A few years back I replaced the original lower control arm bushings. It wasn't easy getting them out but it took some patience. I then pressed in the new set of Moog bushings. Everything went well.

Years have passed. I am restoring my car, and decided to redo the lower control arms. I pressed out the bushings from the arms. Welded in the Firm Feel plates. I had them blasted then I powder coated them. They look great.

I ordered new Moog bushings, and tried to press them in. I first pressed in the pivot shafts into the bushings, then I applied a very thin coat of grease around the bushing and the inside of the control arm. I pressed in the bushing. I had to try to keep them as straight as possible when starting out.

For some reason the bushing shoulder will not go completely flush with the control arms. There is roughly a 1/16" gap between the control arm bushing surface and the bushing shoulder. If I press them further I just end up bending the shoulder. I have tried several sets. With no luck. Do they have to be seated all the way?

Is using a small amount of grease a bad thing? I did use a small amount on the ones I did years ago. I figured it would be easier to take them apart down the road, and easier to press in.

Any suggestions.

I rebuild Mopar LCA's & UCA's as a way to supplement my social security, and a way for me to have a bit of extra income.
You may recognize my work, in the for sale sections in lots of the internet web sites.
Literally have rebuilt hundreds of LCAs in the past decade and beyond.

Anyway, i have found that Moog bushings, have recently changed in the way they are now manufactured.
In the way the rubber is now molded onto the bushing itself.

I had trouble also, with the new bushings, using the new ones that i got.
I figured out a way that worked for me, was to put the bushing end to the wire wheel brush on my bench grinder to remove the excessive molded rubber that they now have on them.
For me that rubber made it lots harder to press the bushing, and shaft, into the LCA.

The next time a do a pair of LCA's I'm gonna try this method.
Press the bushing into the LCA.
Brace the back side of installed bushing with a 9/16 deep well impact socket, and then press the shaft into the bushing.

Gonna see how that works for me.

Kinda, sorta, hard for me to explain, but maybe you can figure it all out.
Jim V.
hemi71x

Hi Jim,

I did noticed that also with the new bushings. The rubber is completely around the surface. Maybe the diameter has also changed. I might try pressing the bushing in first. I actually used a 9/16 deep impact socket to press out the bushings. That work great. Do you use any grease on assembly?

Ive done lots of these as well but have not seen the new bushings you guys are referring to. All I can say is that I have always pressed the bushing into the arm first and then place a deep impact socket inside the torsion bar hex and then press the shaft in. I've never had a problem.

Getting out the outer shell was a pain in the ass

In your first post you said you tried several sets , not getting them to seat tight

You where able to press out these new moog bushings complete as a unit ? Outer shell and all using a 9/16" socket

Moog K791


I was debating using the greasable pins and poly

http://p-s-t.com/c-1176119-suspension-suspension-components-pivot-shafts.html

How I do them

Once the arm is out of the car. Lay them in a press. And with a 5/8" diameter driff ( a deep socket works as well ) I drive the pivot shaft out of the bushing ,,,this usually takes the rubber portion with it. If not, a sharp knife makes quick work of the rubber portion remaining. Leaving the outer shell in place.

I'll fire up the mig welder and run a bead around the inside diameter of the shell maybe an inch down from the top. Take an appropriate size thick washer ( cant remember the size right now ) lay it on top of said welded bead. Again run a bead of weld to keep said washer in place. Basically you weld the washer inside the sleeve .
Flip it over and with the same driff ( or socket ) press the shell out from the backside.

Clean the control arm in your method of choice. ( I glass bead them ) Press the bushing into the arm. Once seated take a 5/8" thick wall socket in the from the backside to support the bushings inner sleeve, then press the pivot shaft in. Viola,,, done.

I use a large tap to remove the outer shell, bought it on ebay for 15 shipped... can't remember the size, but found the info searching on here. So much easier than any other way. I think it's how the factory service manual recommends. I won't do it any other way now, this cuts the time down a lot and no risk of damage.

I finally got around to installing a new set of bushings in my lower control arms. I decided to press the pivot shafts into the bushings first then press the complete assembly into the arm. I applied a very small amount of grease only to the inner arm bushing contact area. I then pressed the bushings into the arm. I reached a point when I could not press them any further. I stopped at that point. There is roughly .035th gap between the bottom side of the bushing lip and the control arm face. I am sure they will be fine. If I tried to press them further I would bend the lip on the bushings. Something has definitely changed with these MOOG bushings. Thanks everyone for the feedback.