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#2342561 - 07/24/17 03:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24513
Loc: Oregon
Just to get a starting point I put the car up on the scales. Obviously the car isn't complete so I added weight to estimate where I'd end up. I put a battery in the trunk as well as the fuel pumps and then added 35 lbs of ballast for the fuel. I put weight in the driver seat for a driver and I put the starter, water pump and stuff like that in a box on the front fender. The radiator is in place but it is dry. The car is missing a driveshaft and the torque convertor so I'm light there.

Anyway it comes out to 2800 lbs as is so I'm thinking I should be able to go down the track at less than 3000 lbs. I need to add wiring and plumbing and a front windshield so I know I'm light, but I don't think I'm more than 200 lbs light.

Interesting thing was the weight distribution. Looks almost perfectly square front to back and side to side. I'll keep an eye on the corner weights as I build the car. Love to see it go down the track with a 50/50 weight distribution. That should help it hook......


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#2342593 - 07/24/17 04:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
roadhazard Offline
master

Registered: 04/29/06
Posts: 3675
Loc: Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
An honest 700 HP @ 3,000#
You may as well put the 10 point in and get it over with....

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#2342599 - 07/24/17 04:38 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
rb446 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/17/15
Posts: 259
Loc: UK
Yep your gonna have to slow that down by around .5 sec to get into the 10's smile


Edited by rb446 (07/24/17 04:39 PM)
_________________________
1969 'Cuda 446ci, best 9.96@133.9 in 1990
1971 340 'Cuda, best 11.01@122.8 in 1987

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#2342603 - 07/24/17 04:45 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ccdave Offline
The Ultimate

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1752
Loc: Mopar Country, Mi
Looks like a fun project!!

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#2342618 - 07/24/17 05:14 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ZIPPY Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 15017
Loc: S.E. Michigan


After reading comments about downsizing and losing the shop over the last couple months, it's good to know what you were talking about. Really sounds like a sticky situation and I hope it comes out in your favor!

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#2342663 - 07/24/17 06:32 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
cudaman1969 Online   sleepy
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4514
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By cudadoug
I was really, really, REALLY tempted but don't have the room without infringing on some friends shop space. When you took the ad down, I thought "Good, the temptation is gone". Gutted or no, seems like a good deal for $4900!

How come the windshield bars are cut? Just curious...


The guy that did the cage screwed up the front bars and made the car really difficult to work on. They were too far back and got in the way of everything. It was kind of the last straw for the guy who sold the car to me. He had saved up his money to build a race car but the guy who did the cage ruined the car. So his money was gone and his car was worse off than before. He just gave up and sold out.

I'll have to fix the bar somehow. I haven't figured it all out yet but I think I can cut off the front bars and just run the rear 6 point cage and be legal at 10 seconds. I need to research it a bit more to know for sure. Worst case is the entire cage needs to meet the whiz wheel and I start over with a new 6 point setup. I do not intend to make it 9 second legal.

Just like mine, 10.80s no quicker. Cut out the halo and front down bars. Do you have X side bars? I tied the front frame bar into those. If tens are doable then the down bars can always be put in rather easily. Can you really tell the difference between a 10.20 and a 9.70? Keep it slow and fun to get in and out of, no net, no cert.

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#2342667 - 07/24/17 06:35 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: roadhazard]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24513
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By roadhazard
An honest 700 HP @ 3,000#
You may as well put the 10 point in and get it over with....


Yeah but I'm sure the 727 and Dana 60 are going to suck up a bunch of power and the 700 hp was with cold air for the carb and dyno headers dumping into a very low restriction muffler system.

I also plan on driving the car to the track so that means street legal rear tires and the front suspension has to be up in the air a bit more than a pure drag car.

But yeah, if it ends up around 3000 lbs wet with driver even 600 hp will push it right to the 10.00 line. The car has 4.56 gears with 345/55-15 tires so it will go thru the lights at around 135 mph at 7000 rpm. Should be a fun ride if it all works out. We dyno tested the engine to 7000 rpm so it will pull it. The peak power was around 6800 rpm so it should pull to the stripe. Guess some of it depends on how good the converter is. I don't know much about torque converter so I'll have to study up on them.

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#2342689 - 07/24/17 06:57 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8109
Loc: Rogue River, OR
Please tell me the overhead crane is staying!

Time to move farther out of town I guess.

The duster looks nice, I like white.

Sorry to hear you are losing space your shop always impressed me in various pictures over the years.

I'm thinking the duster needs a stick!

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#2342704 - 07/24/17 07:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24513
Loc: Oregon
It is a manual shift car with the manual shift pedals. I suppose I could pull the Doug Nash out of my Coronet and put it in the Duster!

