the Duster I'm sure I'd be busting parts right and left.

A Lenco would be cool but not really in scope.

Top
#2342891 - 07/25/17 12:26 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8097
Loc: Rogue River, OR
I have a brand new ST1200 4-speed here for my black Charger...bucket list material for sure.

Something about an appliance white, big tire, 4-speed street-strip Duster speaks to me.

Why do you say the Nash is crude for a street trans? Straight cut gears?

Top
#2342909 - 07/25/17 02:38 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Jeremiah]
RoadRunnerLuva Offline
master

Registered: 01/31/03
Posts: 2579
Loc: Inside the 989...
Very cool Duster Andy...just sold mine last month, but I am in the works
right now to possibly get another one (72) this time!

Top
#2342912 - 07/25/17 03:12 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Youll get the fever for a lenco after watching steve clukey's duster on youtube. Its a ladder bar car with mostly stock suspension except the chassis engineering shocks. Runs a n/a sb thats close to 800hp now. Car has been in the 8's. Check it out.

Top
#2342915 - 07/25/17 03:56 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
slantzilla Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 17982
Loc: Park Forest, IL
You just can't go wrong with a Duster.
_________________________
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."

Top
#2342925 - 07/25/17 05:11 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
MoparBilly Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 4246
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm just going to put it together enough to get it running. It will be very unfinished when I'm finished with it!


Sounds like every project car I've ever owned!!
_________________________
"Livin' in a powder keg and givin' off sparks" 4 Street cars, 5 Race engines

Top
#2342938 - 07/25/17 07:26 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
DusterKid Offline
super stock

Registered: 01/02/05
Posts: 774
Loc: Keymar, MD
One thing to remember about a roll bar vs roll cage is tubing diameter. With a 6 pt bar the bars (atleast the main hoop) is required to be larger in diameter than if you have a entire cage. I forget the actual tubing size, but if the cage was a kit for a 10 pt cage than cutting out the bars may not make the 6 pt portion legal.

Top
#2342950 - 07/25/17 08:21 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: DusterKid]
Scott58 Offline
member

Registered: 11/27/07
Posts: 159
Loc: Indiana
I was thinking that too, 1 3/4 min OD for roll bar tubing, 1 5/8 for cages, so if the cage is 1 5/8, it will not be legal as a 6 point.

Top
#2342982 - 07/25/17 09:51 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
LAD 524 Offline
mopar

Registered: 09/22/05
Posts: 445
Loc: Oz
Real nice lookin Duster Andy, very cool.

Keep us updated with your progress (y)

Top
#2342995 - 07/25/17 10:08 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: fullmetaljacket]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By fullmetaljacket
If anything, older individuals should be the ones in a hurry to finish off projects with limited time left. LOL.

my best friend always says : "our hourglass is quickly running out of sand....." how true, how true. then, he goes on to distract me from my projects to his ! but that's what friends are for, right ? biggrin
beer

Top
#2343195 - 07/25/17 04:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: DusterKid]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4104
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By DusterKid
One thing to remember about a roll bar vs roll cage is tubing diameter. With a 6 pt bar the bars (atleast the main hoop) is required to be larger in diameter than if you have a entire cage. I forget the actual tubing size, but if the cage was a kit for a 10 pt cage than cutting out the bars may not make the 6 pt portion legal.

Might be wrong, don't have rule book in hand right now. Mild steel 1-5/8 x.120 dom, CM .083 x 1-5/8, welded seam type 1-3/4 x .134 wall. Side bars, if X, then 1-1/2 x .065, if single, same as hoop, seat bar 1/14 x .065

Top
#2343252 - 07/25/17 06:38 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
As far as I can tell if you have a 5 point (or 6 point) roll bar then the main hoop needs to be 1 3/4. That is good to 10.00.

The 8 point cage can be 1 5/8 mtl and is required if you get into the 9's.

The main hoop on this cage is 1 5/8 so I think I'm just going to cut the whole thing out and start over.

Any recommendations for a roll bar kit? I see that Jeg's has them, Art Morrison, Comp Engineering, etc. From what I can tell all of the kits are really crude with no fishmouthing on the tubes or anything like that. It is basically just a bunch of straight tubes in a box plus the main hoop. The rest is DIY.

Top
#2343454 - 07/25/17 11:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8097
Loc: Rogue River, OR

Top
#2343545 - 07/26/17 07:40 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
HardcoreB Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 2568
Loc: Shelby Twp. Mi
Originally Posted By AndyF
As far as I can tell if you have a 5 point (or 6 point) roll bar then the main hoop needs to be 1 3/4. That is good to 10.00.

The 8 point cage can be 1 5/8 mtl and is required if you get into the 9's.

The main hoop on this cage is 1 5/8 so I think I'm just going to cut the whole thing out and start over.

Any recommendations for a roll bar kit? I see that Jeg's has them, Art Morrison, Comp Engineering, etc. From what I can tell all of the kits are really crude with no fishmouthing on the tubes or anything like that. It is basically just a bunch of straight tubes in a box plus the main hoop. The rest is DIY.

I have put 2 of Chris Alston Chassisworks kits in A-bodies. I think they do a good job for a decent fit especially the main hoop AND side door-bar fit. I have helped install a Jeg's kit in an A-body...it fit poorly. It would be nice and package easier (save time with tin) if you had the rear bars bent to go thru the speaker package tray and weld them down near where a shock crossmember could be intersected. For future owner of course. Call BondoBob...I'd bet he would bend and pre-fit a cage and drop it in the mail..worth a call anyway.


Edited by HardcoreB (07/26/17 07:43 AM)

Top
#2343549 - 07/26/17 08:06 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
an8sec70cuda Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 10426
Loc: Marion, South Carolina [><]
Used a Chris Alston kit in my cuda. Fit pretty good. The chassis shop I used said those kits fit the best out of the pre bent kits you can buy.
_________________________
CHIP
'70 hemicuda...8.91 at 150.5 mph street car...Mopar Action feature Dec. '14
'69 road runner 446" w/ Indy SRs
'69 road runner 440-6, 4 speed...Dad's ride
'71 Demon 340 resto project
'01 Ram 2500 QCSB 4x4 Cummins...toy hauler
'16 Grand Caravan SXT...baby hauler

Top
#2343587 - 07/26/17 09:16 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 16678
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
I have use Alston CHassisworks kits in three A bodies. They fit decent but I had the rear bars bent to go through package tray, which required buying longer rear bars. Also had the front bars bent to better fit the door opening. My goal is to try and hide the cage as much as possible and I am fairly tall so I end up putting the main hoop back a ways too.
_________________________

"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"

Top
#2343612 - 07/26/17 10:10 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Thanks guys, sounds like I'll give Alston a call. They are west coast so that helps. I called Art Morrison the other day but they kind of blew me off so I'll move on.

I think I'm going to get the car running first and then I'll worry about the rollbar after I've figured out some other things. I need to get the seat mounted and sort out the steering wheel placement and the dash and then I'll know where to put the new roll bar.

Top
#2343706 - 07/26/17 12:35 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
B3422W5 Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 10002
Loc: Portage,michigan
Buddy of nine has installed several S&W kits and likes them over anything else for A body.
_________________________
69 Dart GTS, performance upgrades in progress
11.26@ 118.40 best so far. Stock 360 shortblock with eddie heads.

Top
#2343779 - 07/26/17 03:40 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
DusterKid Offline
super stock

Registered: 01/02/05
Posts: 774
Loc: Keymar, MD
I used a 12 pt kit for my Duster back in 06 from Jegs. The 1st main hoop I got wasn't bend correctly. When laid flat on the garage floor the one side was 4"+ off the floor. I contacted them and they sent me another. It still wasn't perfect, but was workable. I got a 10 pt kit for my wife's falcon a few years ago from S&W and everything went together fairly well.

Top
#2343821 - 07/26/17 04:38 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: B3422W5]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
I have a S&W kit in mine as well. Installer never complained.

Top
#2343844 - 07/26/17 05:09 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar dave]
fullmetaljacket Offline
master

Registered: 02/04/03
Posts: 6217
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
This car sits ready wit to me with a nice size tire at that. I would bet it to be an excellent starting platform for whom ever gets it.
Looking at the Coronet in the background, one may wonder what kind of animal that will be.


