Re: Fiberglass Hood Question
[Re: GregY]
#2291562
04/21/17 02:07 PM
04/21/17 02:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,481 Outside
thedriver
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,481
Outside
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Is there a scoop? What model car?
1973 challenger Dana. 4 speed. Low deck.
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Re: Fiberglass Hood Question
[Re: Adam71Charger]
#2291991
04/22/17 09:39 AM
04/22/17 09:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,194 Rochester, New York
GregY
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,194
Rochester, New York
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Thanks for all of the replies, doesn't seem to be definitive way to go.
The hood probably wont see more than 105 mph, and most of the time no more than highway speed.
I hate to save $100 buying the lightweight hood, then spending $100 on bracing, dzus fasteners, etc., so I am kind of leaning toward getting the bolt on hood and just pinning it down.
Most of the time I will be taking it on and off will be in my garage, I am not too worried about how difficult that will be.
If there are any more opinions, send them my way!
Thanks.
Greg
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Re: Fiberglass Hood Question
[Re: GregY]
#2292072
04/22/17 01:18 PM
04/22/17 01:18 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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If you were getting younger, I would agree with your solution. Anything lightweight has numerous advantages you are well aware of. The issue most others have mentioned, really is not tough to resolve. Adding anything metal to reinforce a light lift off hood seems awfully counter productive. The first solution I would do would be figure out where added stiffness is needed, figure out how much depth you have under the hood for a foam (urethane) gusset, shape it to fit (depth is much more useful then width, within reason) resin/epoxy it in place, laminate at same time a layer or two of suitable fabric, FG/CF over the foam gusset, sand off loose/sharp edges when hard, and you still have a lightweight hood, that is now really stiff, and still has only 4 pins. Its a lot less then $100. A downside is whatever shape the hood is flexed to when adding the gusset(s), will be the shape when its sets. I prefer epoxy, it contracts/distorts much less when it cures, and is stronger, but more expensive.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Fiberglass Hood Question
[Re: GregY]
#2292732
04/23/17 02:47 PM
04/23/17 02:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,749 A collage of whims
topside
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,749
A collage of whims
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OK, since like I said, I have both types of hoods... Race hood has styrofoam glassed into underside but is still kind of a noodle, which is why it sagged around its perimeter; support was added to the car (not the hood) and in total weighs ounces. Street (also 'glass) hood is lighter than OEM steel but being thicker and with the OEM-appearing underside bracing, it's more than double the weight of the race hood. Both have 6-pack scoops. My racecar's hood is pin-on, street car uses hinges & latch but also has 2 pins at front. Street car doesn't use hinge springs, requires prop rod but still easier to deal with than the pin-on. For a '71 Charger, if you're good at picking up a 4x8 sheet of thin plywood from the narrow end and lifting it, then you'll be fine...but I suggest you try it before spending $500-$700...
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