The Doug Nash is kind of a crude tranny for a street car anyway. But I think that is way more work that I'm interested in. I'll just swap out the 4 speed pedal box for an auto pedal box and be done with it. Besides, if I put the Doug Nash in the Duster I'm sure I'd be busting parts right and left.

A Lenco would be cool but not really in scope.

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#2342891 - 07/25/17 12:26 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Jeremiah Offline
master

Registered: 03/03/03
Posts: 8109
Loc: Rogue River, OR
I have a brand new ST1200 4-speed here for my black Charger...bucket list material for sure.

Something about an appliance white, big tire, 4-speed street-strip Duster speaks to me.

Why do you say the Nash is crude for a street trans? Straight cut gears?

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#2342909 - 07/25/17 02:38 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Jeremiah]
RoadRunnerLuva Offline
master

Registered: 01/31/03
Posts: 2881
Loc: Michigan
Very cool Duster Andy...just sold mine last month, but I am in the works
right now to possibly get another one (72) this time!

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#2342912 - 07/25/17 03:12 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
mopar dave Offline
master

Registered: 01/04/07
Posts: 5866
Loc: flint michigan
Youll get the fever for a lenco after watching steve clukey's duster on youtube. Its a ladder bar car with mostly stock suspension except the chassis engineering shocks. Runs a n/a sb thats close to 800hp now. Car has been in the 8's. Check it out.

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#2342915 - 07/25/17 03:56 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
slantzilla Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 18211
Loc: Park Forest, IL
You just can't go wrong with a Duster.
_________________________
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."

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#2342925 - 07/25/17 05:11 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
MoparBilly Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 4312
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm just going to put it together enough to get it running. It will be very unfinished when I'm finished with it!


Sounds like every project car I've ever owned!!
_________________________
"Livin' in a powder keg and givin' off sparks" 4 Street cars, 5 Race engines

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#2342938 - 07/25/17 07:26 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
DusterKid Offline
super stock

Registered: 01/02/05
Posts: 866
Loc: Keymar, MD
One thing to remember about a roll bar vs roll cage is tubing diameter. With a 6 pt bar the bars (atleast the main hoop) is required to be larger in diameter than if you have a entire cage. I forget the actual tubing size, but if the cage was a kit for a 10 pt cage than cutting out the bars may not make the 6 pt portion legal.

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#2342950 - 07/25/17 08:21 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: DusterKid]
Scott58 Offline
member

Registered: 11/27/07
Posts: 163
Loc: Indiana
I was thinking that too, 1 3/4 min OD for roll bar tubing, 1 5/8 for cages, so if the cage is 1 5/8, it will not be legal as a 6 point.

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#2342982 - 07/25/17 09:51 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
LAD 524 Offline
mopar

Registered: 09/22/05
Posts: 465
Loc: Oz
Real nice lookin Duster Andy, very cool.

Keep us updated with your progress (y)

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#2342995 - 07/25/17 10:08 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: fullmetaljacket]
moparx Offline
Dreaming of implants

Registered: 09/03/03
Posts: 9164
Loc: north of coder
Originally Posted By fullmetaljacket
If anything, older individuals should be the ones in a hurry to finish off projects with limited time left. LOL.

my best friend always says : "our hourglass is quickly running out of sand....." how true, how true. then, he goes on to distract me from my projects to his ! but that's what friends are for, right ? biggrin
beer

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#2343195 - 07/25/17 04:20 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: DusterKid]
cudaman1969 Online   sleepy
master

Registered: 01/25/04
Posts: 4514
Loc: fredericksburg,va
Originally Posted By DusterKid
One thing to remember about a roll bar vs roll cage is tubing diameter. With a 6 pt bar the bars (atleast the main hoop) is required to be larger in diameter than if you have a entire cage. I forget the actual tubing size, but if the cage was a kit for a 10 pt cage than cutting out the bars may not make the 6 pt portion legal.

Might be wrong, don't have rule book in hand right now. Mild steel 1-5/8 x.120 dom, CM .083 x 1-5/8, welded seam type 1-3/4 x .134 wall. Side bars, if X, then 1-1/2 x .065, if single, same as hoop, seat bar 1/14 x .065

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#2343252 - 07/25/17 06:38 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 24513
Loc: Oregon
As far as I can tell if you have a 5 point (or 6 point) roll bar then the main hoop needs to be 1 3/4. That is good to 10.00.

The 8 point cage can be 1 5/8 mtl and is required if you get into the 9's.

The main hoop on this cage is 1 5/8 so I think I'm just going to cut the whole thing out and start over.

Any recommendations for a roll bar kit? I see that Jeg's has them, Art Morrison, Comp Engineering, etc. From what I can tell all of the kits are really crude with no fishmouthing on the tubes or anything like that. It is basically just a bunch of straight tubes in a box plus the main hoop. The rest is DIY.

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