Edited by fullmetaljacket (07/26/17 05:21 PM)

Top
#2343991 - 07/26/17 09:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Finally got some stuff cleared out and blew away the cobwebs so I could shoot a picture of the interior. Like I said, this car is gutted!

I'm not going to put much back in the car. Pedals obviously and a steering column and the top part of the dash with the dash pad and the VIN. That is about it, bare bones.

Good thing is that it is fairly clean. No rust problems to speak off and nothing has been hit or tore up. Just a few extra holes in the firewall that people drilled over the years but that is not a big deal.


Attachments
DSC_0987 (Large).JPG



Top
#2343994 - 07/26/17 09:47 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I need to figure out a steering column for this thing. I looked around and Jegs has a simple tube with bearings and a steering shaft. The shaft is set up for a quick release steering wheel on the driver side, can't really tell what is going on on the other end.

Anyone have a race type steering column that they used and liked? I'm guessing that I'll need to weld a Mopar spline adapter on to the box end then shorten the shaft to length and weld the quick release on the driver end?

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.

Top
#2343996 - 07/26/17 09:55 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
dartman366 Offline


Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 13024
Loc: Mt. Vernon, Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
I need to figure out a steering column for this thing. I looked around and Jegs has a simple tube with bearings and a steering shaft. The shaft is set up for a quick release steering wheel on the driver side, can't really tell what is going on on the other end.

Anyone have a race type steering column that they used and liked? I'm guessing that I'll need to weld a Mopar spline adapter on to the box end then shorten the shaft to length and weld the quick release on the driver end?

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.
Andy, thats the same column kit I put in my car last winter and I like it, plenty of material to set the wheel where you want,also comes with a short piece of moly tube and a smooth bore universal so it can work with a rack and pinion steer, I also had to order the mopar spline universal to attach the column to the stock gear box, the steering wheel hub is the multi spline set-up and not the hex style. up
_________________________
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.

Top
#2345293 - 07/29/17 01:10 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I was curious just what I was working with so I pulled out GG's book and decoded the fender tag.

1972 Duster with 225 engine and 3 speed manual with floor shift.
B1 paint code (Blue Sky) exterior with B5 (medium blue) interior
Bench seat, 2 watt AM radio with drip trough moldings

All of that I understand and can see evidence of here or there.

Then the interesting stuff:
A64 - Gold Duster package?
V4X - Black vinyl roof (Halo)?
V5X - Black body side moldings?

I do not see any evidence of the vinyl roof or the body side moldings so that stuff must have been taken off a long time ago and holes filled or something.

Might have been a nice looking car with the light blue paint and a black vinyl roof. I'll have to search around, I'm not sure I know what a Halo vinyl roof looks like but I'm sure I can find pictures.

Top
#2345294 - 07/29/17 01:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 30542
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Halo = half (partial) of the top work
I've seen and possibly owned one as a parts car up


Edited by Cab_Burge (07/29/17 01:13 PM)
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

Top
#2345377 - 07/29/17 04:40 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudadoug Offline
master

Registered: 08/22/03
Posts: 3029
Loc: Between a rock & a hard place
Originally Posted By AndyF
Finally got some stuff cleared out and blew away the cobwebs so I could shoot a picture of the interior. Like I said, this car is gutted!

I'm not going to put much back in the car. Pedals obviously and a steering column and the top part of the dash with the dash pad and the VIN. That is about it, bare bones.

Good thing is that it is fairly clean. No rust problems to speak off and nothing has been hit or tore up. Just a few extra holes in the firewall that people drilled over the years but that is not a big deal.


It's so awesome starting with a clean base project. Seeing that pic makes me have "non-buyers" regret...

Top
#2345428 - 07/29/17 06:53 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Just-a-dart Offline
super stock

Registered: 02/20/11
Posts: 1148
Loc: Glendora Ca.
With the dash and all the interior out of the car I would suggest you put a cage in the car, not just a roll bar. Then you could have more options.

Looks like a good excuse to buy a bender. I am sure you can find other parts to make with it.
_________________________

"Just a Bracket car dressed up like a streetcar"

Top
#2345449 - 07/29/17 08:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudadoug]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
It was a good deal at $4900 since it came with a bunch of spare parts. But I'm having fun working on it myself and I'm learning a bunch.

Since I didn't take the car apart it is a bit of an Easter Egg hunt putting it back together.

Top
#2345463 - 07/29/17 08:31 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudaman1969 Offline
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4104
Loc: fredericksburg,va
If you don't mind me asking, how much do those digital scales cost, looking to invest in a set like it.
On the roll bar, I found out mine are too small, now ill have to do the full cage( 2 down bars and a halo) anyway they say it'll be better for resale.


Edited by cudaman1969 (07/29/17 08:34 PM)

Top
#2345475 - 07/29/17 09:06 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel?

Top
#2345553 - 07/30/17 12:34 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar dave]
fullmetaljacket Offline
master

Registered: 02/04/03
Posts: 6217
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
My digital scales set me back about $700 beans.

Top
#2345842 - 07/30/17 05:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudaman1969]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By cudaman1969
If you don't mind me asking, how much do those digital scales cost, looking to invest in a set like it.
On the roll bar, I found out mine are too small, now ill have to do the full cage( 2 down bars and a halo) anyway they say it'll be better for resale.


I think I paid around $500 for them but I might not remember correctly since they now cost around $1000. But then again, I think I bought these scales more than 10 years ago so perhaps the price has doubled over time.

Top
#2345843 - 07/30/17 05:27 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar dave]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By mopar dave
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel?


Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this.


Attachments
DSC_9488 (Large).JPG



Top
#2345872 - 07/30/17 06:29 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Yes. That pan would make things alot easier. It would have to be notched on both sides thou as my cross link hits pan at the bend on each end of the cl bar.

Top
#2346005 - 07/30/17 10:09 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ProSport Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 17530
Loc: Akron, Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By mopar dave
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel?


Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this.


I need that pan also, my drag link just hits on the passenger side when turning right. I used a big socket and a big hammer, I was afraid I was gonna split the pan open as I had to really hit it a lot.
_________________________
Sassy Grass street Duster, best of 10.69 at 124 driven to the track with 3.23 gears, naturally aspirated on 93 octane.

Top
#2346008 - 07/30/17 10:14 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: ProSport]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
If i remove the cross link i could do the same, but im afraid of putting a hole in the pan too. Ill figure this out later. Need to drive it first.

Top
#2346387 - 07/31/17 07:50 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
B3422W5 Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 10002
Loc: Portage,michigan
Hahaha...... cant help it. Gotta laugh at you guys putting big blocks in your A bodies, when a 4 inch plus arm small block will likely run just as good and be a 1/10 the hassle, especially when building a high 9 sec or slower car most likely.

Rant over .... lol😀😀😀


Edited by B3422W5 (07/31/17 07:51 PM)
_________________________
69 Dart GTS, performance upgrades in progress
11.26@ 118.40 best so far. Stock 360 shortblock with eddie heads.

Top
#2346605 - 08/01/17 08:40 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
A 408 with old school w2s will go low 10s. But I also have built a big block Dart. I loved it, then sold it

Top
#2354178 - 08/15/17 10:37 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Starting to get some parts for the Duster. New radiator support from US Car Tool and some cool EFI goodies from Holley.


Attachments
DSC_1099 (Large).JPG

DSC_1104 (Large).JPG



Top
#2357142 - 08/20/17 01:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I didn't have any small bolt pattern jack stands so I had to take a break from the car to build a set. I like using the bolt on jack stands since it frees up some room to work. You don't have to fight to get around the tire.


Attachments
DSC_1130 (Large).JPG



Top
#2357167 - 08/20/17 02:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
Those are great. You are a master for sure.

Top
#2368637 - 09/11/17 12:06 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The brackets that Kirkey make didn't come close to fitting this car (looks like they are designed for a flat floor type of car) so I took a shot at making my own brackets. This is the first attempt and it works but I'm going to do a slight redesign. I used 10 ga stainless rather than aluminum and I can feel the difference. Feels nice and solid when I sit in it.


