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#2345842 - 07/30/17 05:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: cudaman1969]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By cudaman1969
If you don't mind me asking, how much do those digital scales cost, looking to invest in a set like it.
On the roll bar, I found out mine are too small, now ill have to do the full cage( 2 down bars and a halo) anyway they say it'll be better for resale.


I think I paid around $500 for them but I might not remember correctly since they now cost around $1000. But then again, I think I bought these scales more than 10 years ago so perhaps the price has doubled over time.

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#2345843 - 07/30/17 05:27 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar dave]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By mopar dave
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel?


Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this.


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#2345872 - 07/30/17 06:29 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5443
Loc: flint michigan
Yes. That pan would make things alot easier. It would have to be notched on both sides thou as my cross link hits pan at the bend on each end of the cl bar.

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#2346005 - 07/30/17 10:09 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ProSport Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 17530
Loc: Akron, Ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By mopar dave
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel?


Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this.


I need that pan also, my drag link just hits on the passenger side when turning right. I used a big socket and a big hammer, I was afraid I was gonna split the pan open as I had to really hit it a lot.
_________________________
Sassy Grass street Duster, best of 10.69 at 124 driven to the track with 3.23 gears, naturally aspirated on 93 octane.

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#2346008 - 07/30/17 10:14 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: ProSport]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5443
Loc: flint michigan
If i remove the cross link i could do the same, but im afraid of putting a hole in the pan too. Ill figure this out later. Need to drive it first.

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#2346387 - 07/31/17 07:50 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
B3422W5 Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 10002
Loc: Portage,michigan
Hahaha...... cant help it. Gotta laugh at you guys putting big blocks in your A bodies, when a 4 inch plus arm small block will likely run just as good and be a 1/10 the hassle, especially when building a high 9 sec or slower car most likely.

Rant over .... lol😀😀😀


Edited by B3422W5 (07/31/17 07:51 PM)
_________________________
69 Dart GTS, performance upgrades in progress
11.26@ 118.40 best so far. Stock 360 shortblock with eddie heads.

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#2346605 - 08/01/17 08:40 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
A 408 with old school w2s will go low 10s. But I also have built a big block Dart. I loved it, then sold it

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#2354178 - 08/15/17 10:37 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Starting to get some parts for the Duster. New radiator support from US Car Tool and some cool EFI goodies from Holley.


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#2357142 - 08/20/17 01:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I didn't have any small bolt pattern jack stands so I had to take a break from the car to build a set. I like using the bolt on jack stands since it frees up some room to work. You don't have to fight to get around the tire.


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#2357167 - 08/20/17 02:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
killermopar Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/13/10
Posts: 1308
Loc: Spencer NY
Those are great. You are a master for sure.

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#2368637 - 09/11/17 12:06 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
The brackets that Kirkey make didn't come close to fitting this car (looks like they are designed for a flat floor type of car) so I took a shot at making my own brackets. This is the first attempt and it works but I'm going to do a slight redesign. I used 10 ga stainless rather than aluminum and I can feel the difference. Feels nice and solid when I sit in it.


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#2368639 - 09/11/17 12:09 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I also got the EFI harness all laid out so I could start planning the install. This is a universal harness with COP so I can run 8 coils. I sent the intake to Wilson (hopefully their shop isn't destroyed by Irma). Once the intake is back I'll get the engine buttoned up and start the wiring and plumbing for the EFI system.


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#2368781 - 09/11/17 10:49 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Mopar_Rich Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1829
Loc: Sonora CA
But you are going to use your cam-sync and crank trigger instead of the distributor, right? And I would suggest using two O2s.

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#2368838 - 09/11/17 12:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 30548
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip?
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

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#2368884 - 09/11/17 02:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Mopar_Rich]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Mopar_Rich
But you are going to use your cam-sync and crank trigger instead of the distributor, right? And I would suggest using two O2s.


Yes, I'll use the crank trigger and cam sync setup on this engine rather than distributor.

I probably will add a second O2 sensor since the Dominator allows me to. Just have to buy the extra harness and a second sensor.

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#2368885 - 09/11/17 02:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Cab_Burge]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip?


I think it is going to end being a hard core street/strip car. No heater, no defrost, no AC, manual steering, manual brakes. Not sure about carpeting. No back seat, no passenger seat, it does have a headliner in it. No wipers but it should have working lights. No horn. So not really 100% street legal but might be able to cruise it without hassle as long as I'm not making a scene.

Nothing says the next owner can't add some creature comforts back to it but right now the car is gutted and it isn't a high priority for me to add stuff like that.

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#2371070 - 09/14/17 11:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon

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#2371130 - 09/15/17 08:35 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rumblefish72 Offline
member

Registered: 10/07/06
Posts: 116
Loc: Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
Nice article ... and there's another good use for the gantry crane!! Have you ever thought about suspending a whole car from the crane so you could move it to wherever you need it in the shop? Who needs GoJaks when you have a crane like that!

I thought Wilson Manifolds was in Cali but they're in Fort Lauderdale ... Bummer.

On 9/12 they posted on FB:

We're Open!

After a long and stormy weekend, we made it through Irma and are back on track!
Thank you to all who reached out to us during and after the hurricane. We are grateful to have not sustained any damage and to have power today.
We wish all of Florida a speedy recovery during this time.
#FloridaStrong

Please bear with us as we are experiencing technical difficulties with our phone lines currently. smirk

*Call / Email / reach us HERE on FB for any inquiries or orders!*
(954)-771-6216
Wilsonmanifolds.com
_________________________
1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ

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#2371149 - 09/15/17 09:44 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
krautrock Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/27/03
Posts: 1633
Loc: central texas
andy are those front spring hanger brackets in the trunk? you planning to redo that?

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#2371197 - 09/15/17 11:20 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23815
Loc: Oregon
I am planning to cut out the existing front hangers and to replace them with hangers that I made. I don't like the front hangers that are on the car right now. Problem is that I don't think I can do that job myself so I need to get the car over to a chassis shop so they can help me do the heavy work. I'm more of an engine guy than a chassis guy so I don't have all of the big tools to cut, grind and weld a frame.

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