If it came off the pivot you'd know it ... it would flop up and down as well as back to front. You could probably even stick your finger in and feel it.

There are also different height fork stands in the bell housing. I had one crack. IT kept bending. Different length forks as well. Call Dan at Brewers he'll straighten you out.
Doug

Well unless someone has one can measure to compare to mine. It's just a crap shot if I have a part that's not right

1) is the pedal coming all the way up?
2) is there roughly 1" of pedal travel before the clutch disengages?
3) do all the components "feel" right? (nothing's just flopping around anywhere)
4) can you push the clutch pedal right to the floor (or very close to it)?


If the answer to those is "yes" I'd order a longer threaded rod and be done with it. Everything "looks" fine in the photos. You might even be able to still get the longer rod at your local Chrysler dealer.

1) on its own no. Bout half way up. But you can take and pull up by hand pretty easy. It's not in a bind.
2).......
3)nothen really feels like it's not really connected
4) after it gets past the over center it goes towards floor and rest (on its own) bout same heigth as gas pedal. You can shove the pedal rest way to floor and at that point feels like a normal clutch setup

I had exactly the same problem. What is causing this is the difference between a Diaphragm and Borg and Beck style pressure plate and associated throw out bearing.

If you're running a Borg and Beck you'll need a longer adjusting rod for proper clutch movement. Right now the bearing isn't contacting the pressure plate until the clutch pedal is near the floor simply because the pressure plate engagement rods aren't in the same location as a diaphragm pressure plate would be. Lengthening the adjusting rod will allow you to move the resting location of the bearing closer to the pressure plate levers so clutch disengagement will happen closer to the top of clutch pedal movement.

When I swapped to the Borg and Beck style I set up the clutch rods exactly how they were before the swap. I used pics I took before disassembly to verify everything was replaced exactly. After noticing the problem with the clutch pedal I removed the return spring on the throw out fork and I could move the fork rearward quite a bit before the bearing contacted the pressure plate and from that I could see the solution is a longer adjusting rod.

^^^^ Ding ding ding we (may) have a winna. It does make sense since nothing in the pics appears out of order/& the descrip sounds copacetic & that there is a "travel" issue somewhere.

Ok. Thank you. IL have to try to make a rod set up for it

Hope you get the problem solved. Keep us posted.

Iv came up with a rod that someone made longer. So I get a chance il put it on and see how it acts

I use the Mopar stock A body SB V8 clutch rods in all of my B body cars, their a lot longer stock

That is a great idea!

Ok I finally got to mess with it again...
I had a old rod that someone welded up. But it was 2 inches to long
I cut it. Re welded it
Made huge differance. If I can take the slack out of the rod to pedal il be good..
So i have a question. Can I adjust the lower rod pushing the throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers/arms to take the slack out of the top rod or should the bearing not touch while pedal at rest?

Bearing should not touch - that's pretty much what the 1 inch of pedal free play does along with the spring on the fork.

Agreed. The bearing should NOT touch the forks during rest. Quickest way to wear out the bearing. There also needs to be a little slack in the system. My preliminary setting is to have the bearing touch the forks after about an inch or two of pedal travel. Once the car is in running condition you can adjust from there to have the clutch start to engage at a point where it "feels" right.... usually when the pedal is a little less than half way up from the floor.

It's not touching right now. I can pull the pedal up up bout a inch and it will break over with the over center spring. That's why I was asking
The pedal now is up off the floor like it should be

There's something terribly wrong if you have to pull the pedal up at all !!

Do U have the properreturn spring on the fork down below...
Note the OE spring has certain tension specs that many universal springs don't have..
On my 70RR I had a similar problem replaced the subject spring with the rite one all is well..

Just my $0.02...

Yes the correct spring is on the pedal

If I shoved the clutch in and released it. The pedal would look normal I guiess. But I can grab it with my hand and pull a inch or so and feel the pedal go over center