Attachments
DSC_1190 (Large).JPG



Top
#2368639 - 09/11/17 12:09 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I also got the EFI harness all laid out so I could start planning the install. This is a universal harness with COP so I can run 8 coils. I sent the intake to Wilson (hopefully their shop isn't destroyed by Irma). Once the intake is back I'll get the engine buttoned up and start the wiring and plumbing for the EFI system.


Attachments
DSC_1176 (Large).JPG



Top
#2368781 - 09/11/17 10:49 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Mopar_Rich Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1829
Loc: Sonora CA
But you are going to use your cam-sync and crank trigger instead of the distributor, right? And I would suggest using two O2s.

Top
#2368838 - 09/11/17 12:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 30542
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip?
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

Top
#2368884 - 09/11/17 02:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Mopar_Rich]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Mopar_Rich
But you are going to use your cam-sync and crank trigger instead of the distributor, right? And I would suggest using two O2s.


Yes, I'll use the crank trigger and cam sync setup on this engine rather than distributor.

I probably will add a second O2 sensor since the Dominator allows me to. Just have to buy the extra harness and a second sensor.

Top
#2368885 - 09/11/17 02:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Cab_Burge]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip?


I think it is going to end being a hard core street/strip car. No heater, no defrost, no AC, manual steering, manual brakes. Not sure about carpeting. No back seat, no passenger seat, it does have a headliner in it. No wipers but it should have working lights. No horn. So not really 100% street legal but might be able to cruise it without hassle as long as I'm not making a scene.

Nothing says the next owner can't add some creature comforts back to it but right now the car is gutted and it isn't a high priority for me to add stuff like that.

Top
#2371070 - 09/14/17 11:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon

Top
#2371130 - 09/15/17 08:35 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rumblefish72 Offline
member

Registered: 10/07/06
Posts: 116
Loc: Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
Nice article ... and there's another good use for the gantry crane!! Have you ever thought about suspending a whole car from the crane so you could move it to wherever you need it in the shop? Who needs GoJaks when you have a crane like that!

I thought Wilson Manifolds was in Cali but they're in Fort Lauderdale ... Bummer.

On 9/12 they posted on FB:

We're Open!

After a long and stormy weekend, we made it through Irma and are back on track!
Thank you to all who reached out to us during and after the hurricane. We are grateful to have not sustained any damage and to have power today.
We wish all of Florida a speedy recovery during this time.
#FloridaStrong

Please bear with us as we are experiencing technical difficulties with our phone lines currently. smirk

*Call / Email / reach us HERE on FB for any inquiries or orders!*
(954)-771-6216
Wilsonmanifolds.com
_________________________
1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ

Top
#2371149 - 09/15/17 09:44 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
krautrock Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/27/03
Posts: 1633
Loc: central texas
andy are those front spring hanger brackets in the trunk? you planning to redo that?

Top
#2371197 - 09/15/17 11:20 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I am planning to cut out the existing front hangers and to replace them with hangers that I made. I don't like the front hangers that are on the car right now. Problem is that I don't think I can do that job myself so I need to get the car over to a chassis shop so they can help me do the heavy work. I'm more of an engine guy than a chassis guy so I don't have all of the big tools to cut, grind and weld a frame.

Top
#2371871 - 09/16/17 06:58 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I pulled the cover off the S60 rearend to check it out. This is a brand new rear end that DoctorDiff built about 6 or 7 years ago. Never any lube in the rearend so the setup marks can still be seen. 4.56 gears with a Detroit Locker. Should be a fun ride once I get it going.


Attachments
DSC_1210 (Large).JPG



Top
#2371898 - 09/16/17 08:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Just-a-dart]
hemi-itis Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 12/29/07
Posts: 10436
Loc: Great Neck,LI,new york
Originally Posted By Just-a-dart
With the dash and all the interior out of the car I would suggest you put a cage in the car, not just a roll bar. Then you could have more options.

Looks like a good excuse to buy a bender. I am sure you can find other parts to make with it.

I agree that a CM cage should be installed from the start."J" bars and a mid plate too.That way it's DONE and the next caretaker can go right to 8.5 with it.
I saw a car with the truck directional switch and I didn't like it.Might consider a stock column gutted like Doug.
_________________________
HEMI-ITIS has no cure. My condition is fully BLOWN!!!

New best 60ft,, 1.42,1/8, 6.0 @117,, 9.38 @146.75 with 6 lbs boost @3700 lbs

Top
#2371965 - 09/16/17 09:54 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I think I have the alternator mount figured out so one more item to check off the list. Oil pump, oil pan, filter all seem to fit also so that is good.


Attachments
DSC_1237 (Large).JPG



Top
#2371972 - 09/16/17 09:58 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I think I have the transmission all sorted out too. Turbo Action built a torque converter for me and I picked up a SFI flex plate from B&M. Everything seems to fit together once I pawed thru my bolt drawer and found the correct bolts. I don't usually do run an automatic so I had to dig around a bit to find flex plate bolts.


Attachments
DSC_1227 (Large).JPG




Edited by AndyF (09/16/17 09:59 PM)

Top
#2376888 - 09/25/17 10:19 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I cut the column down and installed a Flaming River u-joint. I think I have the steering wheel position close enough for now. The seat can be adjusted so I'll just have to try it and see if everything feels right.

Next project is to locate the shifter and get it hooked up. Takes a lot of work when you build these things from the ground up! Not the same as just bolting them back together.....


Attachments
DSC_1281 (Large).JPG

DSC_1283 (Large).JPG



Top
#2376901 - 09/25/17 10:30 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!

Registered: 05/03/08
Posts: 1021
Loc: 1940 North Victory Boulevard ...
Keep in mind that the factory coupling is a slip-joint put in place to allow the front of the car to flex around without jamming the steering column all to heck. It might be possible to build in that degree of freedom under the dash or just let the shaft 'telescope' to allow for it.
twocents

Top
#2376931 - 09/25/17 11:44 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: @#$%&*!]
Gabby63 Offline
member

Registered: 09/21/10
Posts: 135
Loc: Indiana
Andy is your coupler welded to the shaft or just pinned ? Gary

Top
#2376945 - 09/26/17 01:08 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The Flaming River u-joint is held on with a roll pin.

Top
#2377056 - 09/26/17 09:59 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
340Cuda Offline
top fuel

Registered: 04/04/03
Posts: 1882
Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Andy,

Looking good, thanks for sharing the build.

Could your seat brackets be a possible product?

That "Pivot Plate" looks neat, never seen one before.

Bill

Top
#2377112 - 09/26/17 10:55 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I can make more seat brackets if people want them. I don't think I'll make the rails though since I'm not sure what all they would fit. The brackets would fit on any flat floor.

If you have a stock floor then you need to make it flat somehow. I made rails from aluminum bar stock and bolted the rails to floor. The rails gave me two flat areas to bolt the brackets to.

Top
#2377116 - 09/26/17 10:59 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Yeah the Pivot Plate is a nice tool. It only takes me a few minutes to install the engine and trans using that pivot plate. You just tilt the whole assembly down to go in and then slowing rotate it back to level as you clear the K frame and tie rod. The engine and trans can then be raised just enough to install the motor plate and transmission crossmember and then you drop it in place and tighten up the bolts. I think it took me less than 5 minutes to slide the engine and trans into place last time.

Top
#2377603 - 09/27/17 08:47 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dart451 Offline
mopar

Registered: 01/14/04
Posts: 485
Loc: IL
Originally Posted By AndyF
I need to figure out a steering column for this thing. I looked around and Jegs has a simple tube with bearings and a steering shaft. The shaft is set up for a quick release steering wheel on the driver side, can't really tell what is going on on the other end.

Anyone have a race type steering column that they used and liked? I'm guessing that I'll need to weld a Mopar spline adapter on to the box end then shorten the shaft to length and weld the quick release on the driver end?

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.


Check out

American Autowire 500148 Turn Signal Toggle Switch

Thats what I used for my car. Didn't want the old turn signal box switch on side of the column

Top
#2378096 - 09/27/17 11:43 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The intake is back from Wilson so now I can start installing the EFI system.


