Bingo

Uh, yeah but mine WAS warm on the left... the drivers side.

Not trying to rain on your parade but I was told more then once about the leaky schrader valve when the real source of the leak wasn`t found.

If nothing else, for a low price, I have some cool air for awhile.

Where is this schrader valve located, inside or outside the cab? What does it look like?

Schrader valve is the charging port and it's core. Tire valve stem is a schrader valve of sort.

Thank you, though it was a big gizmo. My 06 was just recharged and it cools on driver side and hot on pass, so I guess it's low charged. Back to the shop.

01 on up we saw a lot of leaks out of the front compressor seal. Hard to detect as it leaks as a vapor and often very slow. After a couple of recharges you can often take brake clean and spray the front of the compressor and you'll often find it drips out in the bright green hue (blacklight/yellow specs) indicating you might have found your issue. Slow leaks on hvac suck!!

After what we both said I surely would have had the freon checked in the system first. Heck the dealer I worked at we got like 1.5 to suck all the freon out which tells how much is in it. Then it also included us adding dye and looking for leaks after we filled the system with the proper amount of freon. The cust price was about $139. for that. If we found no leaks then we had the cust come back in a week or two and we checked to see if we could see any dye and find the slow leak. To replace the shrader valve takes about 20 seconds after the freon is pulled out. Cant say we did not tell you as after what J-body and I said I would have had the system charge checked. I just hope the schrader valve is not your only leak. Ron

The work order showed that they did an evac, tested with the dye, found the leak at the valve then recharged.
Almost 2 weeks now, the A/C still blows cold like it should. If it fails, I will be honest with everyone about it. I was ready to spend the approx $1500 that the independent shop would have charged, IF it was necessary. I was also considering doing the job myself. I would have had the system evacuated and recharged at the shop but at home I would have pulled the dash and air box to replace the doors inside.

It takes no brains to just replace parts instead of diagnosing the problem. It doesn't matter what you go in for, it's what is done nowadays. I hear these horror stories almost everyday from the mechanic next door. He stays very busy because he knows how to figure out what's wrong. He told me the Dodge dealership just went to $152 an hour and got rid of the old guys.

That is terrible. LOOK at the fancy styling and decor of these new car dealerships. It is the SERVICE department and parts department that carries the weight of the store. Vehicle sales are icing on the cake.

5 weeks and counting, the A/C is still working great.

I always tell my family and customers, that on all the newer cars, I advise everyone to turn the BLOWER FAN SPEED to OFF- BEFORE moving any other nobs on your heater- a/c system.

When you have the fan blowing, and you select either hotter or colder, or any other position for your airflow. You slam the doors into their next position. Eventually , they are going to brake, ESPECIALLY if the fan is on HIGH SPEED!! If you turn the fan off 1st, it makes it so much easier on the doors and actuators!!!!!!!

You never use to brake these doors on your old cars, that were controlled by cables, instead of the newer electric actuated doors.

Brilliant engineering!!!

Thank you for that advice. I appreciate the heads up.