Hello my name is Jason, I have a 78 440 that Ive had machined and have bought majority of parts for that needs to go together. Maybe some parts arent what you guys would use but they are bought and paid for so they are what I have to use.

Tools are not an issue for me.

I have been a body and paint guy for a little more than 30 years.

I would like to put this engine together and do everything I can along the way to take an opportunity to learn something. I dont just want to do the things the various books say to do to successfully put it together. I can do all that on my own pretty much.

I want to go the extra mile, to get everything I can out of the engine cause it would be a good/interesting learning experience for me.

I have a small block 340 as well in the works over on for a bodies only website and there have been a few guys there that have basically gone above and beyond to show me things.

Im wondering if there might be someone over here that would be willing to do the same?

Assuming I can load pictures onto this site I would be asking a TON of questions as I went along. It would take alot of time for someone to answer these questions, Id like to have the engine put together while Im still able to enjoy it and so I understand what Im asking.

Lastly Im a hands on guy, I have a little bit of trouble understanding direction so step by step directions are what work best for me. I wouldnt mind throwing someone some money via paypal as we went along for their time.

No hard feelings is there is no-one here that would have the time though. Thanks for reading

What kind of truck is this engine going in? And what are your plans/use for the truck? Towing, drag racing, hiway travel, to and from work?

Tom, I've read the OP's post. (Welcome OP!!!!). And have the same questions, but how do you know it's going into a truck?
And to the OP, are you looking for power, reliability, MPG, lowest cost, or some kind of compromise of all four?

You will need to list the specific parts that you have that will be going into the build, that will be. HUGE factor in the advice you get.

I figure it MIGHT be going in a truck, because the thread is in the 'truck forum'.

Well there YOU go! Sharp as a tack old man! I don't pay enough attention to the specific forums.

Well played Tom.

What are your parts? I put together a 440 for my Ramcharger. 1975 block, forged crank, 9.75:1 forged pistons, ported 906 heads,1.6:1 roller rockers, 282/484 MP cam, performer RPM manifold and a Holly 800 DP.

DUI HEI distributor, Hooker headers, 2500 stall convertor and a built 727.

Looking back I would have changed some stuff but it runs really good. Pick a smaller cam and lower stall convertor.

Thanks for asking, it is going in an 86 W-100 that I have painstakingly restored to very nice condition.

Plans with it are to take it too shows/drive occasionally. Little highway travel.

Id like to build the truck to sound nasty and still be able to pass my daily driver.

Id like to not just throw in one of them thumper cams and call it a day, Id like to have that everyone turns their head to look sound but also know that Ive done everything I could to enhance the performance of the machine.

I have a 67 Falcon that has a 289 in it build by a local legend, it sounds nasty, revs quick and while its prob. not gonna break any sound barriers is quick enough to accelerate to satisfy my needs.

Not looking for a tire peeler, its a 6000 pound 4 wheel drive truck and Id have to buy the tires even if it could/would. Im just looking to enhance anything I can and have a real head turner.

Sound, Power, reliability, not lowest cost but Im not rich either.

I am not at my shop today so cant make a complete list maybe but Ill do my best now

1- 440 RV block, bored .060 over
2- Speed=Pro/TRW Forged 6 pack pistons
3- ARP rod/main/head bolt
4- Lunati cam/lifters specs below
Advertised Duration
262 int./268 exh.
Advertised Exhaust Duration
268
Advertised Intake Duration
262
Assembly Lubricant Included
Yes
Basic Operating RPM Range
1,400-5,700
Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappet
Camshaft Gear Attachment
3-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible
No
Duration at 050 inch Lift
220 int./226 exh.
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
226
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.494 in.
Gaskets Included
No
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
220
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.475 in.
Lifter Style
Hydraulic flat tappet
Lifters Included
Yes
Lobe Separation (degrees)
112
Locks Included
No
Pushrods Included
No
Quantity
Sold as a kit.
Retainers Included
No
Rocker Arms Included
No
Timing Chain and Gears Included
No
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.475 int./0.494 exh.
Valve Springs Included
No
Valve Springs Required
Yes
Valve Stem Seals Included
No