Attachments
DSC_1303 (Large).JPG



Top
#2383450 - 10/07/17 01:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Driveshaft from Doctor Diff showed up the other day. Super high quality setup, looks great.


Attachments
DSC_1470 (Large).JPG

DSC_1478 (Large).JPG



Top
#2383552 - 10/07/17 06:05 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dadodgekid Offline
member

Registered: 03/26/07
Posts: 56
Loc: Palm City, FL
thats a thing of beauty!

Top
#2383769 - 10/08/17 08:45 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Bad340fish Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 5557
Loc: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted By AndyF
The intake is back from Wilson so now I can start installing the EFI system.


Do you have manifold vacuum(KPA) vs barometer KPA readings from your dyno pulls? My 416 pulls some vacuum on that same throttle body. Its about 4-6 KPA and some people say its worth nothing and some people say they picked up 30HP swapping to a larger throttle body when seeing vacuum.

Looks like Wilson did a nice job on the manifold.
_________________________
68 Barracuda Formula S 340

Top
#2383928 - 10/08/17 01:40 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Not on this engine. Not sure if I'll run this engine on the dyno or not, might just fire it up in the car and go from there. This engine has been on the dyno before but not with the EFI setup. On my 514 there was a little bit of manifold vacuum even with a 2000 cfm throttle body. I'm not going to worry about it on the Duster though since it probably has enough beans to run 9's and I'm only putting a rollbar in it. I'll most likely have to throttle stop this engine to stay legal at the track.

Top
#2387934 - 10/15/17 09:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I've been trying to figure out the rear shock mounts since I got the car. The car came with Rancho shocks but they were about 6 inches too long to fit. I bought the shorter shocks from Calvert but they were still too long. Finally decided to build my own shock plates to make it work. While I was designing the plate I decided to change the lower shock mount to a double shear rather than the cantilever pin. The double shear is stronger and easier to put together. Just push the bolt thru the bracket rather than trying to twist the shock on over the upper and lower pins. Here are a couple of pictures of the first prototype. I think this design will work so now I just need to refine it and make some more.


Attachments
DSC_1547 (Large).JPG

DSC_1546 (Large).JPG




Edited by AndyF (10/15/17 09:42 PM)

Top
#2387936 - 10/15/17 09:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Had to build my own throttle bracket to clear the EFI rails. Not too tough of a job for me since I've been making throttle brackets for the last 20 years....


Attachments
DSC_1508 (Large).JPG



Top
#2388907 - 10/17/17 05:23 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
MoonshineMattK Offline
member

Registered: 09/17/17
Posts: 4
Loc: NW Illinois
I'm enjoying your threads. Thanks for taking the time to post and upload pics

Top
#2389073 - 10/17/17 10:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: MoonshineMattK]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By MoonshineMattK
I'm enjoying your threads. Thanks for taking the time to post and upload pics


No problem, glad you are enjoying the thread. I'm working a few hours a day on the Duster so it just keeps moving along. The work isn't going super fast but I'm making progress every day.

Top
#2391367 - 10/22/17 05:08 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Here are a couple more shots of the rear shock plates. I put the lower eye bolt in a location that gave me more than an inch of extension left at full droop and roughly 2.5 inches of compression at ride height. This should be close enough for now and I can tweak it once I get the car running.


Attachments
DSC_1587 (Large).JPG

DSC_1588 (Large).JPG



Top
#2391377 - 10/22/17 05:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
dartman366 Offline


Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 13024
Loc: Mt. Vernon, Ohio
Some pretty sharp looking brackets, are those laser cut and cnc formed? we have those machines where I work and they do an awesome job and spot on accurate.
_________________________
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.

Top
#2391378 - 10/22/17 05:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Superfreak Offline
master

Registered: 11/08/08
Posts: 3559
Loc: the great white north
Andy,

do you still have the Hemi billet timing covers?

Thanks
_________________________
"Too much to do and not enough time to do it"

Top
#2391485 - 10/22/17 08:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: dartman366]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By dartman366
Some pretty sharp looking brackets, are those laser cut and cnc formed? we have those machines where I work and they do an awesome job and spot on accurate.


I get all of my stuff laser cut but I bend on a manual brake. I don't have the money to afford a CNC brake press.

Top
#2391486 - 10/22/17 08:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Superfreak]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Superfreak
Andy,

do you still have the Hemi billet timing covers?

Thanks


Yes, standard product on the shelf. Mancini Racing or Hughes Engines should be able to get you one

Top
#2391533 - 10/22/17 09:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Saskabusa Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/20/05
Posts: 252
Loc: Scatchamatoon
Are you going to reinforce the upper mount?
_________________________
1974 Roadrunner

1967 Charger

Top
#2391619 - 10/23/17 01:32 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
LPW makes some nice stuff!

Top
#2392671 - 10/24/17 10:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Second article is posted on the Hot Rod website: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-dustb...-marker-lights/

Top
#2401033 - 11/09/17 01:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The fenderwells are cut out on this car for headers so I made a small patch panel to hold the coils. Not sure if I'm going this way or not but I might. It seems like it will work.

I also made a two piece cover for the heater hole. That way I could put a grommet in it and hold the bundle of cables for the EFI box. This seems like it will tidy things up and cover up the big hole in the firewall at the same time.


Attachments
DSC_1611 (Large).JPG

DSC_1612 (Large).JPG



Top
#2401051 - 11/09/17 02:04 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
Looks great Andy! Just a thought. You might want those coils mounted low as most BB's have the plug wires happier going from the bottom up.

Top
#2401079 - 11/09/17 03:01 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Yeah I thought about putting them on the frame rail but there are problems with that also. I'm going to wait until after I get some headers to make a final decision on coil mounting.

Top
#2406011 - 11/19/17 03:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Headers are here from TTI. Not sure these suckers are going to fit! This is what TTI wanted me to run on the car so I'll see if I can get them on there.


Attachments
DSC_1651 (Large).JPG



Top
#2406300 - 11/20/17 09:48 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ccdave Offline
The Ultimate

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1734
Loc: Mopar Country, Mi
Great idea fender mounting those coil packs up

Top
#2406525 - 11/20/17 06:50 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dart451]
Sport440 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 6532
Loc: Canton, Ohio
Originally Posted By Dart451
Originally Posted By AndyF
I need to

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.


Check out

American Autowire 500148 Turn Signal Toggle Switch

Thats what I used for my car. Didn't want the old turn signal box switch on side of the column



Thanks for that tip, 27$ at summit. Could mount the switch on the column as well

Top
#2411889 - 12/01/17 03:07 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dave Hall]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
Looks great Andy! Just a thought. You might want those coils mounted low as most BB's have the plug wires happier going from the bottom up.


I'm mocking up the coil packs with the TTi headers and for the passenger side it looks like the cleanest solution appears to be if I mount the coils on the valve cover and then loop short plug wires down between the tubes.

The driver side might not be as simple........


Attachments
DSC_1686 (Large).JPG



Top
#2411903 - 12/01/17 03:57 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
Might be a pain to check lash. You could mount the packs on that huge motor plate and maybe profile the plate to the coils? grin I have those headers on a low deck A-body and they are no fun. Makes things ultra difficult to work on. The starter was the least of it. Save yourself some time and keep the engine and trans. bolted up before you install in the car then let the heartache begin. wrench I couldn't drop the motor in from the top with the headers on it on mine. I think I left the drivers side loose and married the pass. side as it went in. Your cut out core support may allow you to get lucky there. luck

Top
#2411935 - 12/01/17 05:18 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Yeah I can see that these headers will be painful for any sort of maintenance. Replacing the starter is probably a half day job with these headers in the way. And it looks like pulling the trans out of the car will require moving the headers out of the way.

I'll keep looking at different options for the coil packs but right now I'm leaning towards putting them on the valve covers. Pulling the covers isn't that bad, just unclick the connectors and the plug wires and then pull the cover off. The coils come with the cover so you don't have to mess with them.

Top
#2411941 - 12/01/17 05:24 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
I don't know Andy? That #1 exhaust pipe isn't going to cooperate too well with the wires on that side...

