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489 Thrust Block Removal #231370
02/21/09 03:03 PM
02/21/09 03:03 PM
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Delmont, Pa.
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SRT8Challenger Offline OP
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I'm in the process of changing over to rear disk brakes on my 69 GTX 8 3/4.
Car has Moser axles and green bearings.
I installed one side and it went great, tried to install the other axle on the other side and it stops about 1/4" from seating.
Guess the backing plates and gaskets must add up to 1/4".
When I installed the green bearing I must have left the thrust block in the center section.
How do you remove the thrust block??
It is a cone style 489 center.
It would be easy to machine the axle length down .125" per side, but they are newer axles and would this voide any warranty with moser??
Should I just pull the pig and get the thrust block out of there?
Thanks for any help guys!
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231371
02/21/09 03:13 PM
02/21/09 03:13 PM
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1_WILD_RT Offline
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Before you decide it's the thrust block fighting you try loosening the nuts holding the other axle in & see if the axle currently giving you problems goes in...If it does than yeah you have to deal with the thrust block...But if it doesn't the most likely you have a slight misalignment of the splines in the side gear & the cone...My picture below is of a clutch but cones have a similar spline design... If thats the problem tighten the nuts on the first axle then loosen the nuts on the problem axle slightly & mount a wheel with a couple lugs, you don't need the brake drum... Now grab the wheel & try twisting/rocking the wheel while pushing inward...You should feel the axle move inward if/when the splines align...

FWIW my understanding is with the clutch style you need to remove the thrust pins but the cone style the block doesn't need to be removed...

5042006-trac-loc005.jpg (62 downloads)
Last edited by 1_WILD_RT; 02/21/09 03:17 PM.
Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #231372
02/21/09 03:49 PM
02/21/09 03:49 PM
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Delmont, Pa.
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If I loosen the other side she goes right in.
Seems I can seat either side but not both!
The pin must float?
Can the pin be removed with a strong magnet on the eand of a stick or axle, or does something hold the darn thing in?
Thanks!! I was soo hoping you were right!!

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231373
02/21/09 03:54 PM
02/21/09 03:54 PM
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Ansonia, CT
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CJK440 Offline
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It floats. The spacer on the clutch suregrips is held by a pin thats peened over on one end. You are going to need to pull the chuck and drive a punch to drive out the pin and the two halves of the spacer block will come out of their respective sides.


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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: CJK440] #231374
02/21/09 03:59 PM
02/21/09 03:59 PM
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Unfortunately he has a cone style suregrip & to remove the spacer on that requires completely disassemly of the third member...There is an actual block with an oversized hole throught it that floats on the cross shaft.... You might wanna reconsider trimming the axles...

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231375
02/21/09 04:05 PM
02/21/09 04:05 PM
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Sk. Canada
RemCharger Offline
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The clutch style has removeable thrust buttons.. You have the cone style with the trust block. I am not sure if you can just remove it and run without it...
Hate to say it but the cone style aren't known for high hp longevity. But if you are gonna make this setup work I'm thinking you're best off machining the axles down to the correct length. I'm in the same process right now , and I see theres another thread about it, But hes in my boat with the thrust BUTTON deal..
What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231376
02/21/09 04:10 PM
02/21/09 04:10 PM
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Quote:


What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...




You want the axles as long as possible so they have full contact with the splines...The picture I posted above shows there are two sets of splines so while you know your gonna have full contact with the first (outer)set the second (inner) set sometimes strip or twist on the axle...

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231377
02/21/09 04:15 PM
02/21/09 04:15 PM
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Delmont, Pa.
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Arrrr....
Thanks guys, not what I wanted to hear!
I measured mine and I need .210" total. I would go to .250" to give the green bearing clearance, I would not want to side load the green type bearings. I'm sure if I cut the axles things would work, but if I ever had an axle problem, Moser would blame me??
Good luck with your set up too, let me know how and what worked for you!
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231378
02/21/09 04:25 PM
02/21/09 04:25 PM
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RemCharger Offline
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Hey thanks.
Now call me a genius or whatever, but I was reading over your post again and it hit me..... Why can't you just put a 1/4 inch spacer between the flange and the axle mounting plate?
To be sure, you could measure the backing plate , but that is likely what it is.






