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#2371871 - 09/16/17 06:58 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I pulled the cover off the S60 rearend to check it out. This is a brand new rear end that DoctorDiff built about 6 or 7 years ago. Never any lube in the rearend so the setup marks can still be seen. 4.56 gears with a Detroit Locker. Should be a fun ride once I get it going.


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#2371898 - 09/16/17 08:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Just-a-dart]
hemi-itis Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 12/29/07
Posts: 10770
Loc: Great Neck,LI,new york
Originally Posted By Just-a-dart
With the dash and all the interior out of the car I would suggest you put a cage in the car, not just a roll bar. Then you could have more options.

Looks like a good excuse to buy a bender. I am sure you can find other parts to make with it.

I agree that a CM cage should be installed from the start."J" bars and a mid plate too.That way it's DONE and the next caretaker can go right to 8.5 with it.
I saw a car with the truck directional switch and I didn't like it.Might consider a stock column gutted like Doug.
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HEMI-ITIS has no cure. My condition is fully BLOWN!!!

New best 60ft,, 1.42,1/8, 6.0 @117,, 9.38 @146.75 with 6 lbs boost @3700 lbs

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#2371965 - 09/16/17 09:54 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I think I have the alternator mount figured out so one more item to check off the list. Oil pump, oil pan, filter all seem to fit also so that is good.


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#2371972 - 09/16/17 09:58 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I think I have the transmission all sorted out too. Turbo Action built a torque converter for me and I picked up a SFI flex plate from B&M. Everything seems to fit together once I pawed thru my bolt drawer and found the correct bolts. I don't usually do run an automatic so I had to dig around a bit to find flex plate bolts.


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Edited by AndyF (09/16/17 09:59 PM)

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#2376888 - 09/25/17 10:19 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I cut the column down and installed a Flaming River u-joint. I think I have the steering wheel position close enough for now. The seat can be adjusted so I'll just have to try it and see if everything feels right.

Next project is to locate the shifter and get it hooked up. Takes a lot of work when you build these things from the ground up! Not the same as just bolting them back together.....


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#2376901 - 09/25/17 10:30 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!

Registered: 05/03/08
Posts: 1047
Loc: 1940 North Victory Boulevard ...
Keep in mind that the factory coupling is a slip-joint put in place to allow the front of the car to flex around without jamming the steering column all to heck. It might be possible to build in that degree of freedom under the dash or just let the shaft 'telescope' to allow for it.
twocents

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#2376931 - 09/25/17 11:44 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: @#$%&*!]
Gabby63 Offline
member

Registered: 09/21/10
Posts: 145
Loc: Indiana
Andy is your coupler welded to the shaft or just pinned ? Gary

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#2376945 - 09/26/17 01:08 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
The Flaming River u-joint is held on with a roll pin.

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#2377056 - 09/26/17 09:59 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
340Cuda Offline
top fuel

Registered: 04/04/03
Posts: 2101
Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Andy,

Looking good, thanks for sharing the build.

Could your seat brackets be a possible product?

That "Pivot Plate" looks neat, never seen one before.

Bill

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#2377112 - 09/26/17 10:55 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I can make more seat brackets if people want them. I don't think I'll make the rails though since I'm not sure what all they would fit. The brackets would fit on any flat floor.

If you have a stock floor then you need to make it flat somehow. I made rails from aluminum bar stock and bolted the rails to floor. The rails gave me two flat areas to bolt the brackets to.

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#2377116 - 09/26/17 10:59 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
Yeah the Pivot Plate is a nice tool. It only takes me a few minutes to install the engine and trans using that pivot plate. You just tilt the whole assembly down to go in and then slowing rotate it back to level as you clear the K frame and tie rod. The engine and trans can then be raised just enough to install the motor plate and transmission crossmember and then you drop it in place and tighten up the bolts. I think it took me less than 5 minutes to slide the engine and trans into place last time.

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#2377603 - 09/27/17 08:47 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dart451 Offline
mopar

Registered: 01/14/04
Posts: 524
Loc: IL
Originally Posted By AndyF
I need to figure out a steering column for this thing. I looked around and Jegs has a simple tube with bearings and a steering shaft. The shaft is set up for a quick release steering wheel on the driver side, can't really tell what is going on on the other end.

Anyone have a race type steering column that they used and liked? I'm guessing that I'll need to weld a Mopar spline adapter on to the box end then shorten the shaft to length and weld the quick release on the driver end?

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.


Check out

American Autowire 500148 Turn Signal Toggle Switch

Thats what I used for my car. Didn't want the old turn signal box switch on side of the column

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#2378096 - 09/27/17 11:43 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
The intake is back from Wilson so now I can start installing the EFI system.


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#2383450 - 10/07/17 01:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
Driveshaft from Doctor Diff showed up the other day. Super high quality setup, looks great.


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#2383552 - 10/07/17 06:05 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dadodgekid Offline
member

Registered: 03/26/07
Posts: 65
Loc: Palm City, FL
thats a thing of beauty!

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#2383769 - 10/08/17 08:45 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Bad340fish Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 5827
Loc: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted By AndyF
The intake is back from Wilson so now I can start installing the EFI system.


Do you have manifold vacuum(KPA) vs barometer KPA readings from your dyno pulls? My 416 pulls some vacuum on that same throttle body. Its about 4-6 KPA and some people say its worth nothing and some people say they picked up 30HP swapping to a larger throttle body when seeing vacuum.

Looks like Wilson did a nice job on the manifold.
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#2383928 - 10/08/17 01:40 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
Not on this engine. Not sure if I'll run this engine on the dyno or not, might just fire it up in the car and go from there. This engine has been on the dyno before but not with the EFI setup. On my 514 there was a little bit of manifold vacuum even with a 2000 cfm throttle body. I'm not going to worry about it on the Duster though since it probably has enough beans to run 9's and I'm only putting a rollbar in it. I'll most likely have to throttle stop this engine to stay legal at the track.

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#2387934 - 10/15/17 09:42 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
I've been trying to figure out the rear shock mounts since I got the car. The car came with Rancho shocks but they were about 6 inches too long to fit. I bought the shorter shocks from Calvert but they were still too long. Finally decided to build my own shock plates to make it work. While I was designing the plate I decided to change the lower shock mount to a double shear rather than the cantilever pin. The double shear is stronger and easier to put together. Just push the bolt thru the bracket rather than trying to twist the shock on over the upper and lower pins. Here are a couple of pictures of the first prototype. I think this design will work so now I just need to refine it and make some more.


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Edited by AndyF (10/15/17 09:42 PM)

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#2387936 - 10/15/17 09:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24669
Loc: Oregon
Had to build my own throttle bracket to clear the EFI rails. Not too tough of a job for me since I've been making throttle brackets for the last 20 years....


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#2388907 - 10/17/17 05:23 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
MoonshineMattK Offline
member

Registered: 09/17/17
Posts: 10
Loc: NW Illinois
I'm enjoying your threads. Thanks for taking the time to post and upload pics

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