Top
#2411991 - 12/01/17 07:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
nss guy Offline
pro stock

Registered: 09/21/06
Posts: 1246
Loc: central ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Yeah I can see that these headers will be painful for any sort of maintenance. Replacing the starter is probably a half day job with these headers in the way. And it looks like pulling the trans out of the car will require moving the headers out of the way.

I'll keep looking at different options for the coil packs but right now I'm leaning towards putting them on the valve covers. Pulling the covers isn't that bad, just unclick the connectors and the plug wires and then pull the cover off. The coils come with the cover so you don't have to mess with them.


I suggest removing the torsion bars for the install, no big deal, keep the bars lubed up for easy removal by hand. Make a pigtail battery cable connection for starter so you can have it wired to starter when installing headers. I use studs on the outer bolt holes for the headers and loosen up all bolts and can get tranny out without completely removing headers.


Edited by nss guy (12/01/17 07:06 PM)

Top
#2412215 - 12/02/17 10:18 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 16678
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
Id suggest having a custom set of headers made. I have had those TTI's on a few customer cars and they are a PITA especially on a racecar where things are changed periodically. Anytime you need the trans out to work on it or swap a converter you will hate them. Not impossible to do but definitely WAY more work than it should be....
_________________________

"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"

Top
#2412309 - 12/02/17 02:34 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dave Hall]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
I don't know Andy? That #1 exhaust pipe isn't going to cooperate too well with the wires on that side...


I think I have it figured out. Will most likely require some custom wires from Gorski though to make it come out clean.

Top
#2412310 - 12/02/17 02:35 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Al_Alguire]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Al_Alguire
Id suggest having a custom set of headers made. I have had those TTI's on a few customer cars and they are a PITA especially on a racecar where things are changed periodically. Anytime you need the trans out to work on it or swap a converter you will hate them. Not impossible to do but definitely WAY more work than it should be....


Yeah, these are big suckers. They tucked them in close to everything which is great if you never have to work on it.

Top
#2412633 - 12/03/17 09:40 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
JAMESDART Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/03/06
Posts: 349
Loc: nj
Did you have them in the car yet? I'm fighting with an older 2" set right now in my dart with low deck and the trick flows.

Top
#2412664 - 12/03/17 11:12 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
TonyS451 Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 3907
Loc: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By Al_Alguire
Id suggest having a custom set of headers made. I have had those TTI's on a few customer cars and they are a PITA especially on a racecar where things are changed periodically. Anytime you need the trans out to work on it or swap a converter you will hate them. Not impossible to do but definitely WAY more work than it should be....


Yeah, these are big suckers. They tucked them in close to everything which is great if you never have to work on it.


Very cool build Andy. I had 2" cppa (tti) on my old 71 Demon and they were a bear to get in and out. They looked good once in (one weekend later), but pray you don't need to do any maintenance. What about the Mazzoloni headers that are a partial fender exit? Those always seemed like a better option for a shelf BB A body header.
_________________________
2 kids and a dog

Top
#2412673 - 12/03/17 11:22 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
I would look at the Maddog headers. very easy install and starter removal doesn't look too bad.

Top
#2412772 - 12/03/17 04:31 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
Bolting up the starter was the least of the nitemare. It's nearly impossible to get to the trans. linkage with the collectors in the way. Nearly impossible to bolt the top bell housing bolts. You have to get creative with the engine and trans. dipstick. The factory steering coupler won't work. Should I continue?

Top
#2412938 - 12/04/17 12:21 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Yeah I see what you mean. I put the driver's side header in today and it was a grade A nightmare to install. I had to get the car way up in the air and then use the bridge crane to lift the engine so I could wiggle the header in from below. Looks like they are designed to be installed on a lift.

I think the best way to R&R the car will be to drop the K frame, then drop the headers, then pull the engine and trans as a unit out the front. For assembly the engine and trans slide in from the front, trans linkage is installed, starter bolts in, and then the headers. Once the headers are in place the K-frame with suspension and brakes is lifted up and bolted in place.

Kind of sucks to have to pop the ball joints and bleed the brakes every time the engine comes out but I'm thinking those are the hoops to jump thru.

Top
#2412942 - 12/04/17 12:44 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
Just keep fighting! My dart has a trans. leak and I ain't going anywhere near it for awhile. Not until I do my hand and finger aerobics for a month or so...I don't know how many times I got out from underneath the car and just swore up and down that I would beat the living God out of it when I got it running! I make good on my promises and it's a hoot!

Top
#2412958 - 12/04/17 02:30 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Yep. My 1 7/8 TTI's were alot of trouble to install as well. The Maddogs go in 1 tube at a time. Way easier.

Top
#2413135 - 12/04/17 01:31 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The tti website says their headers will not fit with head studs. Actually they fit just fine with head studs as long as you use the ARP 2.725 long studs. I wrote this up in my BB book about 10 years ago but evidently not everyone paid attention.........


Attachments
DSC_1712 (Large).JPG



Top
#2413347 - 12/04/17 09:22 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dave Hall]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
I don't know Andy? That #1 exhaust pipe isn't going to cooperate too well with the wires on that side...


I think it will work just fine to loop the plug wires up to the coils on the valve cover. I need to get Rick at Firecore to make me some sample wires to make sure it all fits but I've mocked it up a couple of times and it seems okay.


Attachments
DSC_1714 (Large).JPG



Top
#2413536 - 12/05/17 10:01 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 16678
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
I think it will be equally difficult for 1,3,5 and 7
_________________________

"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"

Top
#2413707 - 12/05/17 03:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar dave]
493_DART Offline


Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 4327
Loc: ON A PREVOST
Originally Posted By mopar dave
Yep. My 1 7/8 TTI's were alot of trouble to install as well. The Maddogs go in 1 tube at a time. Way easier.




The Maddog site only lists ford / chevy headers ??

Top
#2415717 - 12/09/17 11:15 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Al_Alguire]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Al_Alguire
I think it will be equally difficult for 1,3,5 and 7


I'm pretty sure that plug wires are going to be the least of my worries but it will be a couple of weeks before I have the parts in hand to prove it.

Top
#2415720 - 12/09/17 11:18 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Back to working on the rear end. The Dana 60 was not welded to the perches and it wasn't in the correct location when I got the car so I'm working on getting everything properly aligned. First off, that Dana 60 is a beast! I tried to move it around with a floor jack but that didn't work. I'm working by myself so I don't have any help to move heavy stuff around. I finally gave up and designed a little mount for my trans jack so I can safely move the Dana 60 around. With this jack mount I can rotate, tilt, lift, shift etc. and get the housing into the correct location by myself.


Attachments
DSC_1724 (Large).JPG

DSC_1728 (Large).JPG



Top
#2415765 - 12/09/17 01:10 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 30542
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Looks good Andy up
I want one now grin
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

Top
#2415782 - 12/09/17 02:01 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: 493_DART]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5438
Loc: flint michigan
Yeah dont know whats up with that. May make a call and see. They did have mopar headers on their site not long ago as i was looking at them.

Top
#2415944 - 12/09/17 07:56 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
iagree You have lot's of other things to think about. I was trying to challenge you a little to think outside the box on the coils. Did you ever get the shifter rods to work?

Top
#2418010 - 12/13/17 01:28 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I dropped the front suspension out of the car so I could install the headers. 5 minute job once the K frame is out of the car. With the suspension out of the car I used the body wheels from US Car Tool to support the car. I think I'll eventually get a process figured out for working on this car but it is going to take some time (and money)! The big headers and the big Dana 60 rearend really chew up the space at both ends of the car. Maintenance becomes a hassle. I understand why guys just go ahead and step up to tube chassis cars with removable panels and all of that.


Attachments
DSC_1721 (Large).JPG

DSC_1752 (Large).JPG




Edited by AndyF (12/13/17 01:29 PM)

Top
#2418015 - 12/13/17 01:31 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
With my new Dana 60 cradle I can wheel the assembly in and out of the car pretty quickly now. Guess it is just an example of having the right tool for the job. In this case I had to design the tool myself but guess that is how it works sometimes.


