I have a 3600 lb ebody with a mild 360, 9.5 in SMR converter that stalls around 3400 RPM and a 3.23 SG chunk. I have run 13.50s at 102 mph with 28x10 M/T slicks. I needed some new rear tires, so I just opted to get M/T ET SS tires as I don't think the car is quick enough to need more traction.

What's the protocol for a good launch with these? What are pressure? Quick spin at the edge of the water box to clean them off?

Going to Woodburn Sunday and I have never ran on them.

That is all I do in my e body, the ET's don't come with much tread depth to start with so yeah short skid, I run around 18-20lb .

My SRT I pull past the water, back up and stay a foot away from the water. Do a DRY HOP. Stop before the beams, stage, run 1.70s 60foots , womp womp, win. 😎

On a 13 second car, they should dead-hook with no burnout at all. Quick clean up spin is all I'd do. As said, 18 - 20 lbs. let'er rip.

Thanks guys, I'll report back!

I run ~15-17psi with my 295/65-15 MT ET SS's depending in the track. I start the burnout in 2nd and just roll out to haze them. Running 13's just knock the dirt off...

I think these are the same compound as the Pros, and I will say they won't last too long.

I might put 5k miles a year on my car if I get more than 20 passes I got lucky!

Car ran 2.0 60 fts every pass except 1 run was a 2.2 and I am not sure if I launched extra hard or what happened. I checked my tire pressure and the passenger side climbed to 24 psi while the driver side was still 17-18. Definitely need some more time at the track learning how to launch on these.

Car consistently ran 14.0s at 99.2-5 mph. This was shifting from 1st and holding the car in 2nd till the finish line. The car sped up in he afternoon when the temp climbed to a 13.85, I am wondering if it's lean in the cooler air. I dyno tuned it when it was 100 degrees out and that may have effected the A/F ratio.

I am also thinking I may be better off putting the car in drive and letting it shift itself. Even though I hit the shifter around 5800 rpm, it seems to buzz to about 63-6400 before it actually shifts.

I need to find some more dyno time on a cool day. I'd like to fatten up the secondaries and maybe add a touch of timing. If it runs fat on a hot day, oh well.

Depending on the setup, you should be able to pull 2.0 short times on street tires...I will say bias plies are generally more forgiving, and will work well even if the track prep or suspension tuning isn't spot on, while radials are a little more sensitive.


Is it possible that the passenger side of the car was sitting in the sun all day? or perhaps your Suregrip is toast? Are you sure both tires are spinning?

I would play around with launching and shift points until you dial it in.


Regarding weather, in lieu of a weather station, I like to keep an eye on DA. it will at least give you an idea if you picked up MPH due to a change, or due to improved weather.
https://airdensityonline.com/tracks/


Put some new plugs in, makes a pass, and pull it to check for fueling and timing.

when I raced with a stock valve body, I typically had to back off on the throttle pressure linkage to get the car to shift when I wanted at WOT. You might try that next time out. As far as tire pressure, sunshine on a tire will heat the tire up and raise pressure. Always check pressure and make any necessary adjustments just prior to making the pass.

Most of all..... have fun!

Could it be that the passenger tire is spinning much more than the driver side? Do you have a SureGrip? Do you know anything about it's condition?

You might mark your rear tires and have someone video what happens at the hit so that you can analyze it.

I do have a cone type sure grip in the rear, and it's always smoked both tires no problem, but I suppose it could be getting loose.

If I leave it in drive it shifts at 5200rpm but peak power is around 5600 rpm if I remember right, can't find my dyno sheet. Thanks for the tip on line pressure!

A&A Transmissions has a good selection of governors that can help with your shift points. But, they usually introduce split shifts that can be a whole 'nother issue to deal with.

If you have a cone that will hold both tires after all these years, then you are doing better than most of us.

I'll bet that you are blowing one tire off on the hit given that big a difference in tire temps.

I actually have a governor that was fabbed to replicate a max wedge governor, I need to
swap the 5:1 hemi kickdown lever for a 4.2 version I have.

I have a 741 chunk with a clutch style SG and 3.91 gears, but the gears and bearings are making a hell of a racket. I have a access to a 489 chunk with 4.10 gears and a Detroit locker. I may need a conversion joint to make it work