You say its a "stock clutch" which is a Borg and Beck. If the pedal doesn't come ALL THE WAY up on its own then either its out of adjustment or there's something binding.

You should have ONLY 3/4" to 1" of free play in the pedal. Any more is the reason the pedal won't come all the way up. Adjust at the fork rod. What this does is the pressure plate now moves the pedal back past the OTT spring and the small spring on the fork now has enough ommph to pull the pedal to the top.

Then you have too much free play in the pedal. Forget about the free play measurement at the pedal and set it at the fork like the book says.

You need to adjust the clutch with the pedal all the way up. The over center spring should hold it there. Then adjust the clutch linkage so the bearing has no more than a half inch movement before it contacts the forks. Then when you push on the pedal it should only move an inch or two before you can feel the bearing engage the forks and release the clutch. That's a good starting point for final adjustment once the car is running.

Climbed back under the car...
If..... ya shove clutch pedal down. And release. The throw out bearing rest on the fingers of pressure plate
If I grab the pedal by hand and pull it up 2 inches or so. Until it rest on the bump stop. Then it does not. For the life of me I can't fig out why the pedal does not fully come up

I took 7 pics of it the setup

I took another look at your pics and it looks like the "Z" bar may be binding in this pic.



The nut on the right looks off plane to me. Also, take a close look and make sure its not rubbing on the exhaust header. It looks awful close in the pic.

It's not in bind anywhere. Before I put the rod from.
Z bar/clutch fork. On The assembly moved very easy by hand

I saw what "centerline" is seeing when I first posted those shots BUT the ball stud on the bellhousing is in the right plane so if anything I thought that the frame bracket was possibly welded on too far forward and crooked.

I you want to email those new pics I'll resize and post them.

I just posted them on facebook

Thank you. I sent them to your email

It seams that there is a hole on the z bar and that is where I put the spring. Was told it should connect to the bellhousing. So I went to the shop and moved it to the bellhousing. But it didn't help any
Stanton. Thank you I sent the new pics to your email

I can adjust the rod more towards the end but the t.o. bearing will touch all the time even if pedal is all the way up.

Update...again lol I placed the pedal so with little movement will break over on its own (in limbo)
And adjusted the rod till I heard the pedal brakes over
I adjusted it more while using some heavy paper between finger and t.o. bearing to make sure wasn't touching.
I got it where it would come all way up on its own. But after shoving pedal down 5-6 times notice each time it got a little less closer to the top...my thoughts on this is the shoulder of the new nut working into the new washer
It does make a hard thud/clunk when the pedal hits the stop. Is something missing? I know it don't do/sound like that when new lol

There is a rubber on the stop - right? A "thud" should be noticeable, after all, the OTT spring has just kicked in !!

Keep in mind the purpose of the OTT spring. It is there as an "assist" to depress the clutch BUT it (the spring) can't be engaged at all times or it would hold the pedal down enough to hold the TO bearing in contact with the PP. So when the pedal gets back up about 1" from the top the spring crosses a threshold whereby it now pulls the pedal UP - with quite a bit of force (if you've ever tried to stretch one of those buggers you know what I'm talking about). So yeah, there's going to be a "thud".

Maybe it's just louder cause there is no int.in the car

Very likely. Didn't get the photos - you send them to the same email as last time (with a _ instead of a - , right?)

I took this pic before tearing the car down. This shows where the return spring is attached to the bellhousing. The adjustment rod is the short version since the car originally had a diaphragm style pressure plate.