Attachments
DSC_1741 (Large).JPG



Top
#2418018 - 12/13/17 01:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Starting to work on the trunk area. I think I have it all figured out now in terms of where the fuel cell goes and how to plumb up the fuel system.


Attachments
DSC_1750 (Large).JPG

DSC_1751 (Large).JPG



Top
#2419655 - 12/16/17 08:34 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Got the trans cooler mounted to the bottom of the trunk floor and installed. Also picked up a CSR shield and a Moroso pan for the trans.


Attachments
DSC_1770 (Large).JPG

DSC_1715 (Large).JPG




Edited by AndyF (12/16/17 08:35 PM)

Top
#2419657 - 12/16/17 08:37 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Got the ears cut off the trans so the CSR shield would fit and I welded in a couple of crossmembers under the trunk floor to hold everything nice and secure back there.


Attachments
DSC_1760 (Large).JPG

DSC_1766 (Large).JPG



Top
#2419793 - 12/17/17 09:29 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By AndyF
Got the trans cooler mounted to the bottom of the trunk floor and installed. Also picked up a CSR shield and a Moroso pan for the trans.

andy, could you show a side pic [if you have one] of the transmission cooler spacing to the trunk floor ? i'm guessing the fan is blowing up towards the bottom of the trunk floor ? thanks !
beer

Top
#2419934 - 12/17/17 02:48 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I think the fan pulls air down thru the core. There is a fairly large air gap between the radiator core and the bottom of the trunk floor. The Derale cooler comes as an assembly, you just bolt it on.

https://derale.com/products/fluid-cooler...ling-pan-detail


Edited by AndyF (12/17/17 03:02 PM)

Top
#2419942 - 12/17/17 03:21 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I built a fixture for my floor jack so I can hold the entire front suspension setup. This allows me to just pull the K frame bolts and drop it out. I can stash the front suspension in a corner of the shop until I'm ready to put it back in and then just lift it into place with the trans jack.


Attachments
DSC_1776 (Large).JPG

DSC_1773 (Large).JPG



Top
#2419958 - 12/17/17 04:00 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!

Registered: 05/03/08
Posts: 1021
Loc: 1940 North Victory Boulevard ...
Originally Posted By AndyF
I built a fixture for my floor jack so I can hold the entire front suspension setup.
...


That one is gonna need an ARxxx part #.
up

Top
#2419971 - 12/17/17 04:47 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
It is a super handy tool but I doubt I'd sell very many of them. Besides, the shipping cost would be really high. I could sell a "u weld it" kit though and guys could make their own from a piece of tubing.

Top
#2421264 - 12/19/17 10:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
sunroofgtx Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 07/03/03
Posts: 12112
Loc: Cleveland
Andy, did you choose a fuel cell yet? Call me if not. Great work. Such a clean and well-thought out build.


https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/20g-eliminator-stealth-fuel-cell/


Edited by sunroofgtx (12/19/17 10:20 PM)
_________________________
Join the quickest team in motorsports. Team FireCore. CustomWiresets.com

Top
#2425042 - 12/28/17 05:09 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Decided to install a new Strange pinion yoke with an 8 magnet trigger wheel. This will give me driveshaft speed as well as a signal for the speedometer. Maybe even an odometer? Or I might use GPS for the odometer, not sure yet.

One problem I ran into is that this pinion yoke is 1/2 inch longer than the yoke that was on there so now I'll need to shorten my brand new driveshaft.


Attachments
DSC_1844 (Large).JPG

DSC_1846 (Large).JPG



Top
#2425043 - 12/28/17 05:11 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Starting to mock up the front brakes. This car has the original 4 piston disc brakes on the front but I don't think they will be up to the task of stopping the car. So I'm thinking that I'll pull the factory disc brakes off the car and sell them and then put these 13 inch rotors with Viper calipers up front. DoctorDiff sells the parts to do this swap so I'll work with him to get it all figured out.


Attachments
DSC_1849 (Large).JPG

DSC_1852 (Large).JPG



Top
#2425050 - 12/28/17 05:37 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 30542
Loc: Bend,OR USA
We used the stock OEM 1967 to 1972 Kelsey Hayes four piston calipers, pads and rotors on my old 1970 bracket Duster with all three motors, SB, M.W. 440 Wedge and the cross ram M.P. 426 race hemi motor that ran 142.+ MPH in the 1/4 mile with no issues stopping it any where shruggy
That was not on the street in traffic either work
Way better to have way more brakes on the car than you need, huh whistling up
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

Top
#2425183 - 12/28/17 09:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Sport440 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 6532
Loc: Canton, Ohio
Whats the silver steel round tab for, to hold the driveshaft wheel sensor? Might not be the best place for it. Might try to act like a snubber.

Top
#2425351 - 12/29/17 11:11 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Sport440]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Sport440
Whats the silver steel round tab for, to hold the driveshaft wheel sensor? Might not be the best place for it. Might try to act like a snubber.


No, that is the lift hook so I can move the rear end around.


Attachments
DSC_1676 (Large).JPG



Top
#2426005 - 12/30/17 04:29 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
upnover Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/27/04
Posts: 1833
Loc: tulsa ok
great read and a great build, id suggest a differant fuel pump, the holleys arent any good, got a buddy that had a car built and the pump was a failure from initail startup, shop that installed it has 5 other bad ones in the shop .

Top
#2426110 - 12/30/17 08:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: upnover]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By upnover
great read and a great build, id suggest a differant fuel pump, the holleys arent any good, got a buddy that had a car built and the pump was a failure from initail startup, shop that installed it has 5 other bad ones in the shop .


I guess I'll take my chances. I have a Holley pump in the dyno cell and it has been working fine since day one. I like the integrated regulator and filter combo that Holley sells too even though other people tell me not to use it.

Top
#2426188 - 12/31/17 12:17 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
iagree I've had a Holley Volumax pump for over ten years in the Challenger with more than 1,500 passes!

Top
#2428467 - 01/03/18 05:52 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Got the DoctorDiff 13 inch front brake kit mocked up on the Duster. Looks killer. Now I need to figure out which wheels to buy. I'll need a 17 inch rim that is probably 6 inches wide. Weld makes some race 17 inch rims so I might go with them.


Attachments
DSC_1943 (Large).JPG



Top
#2428605 - 01/03/18 08:56 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Happy Birthday OhioMopar Offline
master

Registered: 08/17/03
Posts: 8076
Loc: Mt.Gilead, Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Starting to mock up the front brakes. This car has the original 4 piston disc brakes on the front but I don't think they will be up to the task of stopping the car. So I'm thinking that I'll pull the factory disc brakes off the car and sell them and then put these 13 inch rotors with Viper calipers up front. DoctorDiff sells the parts to do this swap so I'll work with him to get it all figured out.

If you end up selling the front discs, I might be interested. There may be an A-body coming home soon. Nowhere near as clean as yours, though.
I am always amazed by your fabrication skills. I need to learn to whip up stuff I need rather than buying it. Well done. This is a fun thread.
_________________________

Looking for my original 383 block. Last seen around the Atlanta area. 7449 are the last 4 of the VIN.

Top
#2428983 - 01/04/18 02:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 16678
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
Well Id look to keep the front wheel as narrow as possible. Weld sells 17" front race wheels as well as other...
_________________________

"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"

Top
#2429005 - 01/04/18 03:18 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I'm thinking I'll use a 17x6 wheel with a 205/55-17 tire but I haven't nailed it down yet. The car had a 15x6 wheel on it before with a 205/60-15 tire so my new combo will be roughly the same, just a little taller. I thought the old tires were a little too short.

Top
#2429006 - 01/04/18 03:21 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
I was reading over the post and initially you were going to get it running and sell it. Has the goal changed?

Top
#2429165 - 01/04/18 05:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dave Hall]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
I was reading over the post and initially you were going to get it running and sell it. Has the goal changed?


Let's just say the goal posts have moved. Sponsor money means I need to put a lot more effort into the project.

Top
#2431403 - 01/08/18 09:50 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Sport440 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 6532
Loc: Canton, Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
I was reading over the post and initially you were going to get it running and sell it. Has the goal changed?


