my 440source blem. I pulled it out & checked it & I'm definitely going to have to go in from the side. the block openings are 1&1/8" & these ain't even close to that, one is restricted & the other is real restricted.

Technically the goal is, it should not have less combined CSA then the smallest CSA of the fluid path, and that would for arguments sake, say the radiator hoses or Thermostat? There is no real HP to be found here, just control of temp, correct?

correct. Just want it to cool..

To follow up on this thought, an old steam turbine blader who worked with grinding burrs all the time taught me the metal you need the most protection from is stainless steel. If you get a sliver from carbon steel, it will fester and eventually come out. Stainless steel will not. It will be there until you dig it out. Eye protection, long sleeves, and gloves are your friends.

who sells dremel bits single, not in sets? I need to figure out what bit and find it. Anyone got a picture of this carbide bur that I will be looking for?

How long of a bit will you need?You don't need a lot of rpm if you can use another tool.Are you limited to a 1/16 or a 1/8 shank?

Got a Lowes, or Home Depot, in your area?
Around here, they have a good selection of Dremel products, in the tool area of the store.

if i'm not mistaken, most dremel tools use a 1/8" shank tool. therein is the problem. while ok for light use, if you need to go deep, or remove a lot of material, the 1/8" shank will have a ton of deflection if extended out to go deep, and will more than likely break due to bending and the forces needed to remove a bunch of material no matter what bit is used. you seriously need to consider a 1/4" shank tool. if, by some chance, your dremel has a 1/4" shank, disregard this comment.

what other kind of tool would work that is small enough to get in there though?

your standard air die grinder uses 1/4" shank bits, which are available in a bunch of different lengths. you may have to buy several differing lengths to come from differing angles to get the job done, then, if you want to polish up or make the passages smoother, you can use sanding rolls on a mandrel to finish the job. the mandrels also come in varying lengths.

The one on the left with the cross-cut pattern is the one for steel - will clog up too fast with aluminum. They are available in various lengths and shapes. I like the 6" long ones because they have enough reach to get in where the short ones don't get you very far. Like moparx said, the 1/8 ones have too much deflection so they're generally limited to the 2-3" length.

You guys kill me when you state that a cross-cut burr will clog to fast. For the new-be grinder a double-cut burr is 10 times more forgiving as they won't jump around. slow your burr down and use the items listed above to cool your burr. I probably do about 80% of my aluminum porting with a long shank (6 inch) double cut burr and when finished with my own stuff don't even need a sanding roll to finish the job. Customers like shinny so they get the sanding roll treatment.

For the average guy that wants to do this once in awhile go on Summits website and type in "burr" in the search box. Then buy these two items.

https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-44141.html


https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

pitts, are you using any particular brand of burr? I have found the cross cut ones to be too slow for anything but finish work. Maybe the cheapo ones I have been using are just crap?

I use the heck out of this one from Summit. Its not the best place to get burrs but I usually place 2-3 orders a week so its convenient. I keep a plastic dish with a mixture of WD40 and transmission fluid and dip often. And I know its listed for cast iron but trust me keep it dipped and you will love it. Go slow because if you go like a wildman it will bend. They also offer a shorter one that is easier to handle.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900643

I believe my brother applies either candle wax or bees wax on his porting bits to keep them from clogging up with aluminum. It's a dark gold/brown cube of whatever it is that he's had forever.

And I say....... Give the people what they want!!

(Off topic gratuitous porting pic)

Parafin wax works great also
I bought one of 440 Source BB polished water pump housing, it looks better than the OEM Nopar aluminum housing I have here on the shelf
Me thinks Brandon got the word to his vendors to fix the problems that his customers gave back to him

Sh!t, that ain't shiny! If I can't shave in the reflection, it ain't shiny!

Back on topic...

I use Eastwood Grinder's Grease w/ single- & double-cut burs on aluminum. You spin the bit in the stuff (it's like a tube of wax) and it fills the gaps between the teeth so they don't get clogged with aluminum. Periodically you clean it w/ a wire brush and re-treat it.

Grinder's Grease does NOT grind quite as smoothly as the Mondello porting lube that I dip my aluminum-type cutters into. However, it does a better job of resisting the clogging issue when using ferrous-type bits used on softer metals.

I think Jeg's and/or Summit now carries Eastwood stuff, so you don't have to order direct from Eastwood (and may be able to include it in a large enough order from "The Big Guys" to get free shipping). I bought my tube from Eastwood YEARS AGO, and it's going to need to be replaced at some point in the near future.

what about this set?

burrs