I bought an aluminum water pump housing from 440 source for my 440. It was a blemished model because one of the ports is slightly smaller than should be. They say its fine to use as is or if you like, you can dremel it out a hair, like porting heads. What is a good dremel bit to use for this? The 2 stones i have clog up with aluminum real quickly..

I have heard nothing but bad things about those "too small port" 440 Source housings, I would NOT use it even after opening it up...

what have you heard?

use trans fluid on the cutter and it wont clog.

Probably yet another example of Chinese parts crap.

Blaster works even better than atf. Chalk also works wonders if you want to do it dry.

blaster as in PB blaster? I too have one of those discounted housings & I'm for sure gonna hog it out/keep tabs on flow/temp to see if I got a smokin deal or not. EDIT been awhile since I eyeballed it but this thread reminded me that I was maybe gonna open an access hole in the side to get in there then cap it with an NPT plug.

You should buy a course carbide aluminum bit and use candle wax to keep it clean when it starts to clog
Be careful when you start cutting with one of them, they cut a lot in a hurry

Funny how things get twisted around...
440Source tried to clone the Mopar Performance water pump housing, unfortunately in their development tooling/sourcing process nobody checked the internal passages' dimensions....
And the China factory went into full mass production, and 440Source received a full shipment of water pump houisings, once sales started the negative reports started pouring in the Mopar engines were overheating..

Next 440Source was well aware of the problem and gradually modified the tooling by enlarging the internal passages. Unfortunately 440Source was stuck with a pile of the original defective products...

Just my $0.02..

Yep, PB Blaster. I used to use it way back when on aluminum heads. Hopefully whatever comes in the spray cans hasn't changed too much in the last 45 to 50 years. Actually hadn't realized how long ago it was that I was working in New Paris. You might call that the good old days, or not.....

Can anybody show a picture of this too small port and what it should be like?

The easiest way to check is to insert a finger into the lower hose opening, if it is tight then you know. I just sold an MP unit this week, I could almost put two fingers in the opening...

1. Don't use stones on aluminum. Use carbide burrs.
2. A Dremel will take forever and I doubt that you can reach in far enough with any bit that will fit in a dremel. Borrow or buy a die grinder that accepts 1/4" shank bits. Either pneumatic or electric. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Frieght that will work.
3. Several posts have already mentioned what to use on the bits to keep them from loading up with aluminum. Pick one. They all help.
4. Don't use stones on aluminum.
5. Whoever you talked to at 440source is an idiot for suggesting that you could fix this with a dremel.
6. Did I mention, Don't use stones on aluminum.

I buy it by now the gallon with a coupon from advance auto and add a little transmission fluid to it

I "had" one of those pumps. You can open that up to at least double the current size but there is a turn in the port and you'll have a problem going much past it.

For what 440Source paid for those I think they should have scrapped the lot and saved themselves all the bad press.

Whether or not there were any "real life" issues due to the pump themselves is hard to say. You have to figure that someone putting on one of these pumps has done other mods too - which could cause overheating issues.

DON"T use stones on aluminum ! this can't be emphasized enough ! i agree on all the above points.

The 120V AC wired Harbor Freight 1/4 Die Grinder has a flaw in that the plastic will crack near where the four mounting screws get their internal threaded purchase.

If you line up a drill bit correctly and hold it steady, drilling on through the plastic to the metal frame beneath and using a longer screw or all thread as a stud will strengthen the assembly enough to prevent the cracking.

Sugru moldable epoxy might possibly be used to strengthen the plastic in the weak section.

The formerly $100 Craftsman 1/4 die grinder is discontinued but is a worthwhile purchase at a yard sale if the price is low.

If you look at a carbide burr for steel it has a crosscut cutter pattern. If you look at a carbide burr for aluminum it has a single cutter pattern. That's intended to keep the burr from clogging with aluminum. As to using stones? All of the comments are spot on, don't even try.

I should have pointed out the difference between single cut and double cut burrs. Single cut will cut faster and clog less in aluminum but it also makes long very sharp slivers that can ruin your day. Please at least wear good eye protection with either type of cutter. If you have to go to the emergency room with metal in your eye they will show you their grinder. Real close up!

my 440source blem. I pulled it out & checked it & I'm definitely going to have to go in from the side. the block openings are 1&1/8" & these ain't even close to that, one is restricted & the other is real restricted.

Technically the goal is, it should not have less combined CSA then the smallest CSA of the fluid path, and that would for arguments sake, say the radiator hoses or Thermostat? There is no real HP to be found here, just control of temp, correct?

correct. Just want it to cool..

To follow up on this thought, an old steam turbine blader who worked with grinding burrs all the time taught me the metal you need the most protection from is stainless steel. If you get a sliver from carbon steel, it will fester and eventually come out. Stainless steel will not. It will be there until you dig it out. Eye protection, long sleeves, and gloves are your friends.

who sells dremel bits single, not in sets? I need to figure out what bit and find it. Anyone got a picture of this carbide bur that I will be looking for?

How long of a bit will you need?You don't need a lot of rpm if you can use another tool.Are you limited to a 1/16 or a 1/8 shank?