Let's just say the goal posts have moved. Sponsor money means I need to put a lot more effort into the project.


Sponsor money??,, Just where have the Goal Posts moved to. I hope that means not only adding a lot of Sponsored parts, but using all those combined parts and maybe running this Duster down the track.

Your engine building Hp producing dyno skills are Stellar. Maybe we will get to see your skills of applying that Hp down the track in the sponsored Duster???

I hope that's where the new Goal Post has moved smile up .

Top
#2431866 - 01/09/18 07:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
fourgearsavoy Offline


Registered: 12/07/04
Posts: 9160
Loc: Rittman Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Decided to install a new Strange pinion yoke with an 8 magnet trigger wheel. This will give me driveshaft speed as well as a signal for the speedometer. Maybe even an odometer? Or I might use GPS for the odometer, not sure yet.

One problem I ran into is that this pinion yoke is 1/2 inch longer than the yoke that was on there so now I'll need to shorten my brand new driveshaft.


Couldn't you just move the rear back 1/4" and the drivetrain forward 1/4" and not cut that beautiful drive shaft shruggy Just put a spacer on the front spring hanger and call it good twocents

Gus beer
_________________________
64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60

Top
#2431929 - 01/09/18 08:37 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: fourgearsavoy]
Sport440 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 6532
Loc: Canton, Ohio
[quote=fourgearsavoy][quote=AndyF]Decided to install a new Strange pinion yoke with an 8 magnet trigger wheel. This will give me driveshaft speed as well as a signal for the speedometer. Maybe even an odometer? Or I might use GPS for the odometer, not sure yet.


No need to use a GPS for the odometer. The same trigger wheels signal sent to a Electronic programmable speedometer actuates both MPH and odometer miles. You may even be able to Share the signal from just one pick up to feed your both your Electronic Speedometer and your other driveshaft race pac system.

Autometer sells Electronic programmable speedometers. The one I bought was the ATM 1388, for like 130 bucs. registered MPH and odometer miles with the same signal. Installed it on a 38ft, oil well swab truck, Pretty trick for a rig like that.


Further, programing it wasn't that complicated as you would think. You would think that you would have to consider Rear gear ratio and tire size, to figure all the math out.

Nope, all that was needed was to go measure out a mile with a vehicle and mark it, then get at the start line, with the rig, hit the programming button on the speedo, and drive to the measured mile, re hit the program button, and you done. .




Edited by Sport440 (01/09/18 09:00 PM)

Top
#2432054 - 01/10/18 12:20 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: fourgearsavoy]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By fourgearsavoy
Originally Posted By AndyF
Decided to install a new Strange pinion yoke with an 8 magnet trigger wheel. This will give me driveshaft speed as well as a signal for the speedometer. Maybe even an odometer? Or I might use GPS for the odometer, not sure yet.

One problem I ran into is that this pinion yoke is 1/2 inch longer than the yoke that was on there so now I'll need to shorten my brand new driveshaft.


Couldn't you just move the rear back 1/4" and the drivetrain forward 1/4" and not cut that beautiful drive shaft shruggy Just put a spacer on the front spring hanger and call it good twocents

Gus beer


I couldn't think of a good alternative to cutting the driveshaft so I shipped it back to Strange. They only charge $80 to shorten the driveshaft so I figured that was the cost I had to pay for changing my mind.

The engine and rear end location are fairly well locked in at this point. The headers are so big that they dictate where the engine has to be and the rear leaf hangers have been welded into the frame so there is no easy way to move them. The rear tires are very large and the tubs were built around them so I don't think I want to move the rear axle.

Top
#2432198 - 01/10/18 11:34 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Sport440]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Sport440
[quote=fourgearsavoy][quote=AndyF]Decided to install a new Strange pinion yoke with an 8 magnet trigger wheel. This will give me driveshaft speed as well as a signal for the speedometer. Maybe even an odometer? Or I might use GPS for the odometer, not sure yet.


No need to use a GPS for the odometer. The same trigger wheels signal sent to a Electronic programmable speedometer actuates both MPH and odometer miles. You may even be able to Share the signal from just one pick up to feed your both your Electronic Speedometer and your other driveshaft race pac system.

Autometer sells Electronic programmable speedometers. The one I bought was the ATM 1388, for like 130 bucs. registered MPH and odometer miles with the same signal. Installed it on a 38ft, oil well swab truck, Pretty trick for a rig like that.


Further, programing it wasn't that complicated as you would think. You would think that you would have to consider Rear gear ratio and tire size, to figure all the math out.

Nope, all that was needed was to go measure out a mile with a vehicle and mark it, then get at the start line, with the rig, hit the programming button on the speedo, and drive to the measured mile, re hit the program button, and you done. .




I haven't figured out the programming end of it yet but the plan at the moment is to run this car without any gauges. I'll just use the digital dash from the EFI system and push all of the data thru it. So the digital dash will have driveshaft RRP and a speedo if I can figure it out and an odometer if I can figure it out.

I've torn out the dash and will not install anything other than a bracket for the LCD. I think I'll also have a starter button and a ignition switch and maybe a headlight switch. Everything else will be controlled by the EFI.

Top
#2433138 - 01/11/18 09:09 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
upnover Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/27/04
Posts: 1833
Loc: tulsa ok
the holley efi and dash uses a seperate gps piece that mounts on the dash for the speedo doesent it?

Top
#2438355 - 01/21/18 10:04 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
340Cuda Offline
top fuel

Registered: 04/04/03
Posts: 1882
Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
I got a new Car Craft magazine yesterday with the what I think is the first installment of Andy's "Dustbin Duster" series.

As you would expect it is well written with lots of photos, many of which Andy has shared with us here.

Top
#2438368 - 01/21/18 10:17 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rowin4 Offline
master

Registered: 06/30/05
Posts: 5955
Loc: gulfport, ms, west mi
That's a pretty good plug for Car Craft. Now i'm going to go out and buy a copy.
_________________________
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead

Top
#2438379 - 01/21/18 10:28 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Mopar_Rich Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1829
Loc: Sonora CA
The Holley digital dash has the odometer function built in as long as you have a driveshaft signal.

Top
#2438414 - 01/21/18 11:41 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I have a driveshaft signal and a new EFI product to add to the list. I tooled up a stainless steel bracket that bolts to the Dana 60 pinion snubber mount and holds a Holley flying magnet sensor.

One odd thing is the Holley instructions for the 554-125 sensor have been updated and now say to not use that sensor as a driveshaft sensor. I wonder why they did that? If the driveshaft has a flying magnet on it then it seems like it would work just fine.

Top
#2438439 - 01/21/18 12:18 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Mopar_Rich Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1829
Loc: Sonora CA
They are probably concerned about the magnet setup. The one that comes with the 554-125 is heavy and you should really have at lease 2 magnets. Just hard to set up.

I always use the FAST 301436 (2 magnet) or one of the ones from Motorsprts Innovations.
http://www.motorsportsinnovations.com/Holley/holley-efi-sensors.html

Or if you really want resolution go 18 pulses per rev from:
https://www.motionraceworks.com/uploads/5/3/8/0/53809729/motion-raceworks-dsss-instructions.pdf


Top
#2439233 - 01/22/18 07:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Mopar_Rich]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I poked around the forums a little more and it looks like the MSD 2348 sensor is the way to go. It is slightly bigger 1/2 inch thread but it is fairly inexpensive at $60 and it has a built in LED which tells you if it is working or not. So I'm going to order one of those and see how it works.

Top
#2440309 - 01/24/18 09:02 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Got the Holley fuel pump today and mounted it in the fuel cell. I think this is a slick setup. Cleans up the trunk area for sure.


Attachments
DSC_2063 (Large).JPG

DSC_2070 (Large).JPG



Top
#2440479 - 01/25/18 08:57 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
andy, what does the knob on the top of the pump do ?
beer

Top
#2440541 - 01/25/18 11:01 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Power knob!

Actually that is the fill port. Just big enough for a funnel or a nozzle on a gas station pump.

