I put the 440 back in the 71 charger. After took out to get the car painted
There is no carpet in the car and the clutch pedal has about the same amount of travel as the gas pedal.......
It has new clutch/pressure plate. New adjustment rod.
I could turn the nut on it by hand almost out to the end of the rod.
How much travel should the pedal have?
(Car is 71 charger)

From the top of the pedal travel to the floor as far as clutch pedal travel. Mopar are horrible on the clutch design, engineering and functioning Most have to be adjusted so the clutch starts to disengage at the top of the pedal travel to get the clutch disc to have free play between it and the flywheel and pressure plate

I ain't a clutch/stick guy but I think you want ~3/4" freeplay at the clutch pedal when you first press on it till it "contacts" and iirc a better/more accurate is a certain amt of clearance between the disc/'wheel with pedal depressed. and you would want that linkage coming off either of the bellcrank arms to be in a straight plane of movement.

That's way too much adjustment on the rod. The nut DOES turn by hand though. The slotted side of the nut should be in towards the washer.

There should be a washer and another kind of cone-shaped washer between the fork and the nut.

- do you have the plastic bearings in the z-bar?
- is the fork clipped to the pivot in the bell
- is the fork clipped to the throwout bearing?

Is this a stock bell or scattershield?

When I had the motor/tranny in before paint. I do not remember it being like this. I pulled them out as a unit. Z bar is new. All new bushings. Stud. Spring clips. All new and installed
The rod from pedal to z bar is level. As to why I thought was a stupid question on the install when put back in
I don't have the car with me (should got to Brung back home today but didn't happen)
Anyone have a 4 gear 3rd Gen b body. That can possibly measure from bottom of the clutch pedal pad to the carpet for me ?

I guess you could put the Z bar in wrong and it would some grief. I think one arm is a bit longer than the other so that would cause the screw to be at its limit.

I don't know about your's but the arm next to the bell on my '69 z-bar has two bends in it. Its wider than the other arm and it has holes for the bushing clip and a hole for the tension spring from the fork.

A couple of points..
1. Pedal free-play
The crucial spec is that the throwout bearing must be pulled back about 0.125" from the pressure plate. A common mistake is to adjust freeplay up top @ the pedal, the problem with this doesn't take in consideration of any worn linkage parts.
2. Z-bar
It is easy to confuse between Z-bars as more than 1 may be the same width but have different tab positions for the adjusting rod. The crucial point is to use a Z-bar so that its tab position permits the adjusting rod to push the fork in a linear motion, so that the adjusting rod should be parallel to the bell housing.


Just my $0.02...

If I get to bring car home tomorrow...IL try take a pic or 2

Ok. Car is home. So i got to looking at it. And took a few pics....if I can get them to laod?..
Seams the pedal was over centered. Pulled up on it and is where it should be. But...... why is it not coming all way back up on its own?
It's like when you don't have the clutch pedal hooked up and you shove on it. It will smack the floor. The clutch/pressure plate is only thing keeping from hiring floor. It's still breaking over center
Pedals spring and shifter all came out of a bench 4 speed 3rd Gen mopar car (that's what I wanted)
Well my pics are to big to load

Is the over center spring installed under the dash? Also is the return spring installed on the clutch fork?

So there's definitely a problem somewhere ... the pressure plate should have plenty of pressure to pull the pedal back close to the top. The overtop spring's purpose is mainly to assist when depressing the clutch with a B&B style pressure plate - it will also snap the pedal to its stop as long as there's no binding anywhere.

Possibly the wrong clutch rod (pedal to z-bar) - too short.

email me your pics and I'll resize and post them.
stanton_giles@hotmail.com

Is the new clutch a diaphragm pressure plate? Some (most) diaphragm pressure plates need to have the over-center spring removed. And be sure the fork return spring is installed, they often go missing.

Thank you I sent so let me know if they went through
How long over all should the rod from pedal to z bar be and il measure mine

Here are photos of toplesscuda's set up.

What kind of clutch?? Its been many years but if I remember right I had to take the over center spring out to get the pedal to come up on a centerforce diaprham style

From the photos there's nothing that appears to be wrong !!

Well what the crap ?lol

You still haven't answered the question....is it a diaphragm pressure plate?

Maybe you just have the wrong adjuster. If you go to Brewers site there are like six different kits and some adjusters are visibly longer than others.

It's stock clutch/pressure plate like what came in it
Buddy of mine was wondering if it came off the pivot inside the bellhop sing. But I will have to pull tranny cause can't see to tell if it did other wise