Will go try again right now - i have about an hour to work it

I am visualizing a multi-ton hydraulic floor jack with some type of arrangement with a chain to strap the block to the jack,,,or some other mechanism to make it immovable,,,and a very stout metal (metal pin or some such) held against the pistons from top or bottom. And the other end against the jack pedestal.

Something like placing block onto a hydraulic press and pressing them out. Have no idea how to manipulate and manage a block of several hundred pounds onto a press,,,,perhaps possible using a cherry picker,,,or perhaps the heavy duty jack idea may do it. Under extreme pressure and a few well placed slams with a big hammer may work things loose.

As I said, just visualizing.

Don't give up.

Likely you have checked out all the heavy duty liquid wrench type products. There are a wealth of them. I have often read of auto transmission fluid mixed with acetone that some swear by.

Sounds like a trip to the ER just might be in the mix here.

I have and idea that might work, as with bearing races that you can't drive from behind for one reason or another.

Drill a large enough hole in the center of the piston to get a hacksaw or Sawsall in and carefully work your way to the perimeter of the piston, use a hand file or hacksaw blade to do the last few thousands so you don't mar the cylinder walls.

With the piston's integrity thus diminished, it may free up the circumference and release itself??

Good luck, I'd really like to get my nose in there with you as I love a challenge, Joe

I like the idea of the bottle jack sitting on a block of wood across the bores. That is the easiest and safest method I've seen in this thread.

It uses the strength of the piston by pulling on the piston pin.

Now that's funny, the idea not if it actually happened.

OK - I really actually beat the living hell out of one. It moved about a 1/16 - or at least thats what it looks like between the rod and crank. Probably not a great question but it there a way of cutting the connecting rods without destroying the cylinder walls ? If I can remove the crank I can hit these right

The pitting on the lower walls is horrible. This might all be a waste O time.. will post a pic

This, and what Andy said earlier.

I've had pistons that I could not remove with a 2 ton hydraulic jack but I could beat out.

If you have not hit it hard enough to bust out the piston top, you have not hit it hard enough. You have to use a sledge hammer, unless you are a really big guy that know how to swing a 3 lb hammer.

I have used an acetylene torch to cut the connecting rods on a 383 to get it apart.

Good bar. Bigger hammer. You will get it.

Wont lye dissolve the aluminum? 55 gallon drum with the block in it for a week or two...or more

You guys are overthinking this. It isn't brain surgery or rocket science. Take a small steel rod or a piece of pipe and a 4# beater, go from the bottom and take the tops out. The rest will follow.

Got my pistons out today. Here is carnage.

As long as you did not hurt the cylinder wall you may be able to use that block....of course aluminum melts at 1270 degrees, so you could have just melted them and had some puddles of aluminum to play with or maybe make some new pistons...

Once the tops were knocked out the pistons came out real easy.

Cylinder walls look perfect.

A voice, crying in the wilderness.

Thats great and I see no signs of blood on the floor.

Nice batch of.... destroyed pistons ya got there.

Yes it's a miracle as one time I lost a finger tip pulling a motor out of a car by myself.


Think I will keep one around for a conversation piece and when they asked what happen I'll just say too much NOS and blew the top of piston off.