Maybe this cam isnt gonna give me the sound I want? I dont know much, just researching the best I can and this one seemed like a good torque cam. Im open to saving this cam for another build if its no good.
5- Stock crank/connecting rods turned and balanced with cast damper
6- Here is where I prob (pretty sure ) messed up

Heads= I ordered a set of cast iron heads from aerohead=Indy cylinder head. Specs below
2.19 X 1.88- 3/8 Stainless Steal Valve Stem
452 casting
86-88cc Open Chamber Design


I dont know what Im gonna do with these heads, I didnt know any better and its done. I have a set of Pro-maxx aluminum heads in my cart at Summit. From what Ive read they are good heads for what is paid and for what Im trying to do.
Ive only to click the buy button after one more person tells me the cast heads were a waste of money

I think I got 700 bucks in them so its not the end of the world, I have another 440 I can maybe use them on.
7- Edelbrock performer RPM intake
8- Pete Jackson NOS gear drive
9- Edelbrock 750 carb
10- I bought an NOS Mopar performance dist....Id like to run it I guess with my MSD box although I know little about anything with this as well
That may be it so far
Ive got bearings as well, King premiums I believe amd Hastings rings if memory serves me

Id like to post pictures as I go along with the assy and have someone answer a bunch of dumb questions and some maybe not so dumb

Im going for the highest compression I can run on pump gas, Ive read 10.1 but then I read you can get a much higher depending on cam choice and how its set up. I want that compression noise out the exhaust ( I plan to run open headers BTW with downspouts into the pavement )

Id really like to know more aout the 6.1 roller rockers, I have rollers on my falcon.

I bought a NOS Mopar performance dist as well BTW

sounds like your on right track.pro maxx aluminum heads would be much better then cast heads.pump gas friendly.also eddy 750,i personally never had good luck with those,eddy thunder series a much better carb

10:1 compression ratio aluminum heads 9.5:1 iron heads is the rule of thumb. You can go higher with a cam that has more overlap. If I remember my compression tests showed 186 psi give or take a few psi on all holes.

My truck sounds really good with short pipes to 45 degree angles out the sides with Super Trapp mufflers. I was going for the TA and AAR style exhaust.

No detonation on premium pump gas with 21 degrees initial and 17 degrees mechanical advance.

I would stick with the iron heads and those 6 pack pistons are heavy.

Crane 1.6:1 roller rockers make the .484" valve lift cam into a .516" lift cam. Really don't recall how much, if any, it affects duration.

What mods does it take to install these and what are their benefits.

Can you tell me more about the set-up. So this is only a roller rocker system not a full roller cam deal? Anything you can tell me would be more than I know. Thanks

EDIT: Ok so if Im not mistaken the point is to get the valve to open further to allow more air/fuel to enter, is that correct? So it sounds like your gonna have to have a piston that either pretty far down in the hole or some pretty big valve reliefs so wouldnt you be sacrificing compression?

Crane roller rocker kit. New shafts, roller rockers and hardware. Pushrods openings need some grinding due to a change in pushrod angles.

Yes more valve lift. My pistons were custom made Aries slugs. Flat tops with 2 valve reliefs and zero deck clearence, level with block deck.

Looks like the Cranes are no longer made. Comps or Harland Sharps are the only ones.

That cam won't give you the sound you're after. IMO it's really not a good choice for you. It's too mild to really have that rumpety rump sound, yet it's too aggressive to really be good in a 6000lb 4x4. I ran the lunati cam that was one step higher than this one, IIRC it was 226/234 @050 on a 110LSA. It had a small amount of lope and even with open headers it didn't sound impressive. In a big vehicle like this, I don't think I would be looking to squeeze out ever last drop of compression either if you don't want detonation problems.