Edit*--Even better yet, just cut the center out of your old backing plates!!!

Last edited by RemCharger; 02/21/09 04:28 PM.
Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231379
02/21/09 04:34 PM
02/21/09 04:34 PM
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I thought about that...
The backing plates were .125" thick plus add for the gaskets.
I could use the old retaining plates (.125") as a spacer.
This would make the wheels space out further though.
The rotor hat will also move the wheel out an additional .25" per side and I don't want to rub the inner fender lip??
Nothing is easy!! Guess going faster and stopping faster is never that easy
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231380
02/21/09 05:15 PM
02/21/09 05:15 PM
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RemCharger Offline
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Well if you have to move the wheels in then I guess your cuttin the axles. If you had a good machinist he should be able to duplicate the finished product, and no one would be the wiser....

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231381
02/21/09 05:30 PM
02/21/09 05:30 PM
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I think the no heat treat on the ends would show??
I may just go the machine route next week, I can take them to work and do them!
I would pull the pig, but if I have to also dis-assemble the center section to get the thrust pin out, then I would rather shorten the axle!
Are you switching to disks also? What brand?
Thanks,
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231382
02/21/09 05:55 PM
02/21/09 05:55 PM
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RemCharger Offline
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I don't think you can just run it without the thrust block... Kinda like running your engine without a main cap
I'm not putting discs on, I'm converting from stock axles to after market for the 10.99 deal, and I know a guy with e body axles that I'm considering buying, which I'd have to chop like an inch off of so I'm not surewhat I'm going to do..
Some extra money would sure make things simplier...


Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231383
02/21/09 06:17 PM
02/21/09 06:17 PM
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Rio Linda, CA
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The thrust block serves no purpose other than a spacer, remove it and it won't be missed.


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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231384
02/21/09 06:19 PM
02/21/09 06:19 PM
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Yes, I'm in the same boat, takes money to make change!!
If stock type adjuster, you need the thrust pin or button, If Green bearing type I don't think you want anything that would or could interefere with any side load.

I hope that someone will correct me if I am wrong here!
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: John_Kunkel] #231385
02/21/09 06:33 PM
02/21/09 06:33 PM
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Quote:


The thrust block serves no purpose other than a spacer, remove it and it won't be missed.


There you go!

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: John_Kunkel] #231386
02/21/09 06:48 PM
02/21/09 06:48 PM
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Thanks John!
Can you tell me what I would need to do to remove the block.
I don't mind the center chunk removal, but to dis assemble the center section was a pain. I set it up will all ne parts and backlash/pinion depth the first time, but have no desire to do it again.
Thanks,
Ed

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: RemCharger] #231387
02/21/09 07:07 PM
02/21/09 07:07 PM
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Rem, are you going with the original style tapered bearings or the Green type bearings?

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231388
02/21/09 07:09 PM
02/21/09 07:09 PM
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Polson, MT
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Moser is notorious for cutting 8 3/4" axles too long.

Normally, you must disassemble the cone sure-grip to remove the thrust block. You could probably cut the block out with a torch inserted into the window in the carrier, however.

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: SRT8Challenger] #231389
02/21/09 07:17 PM
02/21/09 07:17 PM
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RemCharger Offline
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I would like to get the green bearings. I figured if I cut the axles real close (1/16") I wouldn't have to pull the thrust buttons. I've already got lots to do before the race season begins...
Its going to be your average everyday all steel 10 sec 383 67 Charger.

Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal [Re: DoctorDiff] #231390
02/21/09 07:22 PM
02/21/09 07:22 PM
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Thanks Doc. I think I'll take the axles to work on Monday and trim them a 1/8" each. Then all should work fine.
The rear has made no noise since I set it up (3.91) and I did not want to mess with it!
Thanks!
Ed

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