Got a Lowes, or Home Depot, in your area?
Around here, they have a good selection of Dremel products, in the tool area of the store.

if i'm not mistaken, most dremel tools use a 1/8" shank tool. therein is the problem. while ok for light use, if you need to go deep, or remove a lot of material, the 1/8" shank will have a ton of deflection if extended out to go deep, and will more than likely break due to bending and the forces needed to remove a bunch of material no matter what bit is used. you seriously need to consider a 1/4" shank tool. if, by some chance, your dremel has a 1/4" shank, disregard this comment.

what other kind of tool would work that is small enough to get in there though?

your standard air die grinder uses 1/4" shank bits, which are available in a bunch of different lengths. you may have to buy several differing lengths to come from differing angles to get the job done, then, if you want to polish up or make the passages smoother, you can use sanding rolls on a mandrel to finish the job. the mandrels also come in varying lengths.

The one on the left with the cross-cut pattern is the one for steel - will clog up too fast with aluminum. They are available in various lengths and shapes. I like the 6" long ones because they have enough reach to get in where the short ones don't get you very far. Like moparx said, the 1/8 ones have too much deflection so they're generally limited to the 2-3" length.

You guys kill me when you state that a cross-cut burr will clog to fast. For the new-be grinder a double-cut burr is 10 times more forgiving as they won't jump around. slow your burr down and use the items listed above to cool your burr. I probably do about 80% of my aluminum porting with a long shank (6 inch) double cut burr and when finished with my own stuff don't even need a sanding roll to finish the job. Customers like shinny so they get the sanding roll treatment.

For the average guy that wants to do this once in awhile go on Summits website and type in "burr" in the search box. Then buy these two items.

https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-44141.html


https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

pitts, are you using any particular brand of burr? I have found the cross cut ones to be too slow for anything but finish work. Maybe the cheapo ones I have been using are just crap?

I use the heck out of this one from Summit. Its not the best place to get burrs but I usually place 2-3 orders a week so its convenient. I keep a plastic dish with a mixture of WD40 and transmission fluid and dip often. And I know its listed for cast iron but trust me keep it dipped and you will love it. Go slow because if you go like a wildman it will bend. They also offer a shorter one that is easier to handle.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900643

I believe my brother applies either candle wax or bees wax on his porting bits to keep them from clogging up with aluminum. It's a dark gold/brown cube of whatever it is that he's had forever.

And I say....... Give the people what they want!!

(Off topic gratuitous porting pic)

Parafin wax works great also
I bought one of 440 Source BB polished water pump housing, it looks better than the OEM Nopar aluminum housing I have here on the shelf
Me thinks Brandon got the word to his vendors to fix the problems that his customers gave back to him

Sh!t, that ain't shiny! If I can't shave in the reflection, it ain't shiny!

Back on topic...

I use Eastwood Grinder's Grease w/ single- & double-cut burs on aluminum. You spin the bit in the stuff (it's like a tube of wax) and it fills the gaps between the teeth so they don't get clogged with aluminum. Periodically you clean it w/ a wire brush and re-treat it.

Grinder's Grease does NOT grind quite as smoothly as the Mondello porting lube that I dip my aluminum-type cutters into. However, it does a better job of resisting the clogging issue when using ferrous-type bits used on softer metals.

I think Jeg's and/or Summit now carries Eastwood stuff, so you don't have to order direct from Eastwood (and may be able to include it in a large enough order from "The Big Guys" to get free shipping). I bought my tube from Eastwood YEARS AGO, and it's going to need to be replaced at some point in the near future.

what about this set?

burrs

I hate to see people waste their money or spend their money but a 1/8 inch dremel tool is not the right tool for this job.

Those are wood carving bits.

I thought they looked like the ones posted above..back to the drawing board..

The ad claims......



They would probably last long enough to open up that w/p housing.

I'm going to give that a try again on my next aluminum job. I think my problem is I'm not dipping enough and letting the bit run dry.

If you don't do head work often, use a Foredom grinder. Speed control built and uses 1/8 and 1/4 shank bits. It gives you cushion from screwing up a job with better control.Faster learning curve with fewer problems. Dental labs have been using them for years.

I do 100% of my head and intake porting with the higher HP Foredom grinders and the biggest (heavy duty) hand piece. Kinda expensive even used for the guy who isn't going to do this very often. I love mine and will never use anything else again

As for bits,only thing I ever used,don't clog and don't dull,were almost $100 when I bought them,don't know it they are still available.

That's a nice set there Bill...Seems ingersol rand doesn't make much in the US anymore...

I have a feeling a small dremel tool will cause nothing but grief for the material that's needed to be removed from the water pump housing.. As suggested a die grinder size bit will save you some aggravation... Harbor freight has cheapie air die grinders for around 10 bucks..
Here's a pic showing what happens to a normal single flute metal bit in short order when trying to cut aluminum..The two bits on the right side are aluminum cutting bits..There's a stick wax{made by castrol} that you can use to keep the aluminum cutting tools from clogging up I'll include a pic of it..

I got a bit from lowes and hogged out the housing. I think it will work just fine now. The lower left port is the culprit that is too small and i opened it up pretty good. Equal to the other side now..

good to hear positive results ! how much did you have to remove, and how deep did you have to go before you got the housing to your liking ? any pics ?

Hard to say how much, it didnt take long with that bit i used, the shavings accumulated quick..