Top
#2440551 - 01/25/18 11:16 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar65 Offline
master

Registered: 01/02/04
Posts: 3701
Loc: Central Missouri Fort Leonard...
Originally Posted By AndyF
Power knob!

Actually that is the fill port. Just big enough for a funnel or a nozzle on a gas station pump.


Looks like a great set up Andy. Did you get the 450L pump and did it come with the Fuel line fittings?
_________________________
3520 pound race ready 1973 Street/Strip Dodge Dart - Stock stroke 440/727 10.49 @ 125.0 on 93 pump gas & ET Street Radials. More to come... ( SGT Miller) Proudly served 12 years in the US ARMY RESERVES support our troops

Top
#2440603 - 01/25/18 01:22 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rowin4 Offline
master

Registered: 06/30/05
Posts: 5955
Loc: gulfport, ms, west mi
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?
_________________________
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead

Top
#2440608 - 01/25/18 01:30 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar65]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By mopar65
Originally Posted By AndyF
Power knob!

Actually that is the fill port. Just big enough for a funnel or a nozzle on a gas station pump.


Looks like a great set up Andy. Did you get the 450L pump and did it come with the Fuel line fittings?


Yes, I got the 450L (110 GPH) unit. The fittings were not included.

Top
#2440610 - 01/25/18 01:32 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: rowin4]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.


Attachments
DSC_2065 (Large).JPG



Top
#2440935 - 01/26/18 09:24 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.


that is a neat setup ! and the "power knob" is a very necessary item to have. i wasn't paying too much attention [as always] to the installation location in the cell.
beer

Top
#2441861 - 01/27/18 09:37 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine so I rigged up a locator with a 10 ft piece of tubing. There is a bushing in the tailshaft and bracket on the front of the block that centers the tube in the main bores. Now I can see if the engine is square to the frame and if it is pointed at the rear end. I'm also in the process of locating the rear end so this helps with that. It will also help me get the pinion angle dialed in.


Attachments
DSC_2102 (Large).JPG

DSC_2105 (Large).JPG



Top
#2441863 - 01/27/18 09:39 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I also decided to go with coils on the valve covers. (at least for now)

I had some brackets machined up and now I'll get the wire dimensions over to Custom Wire Rick. I think this will work out pretty good.


Attachments
DSC_2099 (Large).JPG



Top
#2441888 - 01/27/18 10:11 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
RustyM Offline
member

Registered: 02/24/17
Posts: 159
Loc: Texas
Thank you for posting the info and pics Andy- very helpful .

Top
#2441919 - 01/27/18 10:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!

Registered: 05/03/08
Posts: 1021
Loc: 1940 North Victory Boulevard ...
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine...



The TTI web site has specs on where they think the engine should be when using their headers. It's usually the headers that cause the most trouble.
twocents

Top
#2441920 - 01/27/18 10:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Chargerfan68 Offline
mopar

Registered: 10/28/06
Posts: 685
Loc: New York, USA
Yes. Thank you Andy. I also always enjoy seeing the progress on your projects and the innovative ideas you put to use. Coming along nicely
_________________________
1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.

Top
#2441977 - 01/27/18 11:44 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Chargerfan68]
Happy Birthday OhioMopar Offline
master

Registered: 08/17/03
Posts: 8076
Loc: Mt.Gilead, Ohio
Originally Posted By Chargerfan68
Yes. Thank you Andy. I also always enjoy seeing the progress on your projects and the innovative ideas you put to use.

x2
_________________________

Looking for my original 383 block. Last seen around the Atlanta area. 7449 are the last 4 of the VIN.

Top
#2442217 - 01/28/18 11:18 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: @#$%&*!]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By @#$%&*!
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine...



The TTI web site has specs on where they think the engine should be when using their headers. It's usually the headers that cause the most trouble.
twocents


Right, I know where TTI wants the engine but I still need to make sure it is straight in the chassis and that the rear end is properly aligned. Sliding a tube thru the main lines makes it very obvious if the drive train is aligned or not.

Top
#2442273 - 01/28/18 12:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: moparx]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By moparx
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.


that is a neat setup ! and the "power knob" is a very necessary item to have. i wasn't paying too much attention [as always] to the installation location in the cell.
beer


Here is what it looks like in the car. I need to finish the plumbing and the wiring but this gives you the general idea of how it will look.


Attachments
DSC_2106 (Large).JPG



Top
#2442287 - 01/28/18 01:13 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
RustyM Offline
member

Registered: 02/24/17
Posts: 159
Loc: Texas
dang Andy- I think just seeing your bolt bins would be an adventure worth talking about!

Always such nice, clean, well thought out work.
Oh that I could do so well!

Top
#2442809 - 01/29/18 09:07 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: RustyM]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By RustyM
dang Andy- I think just seeing your bolt bins would be an adventure worth talking about!

Always such nice, clean, well thought out work.
Oh that I could do so well!


you and me both ! up
beer

Top
#2443239 - 01/30/18 12:41 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
8secDart Offline
pro stock

Registered: 12/28/04
Posts: 1256
Loc: Salisbury North Carolina
AndyF take and cut the flanges on the headers. Leave the 2 center tubes together and put a slip on collectors. Makes life so much easier. Can get the starter on and off with just removing 1 tube. Trans will come out with just removing 2 tubes on each side. Really makes it worth it.

Top
#2443243 - 01/30/18 12:44 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
8secDart Offline
pro stock

Registered: 12/28/04
Posts: 1256
Loc: Salisbury North Carolina

Top
#2444244 - 01/31/18 06:22 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
It has taken me a long time but I think I'm finally ready to tack the spring perches to the axle tubes. When I got the car the rear end was bolted in place but the perches were loose. I had to get the car put together far enough that I knew where the engine was located and what the angle was so I could get the rearend in the correct location.

I had the engine mounted up a couple of months ago but then the headers arrived and they didn't fit so everything had to be moved around. If I was a chassis builder I'd go broke since I move so slow on this stuff. I suppose some of it is just experience and tools. I have to stop and build jigs or fixtures when ever I try to do something so that slows me down a bunch. Anyway, looks like I'm ready to nail down the engine position and the rear end position now. The 10 ft length of roll bar tubing thru the main bearings really helped me visualize how it fits together.


Attachments
DSC_2123 (Large).JPG

DSC_2120 (Large).JPG

DSC_2126 (Large).JPG



Top
#2444444 - 01/31/18 11:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Online   content
top fuel

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1793
Loc: Cotati, CA
Thanks for taking the time to share the build! Keep going! Looks great!

Top
#2444572 - 02/01/18 09:53 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
moparx Offline
master

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 8501
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By AndyF
If I was a chassis builder I'd go broke since I move so slow on this stuff. I have to stop and build jigs or fixtures when ever I try to do something so that slows me down a bunch.


don't feel bad andy, i'm even slower than you ! i have many, many fixtures and jigs for my humpback, from suspension parts to bushing and cover fixtures for the steering column, and everything in between. that's part of the reason it has taken me 40 odd years to now on this project. and i have a nasty habit to over analyze things. a lot. keep up the good work ! up bow
beer

Top
#2446347 - 02/04/18 02:30 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Well I finally figured out how to make the rear shock plates with the tabs for the Calvert bars and the double shear shock bracket. It took me a few tries to get it right but eventually I came up with a fixture and the correct laser program. Now it looks like everything is in the correct place and it all fits and should work. Getting all of this stuff fabbed up is a big step forward for me.


Attachments
DSC_2135 (Large).JPG

DSC_2136 (Large).JPG

DSC_2137 (Large).JPG



Top
Page 1 of 11 1 2 3 10 11 >

Advertisement
Sponsored Link
Forum Stats
25,247 Registered Members
32 Forums
188,851 Topics
2,202,216 Posts

Most users ever online: 882 @ 03/05/17 10:15 PM
Moparts Newest Topics
...the cool Dads at daycare
by GoodysGotaCuda
04/20/18 08:50 PM
Marine 440 distributor restorers?
by gss
04/20/18 07:55 PM
O/T any forklift mechanics or know of anyone who is?
by mod381
04/20/18 07:52 PM
71 CUDA 340
by CARMAN
04/20/18 07:24 PM