What the heck!?I have it down to the crank with pistons in and it only takes 28 ft lbs to turn it.I noticed it after removing the cam timing chain.I need to hold up here and ponder this.This does not change that the bearing is burned!!!

1 of the 1st things to do is put the #1 main on and see if it is tight again.I noticed something else,The TC nose has the paint off of it and I wonder if the trans is pushing on the crank making the thrust tight in turn making the engine hard to turn by hand.I will get to checking the thrust bearing and the back of it after checking the engine good.I am open for ideas on the order to check things!!!!

I am going to go ahead and check the thrust bearing being that I cant get the #1 in to check it without lifting the crank.

Some good news is all the rods,pistonbores look good.1,2,3 main have just a littler heat in them on the block side and not over the oil hole.I will have the crank measured to start and to be honest I think the .001 under bearings will do the trick but we will see.
Thanks for listening.ttyl
ps:The thrust was .006 with a dial on it.

My eagle crank mains measure 2.7475 where my old crank measures 2.745.I have a summit dial bore to measure the block but I wanted to ask about the block temp when measuring should it be 65/70*F?

Room temp sounds good to me

The main bearing should measure 2.750 correct?I have used the gauge on the piston bore but not the main.

I have my block at Victory engines in Cleveland.He measured the crank for me at 2.750" so not much room to the bearing.He will align hone ther block and we have some undersize king bearings on the way.I am making some progress.

Good luck.

The bearing # is MB5116HP.001 The tech on the phone said the main over bore will take a couple of thou.[crush] and to just watch for fretting on the back of the bearing when going big.

Can't beat the cost of an eagle crank. The first thing to do with them is take them to a good grinder and have them turned .01/.01.

I still have a chance to mess it up.