http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/ATD34...-Tool-3404.aspx

Here is that tool i was talking about.

Did you check the timing on the engine, might be probable cause.

2200 cfm is not going to cut it on a big block. I had a similar problem with my 440 and went down the same road as you, new aluminum rad, new stat, water wetter, new clutch fan, none of it worked.
my problem was at idle. even moving at 10-20 mph it would cool right down. I ended up installing a flex fan. I know everyone is down on them, but they cool very well. I used my old electric as an aux "pusher' on the front of the rad.

I'd say your idea about spal fans is a good one. when it comes to fans, either OEM or Spal.
If you run a clutch setup, the MP one is way too "long" at least it was on my charger. I bought a short one from bob mazzoliniracing.com. it was expensive, @80 bucks, but I didn't know any better. members here found a parts store one that's way less money. I never got around to installing mine, so I don't know how it worked.

What he negelected to mention is the fact thet he is running a 3000 stall converter and the trans may be slippimg. This is with a 25" tall tire and 3.55 gears. He is running 3000rpm at 50 mph. He's turning some high RPMs at 65-70. I checked his airflow and there is plenty of air getting to the radiator but the fan he's using has a lot of blockage coming out. the fan housing has a bunch of close set ribs, about a 1/4" apart, that seem to keep air from coming out of the fan as well as it should. Timing and carb are good. It will sit forever at an idle or run around at city strret speeds without and heating trouble. I recommended that he cut every other rib off the fan housing and see what difference letting the air out did. I also suggested he swap to a more street friendly converter.

Im going to a 26.6" tire this week.

Im also going to go back to a 2000-2200 stall. What specific stall do you recommend?

Yes, the a/c condesor is the original one, I need to get the fins straightened.

BTW it's a very nice charger insde and out.

Im going back to the stock radiator, going to have it gone thru, then putting the stock shroud and clutch/fan back on.

My neighbor just had a good idea- could a clogged heater core cause this?

No. A clooged heater core would just mean no heat inside. Get your rpms down and get the slippage cured. Both of those cause excessive heat.

putting the 2" taller tires on right now. Will see what that does.

Going to start the car when I get back from the tire shop, let it run with the cap off and see what happens.

What will that show other than that the water moves.. You already know you don't have a problem at idle.

to bad u can't pull out the a/c condenser and see if the temps improve..before u start changing it to stock fan and clutch and shroud....

If the problem was at low speed I could see the a/c condenser and trans cooler being the problem but his trouble is at highway speeds which should rule that out.

I just started it up and drove it 2 miles down the street to discount tire and it was on the H when i got there.

why aren't you listening to stumpy?
You are spinning that motor too high for regular highway use. And tranny slippage = major heat.
Either change the converter or the gears. better yet both.

Hey boogieart, tell me then how going to a taller tire isn't going to reduce rpm's on the highway? I will await your reply as I await for my 2" taller tires to finish up being installed.

Every little bit helps, and its not like I can go down to Vatozone and pick a new 727 and 2000 stall torque convertor on a sunday afternoon.

That's true, Hope you have a cool ride home.